Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[Dun5]

I did check the pulley alignment upon install, I was worried because the blower did NOT want to bolt down. I called EB Tech and they said since this was literally the very last kit made the jig and production equipment may have allowed a little deviation in the bolt pattern which matches what I saw doing the install. My belt is wearing fast on the smooth side, and it seems like slippage? I did make sure it was the 812 belt before I installed it, maybe I should try a different brand.

That odd, the smooth side only rides on the smooth pullys and doesn’t drive anything. Only the ribbed side should wear out. It’s what drives the alternator, water pump and SC and the idler only help keep it straight.

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[dragonszar]

The box is for the 3.25 pully. Don’t pay it no mind....lol

Thanks a bunch! That saves me the trouble of buying 3-5 boxes of belts trying to find the best one!

 

[Jobodizo]

Like most of you, I yanked the .015 orifice from the bypass line because of perceived boost lag. Now that it’s hot and I’ve been running AC quite a bit, I’ve been getting some valve flutter in partial throttle conditions. I decided to order a Subaru orifice (.043 I think) to maybe dampen it out slightly, but without the more pronounced lag. I’ll post up once I have a chance to install it and give it a try.

 

[Kona 18]

I haven't really been driving the car while waiting for the clutch install date, but the battery is really struggling with the pump that won't shut off sometimes. It could barely start the car yesterday and after I parked it the pump ran for almost 10 minutes before I just unplugged the stupid thing. Did anyone find a solution to this?

Also, how much belt dust is normal for this kit? My belt looks like ass and it probably has 300 miles on it, and there is dust caked all over the front cover of the motor.

Yeah the gatorback back belt they include is a little dusty, mine is the same way, the tensioner bracket is covered in dust, I asked Nick about it and he said this is normal. You could try swapping to a gates belt as well if you want, the belt length for the 6 rib 3.25" upper pulley combo is 82"

 

[Burkey]

Can any of you Lund tuned guys tell me what size pulley they’ll tune the 2650 for on 93?
For clarity, I’m referring to the 15-17 Gen 2 engine.
Cheers

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Yeah the gatorback back belt they include is a little dusty, mine is the same way, the tensioner bracket is covered in dust, I asked Nick about it and he said this is normal. You could try swapping to a gates belt as well if you want, the belt length for the 6 rib 3.25" upper pulley combo is 82"

Mine is a 2300 kit so I have a 3.00 pulley out of the box so I'll need a shorter belt.

 

[Dun5]

Can any of you Lund tuned guys tell me what size pulley they’ll tune the 2650 for on 93?
For clarity, I’m referring to the 15-17 Gen 2 engine.
Cheers

They don’t go by pully size. Boost number instead. They will only tune 11-12 max psi on 93 with a BAP. Anything higher will require a return fuel system and e85.

 

[Jobodizo]

They don’t go by pully size. Boost number instead. They will only tune 11-12 max psi on 93 with a BAP. Anything higher will require a return fuel system and e85.

Did they require a BAP for the stage 1 kit as is?

 

[Burkey]

They don’t go by pully size. Boost number instead. They will only tune 11-12 max psi on 93 with a BAP. Anything higher will require a return fuel system and e85.

So you need a boost gauge before they’ll even think about tuning it?

 

[Dun5]

So you need a boost gauge before they’ll even think about tuning it?

They will need with know for certain what boost you are at before they will tune you.

 

[Dun5]

Did they require a BAP for the stage 1 kit as is?

Yea; I had to get a BAP.

 

[Burkey]

M

They will need with know for certain what boost you are at before they will tune you.

I guess my point is that you can’t “know” the boost until you run the car.
Eg. Lt Headers remove boost. 103mm TB adds a little.
You can even change the boost with cam timing...
So you can’t really rely on the charts 100% but they make for a good starting point.

 

[Dun5]

M

I guess my point is that you can’t “know” the boost until you run the car.
Eg. Lt Headers remove boost. 103mm TB adds a little.
You can even change the boost with cam timing...
So you can’t really rely on the charts 100% but they make for a good starting point.

On the 2300 TVS 3.5 makes 7lb 3.25 makes 9lb. I’ve already done the work.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Got the car back from the shop today and now I need to break in the clutch, in going to be installing the manual boost gauge tomorrow. The port on the blower is on the drivers side rear? What is the thread on that?

 

[Jobodizo]

Got the car back from the shop today and now I need to break in the clutch, in going to be installing the manual boost gauge tomorrow. The port on the blower is on the drivers side rear? What is the thread on that?

1/8 NPTF fitting. I used a 90* to give me added room and to keep it from buzzing against the firewall.

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