Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[illtal]

Yes. But is it a regular rad cap or the Same as the one that comes on the current tank?

Ok the weld in kit with cap is 14 dollars available on Amazon. Shouldn't be a problem replacing a cap if needed

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[illtal]

So I sent the beta bottle of to a forum member to test. I won't call him out but the guy is basically doing me a solid. As of now, I'm looking at selling these for 135 shipped. After we get feedback from him I will make any changes needed, and order the first five bottles unless the demand is great then it will be 10.

 

[H00CH90]

Anyone have any issues getting emissions codes to ready? I'm catless and understand that monitor wont set, which I can work around, but the only monitors that wont set after thousands of miles of driving are EVAP, EGR, O2 and HO2. I've been trying to speak with Lund but they seem to want to pass me around to different people and argue with me instead of answering questions.

ID1050X injectors, 103mm throttle body, catless longtubes (no O2 bung so rear sensors arent even plugged in). The car drives great and doesnt have any codes.

 

[392lightning]

Your car will never have emission codes go ready with aftermarket tunes. The only tune that will go ready is the one that is sent from Edelbrock. Check my other posts for more detail or send me a PM.

 

[illtal]

Anyone have any issues getting emissions codes to ready? I'm catless and understand that monitor wont set, which I can work around, but the only monitors that wont set after thousands of miles of driving are EVAP, EGR, O2 and HO2. I've been trying to speak with Lund but they seem to want to pass me around to different people and argue with me instead of answering questions.

ID1050X injectors, 103mm throttle body, catless longtubes (no O2 bung so rear sensors arent even plugged in). The car drives great and doesnt have any codes.

You can weld in rear O2 sensor bungs .... I did them on mine.

 

[H00CH90]

You can weld in rear O2 sensor bungs .... I did them on mine.

Yea I am, I'm just skeptical whether the other systems aren't going to ready just because the O2 sensor isn't plugged in. Cheap enough to give it a shot though.

 

[Memz]

Anyone know symptoms of a sticky bypass valve/actuator on these blowers? (2300 blower) - I had it visually checked and it moves freely when I give it some rpms in park.
Sometimes I feel like it doesn’t hit boost as easily as it does other times (based on my foot input)
Kind of feels like it comes on laggy at times like a turbo then hits hard at the top of the rpm range.
I was under the impression that supercharged cars were the most responsive when it comes to boost when comparing it to a turbo etc. Have I over estimated how responsive & early it should go into boost?

 

[Torinate]

2 things I can think of.
Do you have the pill in the bypass line? The other is the actual end of the rod that goes to the bypass valve itself. Just check it isn’t binding on the blower itself.

 

[Burkey]

Anyone know symptoms of a sticky bypass valve/actuator on these blowers? (2300 blower) - I had it visually checked and it moves freely when I give it some rpms in park.
Sometimes I feel like it doesn’t hit boost as easily as it does other times (based on my foot input)
Kind of feels like it comes on laggy at times like a turbo then hits hard at the top of the rpm range.
I was under the impression that supercharged cars were the most responsive when it comes to boost when comparing it to a turbo etc. Have I over estimated how responsive & early it should go into boost?

When you say “based on pedal position” can you clarify?
It’s quite possible to drive the car in a way that you can reach near red-line without moving into boost, if you’re gentle enough with the transition on the throttle.
Pedal position tells us nothing, it’s the RATE of transition that determines when boost occurs (loss of vacuum).
You were installing a boost/vac gauge a while back weren’t you?

 

[Memz]

When you say “based on pedal position” can you clarify?
It’s quite possible to drive the car in a way that you can reach near red-line without moving into boost, if you’re gentle enough with the transition on the throttle.
Pedal position tells us nothing, it’s the RATE of transition that determines when boost occurs (loss of vacuum).
You were installing a boost/vac gauge a while back weren’t you?

