Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Kona 18]

Zero issues with plastic sensor here, if you have the transfer function for the sensor you simply put it into the tune and it works perfectly fine.

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[gjpundsack]

Just in case others are in my situation in regards to brass sensor.

Lund wants me to use a brass sensor. They tried to explain it to me but I got a bit lost in the technical stuff.

The brass sensor on its own can be purchased from eBay but you will need to solder the Edelbrock harness on. You can also get the complete plug and play from VMP.

Not sure if someone can explain it. I presume there are other differences between one being plastic and the other brass? Does brass give a more stable reading?

Is IAT and IAT2 pre and post blower temps?

Did anybody ever answer you question about the two pids?

 

[illtal]

Just in case others are in my situation in regards to brass sensor.

Lund wants me to use a brass sensor. They tried to explain it to me but I got a bit lost in the technical stuff.

The brass sensor on its own can be purchased from eBay but you will need to solder the Edelbrock harness on. You can also get the complete plug and play from VMP.

Not sure if someone can explain it. I presume there are other differences between one being plastic and the other brass? Does brass give a more stable reading?

Is IAT and IAT2 pre and post blower temps?

I think it's a more stable and more accurate unit. Just email Tony Avina, he sent me one without promoting him for it when I had questions. They are supposed to be shipping with the brass ones now.

That sensor I believe is the IAT2 , it's the temps of the air that actually goes into the cylinders. Be careful removing the plastic sensor, mine had loctite red in it and I took about ten mins to get mine out because the blower was already installed. I used a pair of give grips to get it out because I could hear it breaking with the closed in wrench.

 

[plasmid]

I think it's a more stable and more accurate unit. Just email Tony Avina, he sent me one without promoting him for it when I had questions. They are supposed to be shipping with the brass ones now.

That sensor I believe is the IAT2 , it's the temps of the air that actually goes into the cylinders. Be careful removing the plastic sensor, mine had loctite red in it and I took about ten mins to get mine out because the blower was already installed. I used a pair of give grips to get it out because I could hear it breaking with the closed in wrench.

Hey mate,

I contacted Tony. He refused to send it. Said I didn't need it. Lund wants it. I was very nice and appropriate in my emails. So I've ended up purchasing through VMP. It should arrive next week.

I'm hoping I don't have any other issues. Dealing with Edelbrock is not filling me with confidence...

Maybe it's the cost to send it overseas. Not sure.

Apart from the obvious I just wasn't sure what the difference was between the plastic and brass. They sit in the same spot, plug into the sane spot...

 

[Kona 18]

Hey mate,

I contacted Tony. He refused to send it. Said I didn't need it. Lund wants it. I was very nice and appropriate in my emails. So I've ended up purchasing through VMP. It should arrive next week.

I'm hoping I don't have any other issues. Dealing with Edelbrock is not filling me with confidence...

Maybe it's the cost to send it overseas. Not sure.

Apart from the obvious I just wasn't sure what the difference was between the plastic and brass. They sit in the same spot, plug into the sane spot...

Edelbrock is right, the plastic sensor works fine, I used it on my 18 for 13k miles with no issues. Lund just doesn't want to change the transfer function table for the sensor, either bc they lack the will too, or they lack the sensor data for it. The sensor data is available, I got it from their file.

The difference between the 2 has no thing to do with functionality, it's that the brass one doesn't need any changed to the IAT transfer function table in the tune, and the plastic one does. One simple to access and update table in the tune

 

[Torinate]

Question. I can’t find the IAT2 PID just the IAT on my nGauge. Is there a separate PID for IAT2? I’d really like to know what my true intake temp is.

What else is everyone monitoring?

 

[wsfrazier]

These cars don't have IAT2 sensors in the PCM. Just monitor IAT and compare it to the ambient temp sensor.

 

[Torinate]

Ok thanks.

So the IAT PID is trading the actual air intake temp then? This would benwoth the brass sensor.

 

[Jobodizo]

Ok thanks.

So the IAT PID is trading the actual air intake temp then? This would benwoth the brass sensor.

