Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[brianbr]

I'm feeling kind of dumb... I can't tell where the bracket that you flipped around is in the pics... And I suppose this means the bumper cover has to come off... Again.

No worries, it's the top 10mm bolt on the washer reservoir. You should be able to access it through the fender splash shield. Or maybe even by removing the radiator cover

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[Stang 19]

On mine the neck isn't even round. I got the cap to stop leaking by using a hose clamp on it though. Just looks like crap that way.

Edelbrock sent me another complete unit, but I expect it to leak also. Wish they would upgrade the crappy blown molded plastic bottle AND use a larger tank for more cooling capacity.

 

[plasmid]

Whilst I'm at it and trying to fix the leaking bottle. I'll try removing some of the fluid and see if that helps.



I'm currently using the factory CAI and was wondering what other options I have. I'm trying to avoid a retune.

Is the Edelbrock the only 'real' option? Also does the Edelbrock CAI change the location of the MAF and therefore require a retune?

 

[illtal]

Whilst I'm at it and trying to fix the leaking bottle. I'll try removing some of the fluid and see if that helps.



I'm currently using the factory CAI and was wondering what other options I have. I'm trying to avoid a retune.

Is the Edelbrock the only 'real' option? Also does the Edelbrock CAI change the location of the MAF and therefore require a retune?

The size of the maf housing and the tb size will cause a retune if either is changed. Edelbrock Intake will need retune I think because it is bigger than stock. Stick to the stock one, it's quite cool for IAT unless you're looking for more power then you need to delve a bit deeper than just the intake.



After I sell off the remaining 4 bottles, I was going to look into making an adapter for the Whipple 132 since I can just have it cnc. With all the epa stuff I dunno if it's feasible. these Tbs are close to 1000 bux already.

 

[illtal]

@brianbr thanks for sharing, if you could any answer questions about the fitment it would be be appreciated.

I have to work out if the other member wants to use this iteration. Other than that I have a minimum of 3 left of these

 

[jfccac]

@brianbr thanks for sharing, if you could any answer questions about the fitment it would be be appreciated.

I have to work out if the other member wants to use this iteration. Other than that I have a minimum of 3 left of these

I'm the other guy who tried fitment. I have a '16. there was no way it would fit with the filler neck of the washer fluid tank. When you switched the mounting bracket, did it bring the overall tank location closer to the front of the car? If not, i cant help but wonder if there were minor redesigns for the '18 and up cars that may affect fitment. LMK

 

[brianbr]

I'm the other guy who tried fitment. I have a '16. there was no way it would fit with the filler neck of the washer fluid tank. When you switched the mounting bracket, did it bring the overall tank location closer to the front of the car? If not, i cant help but wonder if there were minor redesigns for the '18 and up cars that may affect fitment. LMK

Maybe we should make a new thread

I'm the other guy who tried fitment. I have a '16. there was no way it would fit with the filler neck of the washer fluid tank. When you switched the mounting bracket, did it bring the overall tank location closer to the front of the car? If not, i cant help but wonder if there were minor redesigns for the '18 and up cars that may affect fitment. LMK

I am not aware of any redesign nor do I know if it will work on the 15-17 cars. I haven't ever seen one in person.
When you flip the bracket and leave the lower bolt loose it gives you 1-1.5" of front to back adjustment. I'm not sure if you can see it in my pictures but the reservoir has a slight forward cant to it.

 

[carguy231]

Whilst I'm at it and trying to fix the leaking bottle. I'll try removing some of the fluid and see if that helps.



I'm currently using the factory CAI and was wondering what other options I have. I'm trying to avoid a retune.

Is the Edelbrock the only 'real' option? Also does the Edelbrock CAI change the location of the MAF and therefore require a retune?

The Edelbrock stage 2 includes an Airraid CAI, but of course there is a tune with the package via an SCT tuner.

 

[illtal]

Whilst I'm at it and trying to fix the leaking bottle. I'll try removing some of the fluid and see if that helps.



I'm currently using the factory CAI and was wondering what other options I have. I'm trying to avoid a retune.

Is the Edelbrock the only 'real' option? Also does the Edelbrock CAI change the location of the MAF and therefore require a retune?

Did your bottle stop leaking?

 

[plasmid]

Did your bottle stop leaking?

No mate..

I've contacted the place of purchase to see if they have better luck contacting Edelbrock...

 

[Mustanggtvert32907]

For more coolant I worked with a shop to add the whipple tank on the other side and added a little more piping as well. If your inclined getting a killer chiller setup works well. I retained the heat exchanger too and now can run with just h/e, h/e plus killer chiller which helps iats stay about 10 above ambient and then drag mode with completely bypasses the h/e and my iat 2 is near ambient. This was a completely custom setup those. My goal has always been keep the iats as cool as possible to protect my motor. Also on e85 with a 3.0 griptek pulley. If your willing to go custom do it. The kits from the manufacturer just aren’t great.

 

[wsfrazier]

Anyone take the blower off and return to stock, anything I should be aware of? It's been so long since my install.

 

[Memz]

Is code P0300 a ‘common’ occurrence with these modded motors? (Gen2) Noticed after a little crack of the throttle taking off at the lights it threw this code after checking the ngauge (no CEL or rough idle or driving) I just tend to check codes every so often. Possibly bad batch of gas? I did a comp test on the motor like a month ago out of curiousity and all cylinders had around 215-220 psi cold motor.
Ive been on same plugs and leads for about a year and haven’t had issues.
I cleared the codes and pretty much cruised the rest of the way home and code popped up again (car is running perfect with no hesitation or rough idle)
Assuming bad gas as I decided to fill up at another gas station 2 days ago compared to my usual spot.

 

[Torinate]

No other cylinder specific codes? Did you check for any vacuum leaks? You cleared the code and it came back right away?

 

[Memz]

No other cylinder specific codes? Did you check for any vacuum leaks? You cleared the code and it came back right away?

No other codes. It only had P0300 showing twice (2nd entry was greyed out colour) I just checked a bit later during my drive and noticed it came back. I don’t think (and hope) it’s mechanical damage or cats as it drives perfect with no weird smells or anything. I did notice my battery voltage is around 12.5v during that drive and rarely around 14v. Wonder if low voltage played up with coils. But yeah it drove perfect.
I haven’t checked for vac leaks but I’ll do that also.

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