By pedal position I mean sometimes I’ll put my foot into it and the boost gauge looks like it’s stuck on 0 and it doesnt feel that responsive/“powerful” then other times I’ll do the same and it will hit boost fast and hard and hit 10-11 psi. (Feels like I’m doing same amount of foot power between both of these times)
Maybe I’m just going crazy. I’m still waiting on my nitrous pill to arrive since my bypass line has never had the pill.

 

[Burkey]

By pedal position I mean sometimes I’ll put my foot into it and the boost gauge looks like it’s stuck on 0 and it doesnt feel that responsive/“powerful” then other times I’ll do the same and it will hit boost fast and hard and hit 10-11 psi. (Feels like I’m doing same amount of foot power between both of these times)
Maybe I’m just going crazy. I’m still waiting on my nitrous pill to arrive since my bypass line has never had the pill.

If you’re going WOT and it isn’t instantly (more or less) hitting boost, there’s an issue for sure.
I seem to recall some people having issues with the bypass valve mechanism making contact, but I’m not sure if that was the earlier blowers like yours or not.
I guess my point was that it has zero to do with pedal position as such and everything to do with the speed of the pedal transition.
I take it your boost gauge doesn’t show vacuum?
Perhaps you could look at the dash? If you have zero vac and zero boost, there’s an issue for sure. Outside of that, I can’t give a vacuum figure that would be 100% accurate.
Others may have clues in that regard.

 

[Memz]

If you’re going WOT and it isn’t instantly (more or less) hitting boost, there’s an issue for sure.
I seem to recall some people having issues with the bypass valve mechanism making contact, but I’m not sure if that was the earlier blowers like yours or not.
I guess my point was that it has zero to do with pedal position as such and everything to do with the speed of the pedal transition.
I take it your boost gauge doesn’t show vacuum?
Perhaps you could look at the dash? If you have zero vac and zero boost, there’s an issue for sure. Outside of that, I can’t give a vacuum figure that would be 100% accurate.
Others may have clues in that regard.

Yeah it’s a auto meter vac/boost gauge. Sits at -20 on idle and moves smoothly as you would expect just sometimes rather than ramp up to max boost it stops at 0 and doesn’t feel like it’s in boost.
I’ll have a closer look to see if the bypass valve is moving freely and straight.
Maybe it’s a characteristic of no bypass pill since even daily cruising it slingshots back and forward around car parks slightly and cruising it fluctuates from like -10 to 0 psi up and down surging while cruising at a steady pace and going up slight inclines under 2k rpm (auto in drive)

 

[illtal]

Yeah it’s a auto meter vac/boost gauge. Sits at -20 on idle and moves smoothly as you would expect just sometimes rather than ramp up to max boost it stops at 0 and doesn’t feel like it’s in boost.
I’ll have a closer look to see if the bypass valve is moving freely and straight.
Maybe it’s a characteristic of no bypass pill since even daily cruising it slingshots back and forward around car parks slightly and cruising it fluctuates from like -10 to 0 psi up and down surging while cruising at a steady pace and going up slight inclines under 2k rpm (auto in drive)

A video would be nice to see.

 

[Memz]

Hey gang.

Don’t want to be that guy and assume it’s a tune issue, can anyone please check out my thread/issue here?: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ing-into-drive-supercharged-6r80-s550.155428/

Long story short... after the car has been sitting for an hour after a short trip to the shops, when putting it into drive the rpms drop to 400 then slowly rise to around 680-700 after 30-40 seconds (foot on brake in drive) - any ideas or is this normal? Full details in thread link if you can be bothered

 

[Mustanggtvert32907]

Hey guys,
I have a 2019 gt with a edelbrock stage 2 kit I have my intercooler fluid going into a whipple tank and then to the pump and heat exchanger. Doing this because I have a killer chiller setup. My pump will randomly not move fluid though and I have to fill fluid in the reservoir. When the car is in key on only you can hear the pump humming but no circulation in the system. When you start the engine after a cycle it will start working again. Any ideas what this is? Was thing about just swapping to a vmp upgraded pump kit if they work with our system? Any advise would be greatly appreciated

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