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carguy231
Well-Known Member
Will the fitting have smooth barbs to avoid leaks? Those welds might not seal well. And yes I am interested.So here is the completed prototype aluminum surge bottle #000.
I will have a member test fit it. If he is still interested. As I have told him it's mine, so I'll sell it at cost, if it is wrong send it back with the interference markups and I'll have another made. If it fits and he likes it keep it. If it does fit this will be what is sold.
PM me if you have questions.
illtal
Well-Known Member
It is a cap we bought to be welded in place with the aluminum neck. I didn't buy it but I went ahead with the idea so he didn't have to fab up one from scratch (costs more).
I will enquire about if the auto parts store will have something you can slap on it if you lose the cap.
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illtal
Well-Known Member
So these fittings are weld on as well. He has told me this should make the current hoses a tight fit. If that is the case you will not have a leak. I have had bungs done like this and they don't leak. Obviously, I'm not trying to sell a leaking bottle. If the tester guy says it leaks, I will change the design no problem.
illtal
Well-Known Member
So I sent the beta bottle of to a forum member to test. I won't call him out but the guy is basically doing me a solid. As of now, I'm looking at selling these for 135 shipped. After we get feedback from him I will make any changes needed, and order the first five bottles unless the demand is great then it will be 10.
H00CH90
Well-Known Member
Anyone have any issues getting emissions codes to ready? I'm catless and understand that monitor wont set, which I can work around, but the only monitors that wont set after thousands of miles of driving are EVAP, EGR, O2 and HO2. I've been trying to speak with Lund but they seem to want to pass me around to different people and argue with me instead of answering questions.
ID1050X injectors, 103mm throttle body, catless longtubes (no O2 bung so rear sensors arent even plugged in). The car drives great and doesnt have any codes.
ID1050X injectors, 103mm throttle body, catless longtubes (no O2 bung so rear sensors arent even plugged in). The car drives great and doesnt have any codes.
392lightning
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Your car will never have emission codes go ready with aftermarket tunes. The only tune that will go ready is the one that is sent from Edelbrock. Check my other posts for more detail or send me a PM.
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H00CH90
Well-Known Member
Yea I am, I'm just skeptical whether the other systems aren't going to ready just because the O2 sensor isn't plugged in. Cheap enough to give it a shot though.
Memz
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- 2017 S550
Anyone know symptoms of a sticky bypass valve/actuator on these blowers? (2300 blower) - I had it visually checked and it moves freely when I give it some rpms in park.
Sometimes I feel like it doesn’t hit boost as easily as it does other times (based on my foot input)
Kind of feels like it comes on laggy at times like a turbo then hits hard at the top of the rpm range.
I was under the impression that supercharged cars were the most responsive when it comes to boost when comparing it to a turbo etc. Have I over estimated how responsive & early it should go into boost?
Sometimes I feel like it doesn’t hit boost as easily as it does other times (based on my foot input)
Kind of feels like it comes on laggy at times like a turbo then hits hard at the top of the rpm range.
I was under the impression that supercharged cars were the most responsive when it comes to boost when comparing it to a turbo etc. Have I over estimated how responsive & early it should go into boost?
Torinate
Well-Known Member
2 things I can think of.
Do you have the pill in the bypass line? The other is the actual end of the rod that goes to the bypass valve itself. Just check it isn’t binding on the blower itself.
Do you have the pill in the bypass line? The other is the actual end of the rod that goes to the bypass valve itself. Just check it isn’t binding on the blower itself.
Burkey
Well-Known Member
When you say “based on pedal position” can you clarify?
It’s quite possible to drive the car in a way that you can reach near red-line without moving into boost, if you’re gentle enough with the transition on the throttle.
Pedal position tells us nothing, it’s the RATE of transition that determines when boost occurs (loss of vacuum).
You were installing a boost/vac gauge a while back weren’t you?
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