You substituted the normal IAT reading with IAT2 equivalent when you plugged the harness in at the MAF sensor. All that does is take the MAF air temp sensor out of the loop and use the one in the blower instead.

Like Kona said, there’s nothing wrong with the plastic sensor. It’s actually the sensor from the last gen GT500. Edelbrock just can’t get it to read correctly at 45*F and less so they’ve started using the brass sensor instead.

 

[illtal]

You substituted the normal IAT reading with IAT2 equivalent when you plugged the harness in at the MAF sensor. All that does is take the MAF air temp sensor out of the loop and use the one in the blower instead.

Like Kona said, there’s nothing wrong with the plastic sensor. It’s actually the sensor from the last gen GT500. Edelbrock just can’t get it to read correctly at 45*F and less so they’ve started using the brass sensor instead.

@Jobodizo
How is that carbon drive shaft? any issues, vibrations anything? I'm thinking about getting one of those when I upgrade my stock clutch

 

[Jobodizo]

@Jobodizo
How is that carbon drive shaft? any issues, vibrations anything? I'm thinking about getting one of those when I upgrade my stock clutch

Fantastic, no vibration whatsoever. I know there have been before/after videos proving there's no change in parastic loss, but you can FEEL the lighter weight in willingness to rev.

 

[Kona 18]

You substituted the normal IAT reading with IAT2 equivalent when you plugged the harness in at the MAF sensor. All that does is take the MAF air temp sensor out of the loop and use the one in the blower instead.

Like Kona said, there’s nothing wrong with the plastic sensor. It’s actually the sensor from the last gen GT500. Edelbrock just can’t get it to read correctly at 45*F and less so they’ve started using the brass sensor instead.

I'm from Texas, coldest it's been here is 25* and around 35* IAT the dash will show - -, this can be fixed by scaling the low end of the transfer function, it makes it inaccurate, but when your IATs are literally ice cold, does it matter lol...that also doesn't cause issues either, bc once you put some heat into the system the IAT comes right back up.

This is also why most factory water to air cooled cars from factory have a table that lets you turn the IC pump off when your IAT goes below a certain temp.

 

[matwgood]

Well got the car about 95% done. Just have to install the bumper and make all the wiring look nice. Not going to lie those fuel rails were a pain!!! Had to walk away a few times and come back. So worried it is going to leak from the fuel rails and I am going to have to do it all over again. The car started right up and no codes with my initial Lund racing tune. Have to do some data logging and make sure she is running right. Can't wait to get her dialed in so I can go have some fun.

Just out of curiosity if I do have a leak in the fuel rails would it be pretty noticeable? Or would it be more of a slow leak? I didn't see anything when it was running. I looked at all the injectors and didn't see anything.

Thanks to everybody that has posted in this forum! I used a lot of the tips and tricks I read about.

 

[Torinate]

Well got the car about 95% done. Just have to install the bumper and make all the wiring look nice. Not going to lie those fuel rails were a pain!!! Had to walk away a few times and come back. So worried it is going to leak from the fuel rails and I am going to have to do it all over again. The car started right up and no codes with my initial Lund racing tune. Have to do some data logging and make sure she is running right. Can't wait to get her dialed in so I can go have some fun.

Just out of curiosity if I do have a leak in the fuel rails would it be pretty noticeable? Or would it be more of a slow leak? I didn't see anything when it was running. I looked at all the injectors and didn't see anything.

Thanks to everybody that has posted in this forum! I used a lot of the tips and tricks I read about.

Nice!

Congrats!

Just finished mine as well!

I had the same worry about the injectors leaking as well. My assumption is that a leak would be noticeable. They’re under lots of pressure and I would think you would see it. At the very least, be able to smell fuel in that area. Yea, the fuel rails are a pain! Which injectors did you go with?

How much fluid did the intercooler system take for you? I’ve had a few drives with some data logging and the level hasn’t dropped yet. I’m sure I’ve got a bubble in there that will eventually come out.

 

[illtal]

I hope u used fuel safe permatex or loctite on those fittings.

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