Draining Coolant

[Jason]

Thanks galaxy and NGOT8R!!! Will take that all into account.

In addition, I guess what I was asking:

-is there a way to access the drain without removing the belly pan AND the splitter? If just removing the belly pan is involved then all good, but I was kind of looking at it all under there and looks like maybe the splitter is involved. Seems like the splitter, to remove and reinstall, requires much more work and hammering with soft mallet and things to get back into place, No?

-is there a way to remove the push pins in wheel liner to get to petcock easily, then install hose to drain? If so, has anyone does this with success and were the push pins saved and usable? My experience with push pins is iffy, as in, they suck when they come out and are of questionable quality for reinstallation.

Thanks again and appreciate any input.

Have learned a lot here leading prior to my July 2018 purchase, and has been very helpful and inspiring since then!

I read this GT350 site every day, though I'm not inclined to chime in, I like to take it in, and I appreciate everyone!!

Thank you and enjoy the night!

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[NGOT8R]

I just removed the belly pan only to access my coolant drain petcock.

 

[JAJ]

I just removed the belly pan only to access my coolant drain petcock.

Interesting. When I did my coolant change last year I had to take the splitter off to gain access to a row of screws across the front of the belly pan that attach it to the bottom of the front fascia. How did you reach those screws without taking the splitter off?

 

[NGOT8R]

Interesting. When I did my coolant change last year I had to take the splitter off to gain access to a row of screws across the front of the belly pan that attach it to the bottom of the front fascia. How did you reach those screws without taking the splitter off?

All of the screws for the belly pan on my car are easily accessible. See pic with green arrows referencing the location of some of the screws.

 

[JAJ]

All of the screws for the belly pan on my car are easily accessible. See pic with green arrows referencing the location of some of the screws.

Ahh... here's what you're facing with a GT350:

There are 14 screws holding the splitter on (the diagram doesn't show it properly but there are two screws in each of the four forward openings in the splitter, not just in the middle two as shown), and once it's off you can remove 26 more screws and a handful of push pins to get the undertray off. It's tedious but not particularly difficult.

A side benefit of taking it off was getting two pounds of OPR (other people's rubber) out from on top of the undertray and splitter.

The bigger challenge when I did mine is that you only drain about 5 quarts out of a 15-quart cooling system. I'm not sure what Ford intended, but changing 1/3 of the coolant just doesn't feel like "changing the coolant" should feel. I used multiple drain-refill cycles to change out 70% of mine and then called it a day.

 

[galaxy]

-is there a way to access the drain without removing the belly pan AND the splitter? If just removing the belly pan is involved then all good, but I was kind of looking at it all under there and looks like maybe the splitter is involved. Seems like the splitter, to remove and reinstall, requires much more work and hammering with soft mallet and things to get back into place, No?

-is there a way to remove the push pins in wheel liner to get to petcock easily, then install hose to drain? If so, has anyone does this with success and were the push pins saved and usable? My experience with push pins is iffy, as in, they suck when they come out and are of questionable quality for reinstallation.

IMO, no and no. Yes, push pins are reusable many times over.

I'll also build on @JAJ 's comments...after doing it several times for multiple different projects, I am of the strong opinion that it's easier and less work (especially if you have a R splitter) to just remove the entire bellypan/splitter/front clip as one assembly. I hate separating the bellypan splitter combo with the R. Not worried about breaking or damaging anything, I just find the former to be easier. Some may disagree. Regardless, insane to have to do this just to drain the radiator, but it is what it is. I look at it at therapy anyways, and an opportunity to detail all up in there. When life throw's you lemons....

 

[Jason]

Thanks guys!! Will take into account.

But..for shame!!

So..... for a 5 minute job, as in, open drain, allow drain, close drain, we get ~two hours of work? For me anyway, it would take a while as a first time job and like to take time and look around under there anyway.

Yes, therapeutic sometimes, but I guess it's the joy of owning these.

No way in hell I take to dealer for this unless they can do a mobile home visit for this type of thing, which I doubt?? Anyone know if they do? I would call to find out but my guess is nope.

I may just use my siphon/extractor for the football tank over and over for a couple weeks to satisfy my warranty. As always, I keep records of my oil, filters, receipts and things and call it a day since can't get out all of the old coolant anyway in one legit flush/drain.

Last thing.... someone mentioned leaving hose on petcock when doing this, so can pull fender wheel liners for future easy drain. Is this legit? Can reach petcock through wheel area to drain by pulling fender liners?

 

[Jason]

Sorry for bump. Took GT350 to dealership for coolant flush. Their quote of $180 was too good to pass up as time is money, and me monkeying around with the belly pan and splitter wasn't in the cards. I do oil changes and things myself. So... I just figured they did the flush right. However, two concerns... one is that the coolant in the football is still orange and looks more of a rusty color than it did before. My understanding is Ford did away with the orange coolant years ago, so why is my coolant still orange? and more rusty looking? This car has shy of 6K miles and is garaged always, there is no rust anywhere possible inside or out. Two, the coolant level is about a half inch low from minimum mark (no leaks anywhere at all). Not a big deal, but I want things done right and no way in hell I take it back to dealer to top it off. Would several ounces of distilled water suffice? Any help or advice is appreciated. Another reason to question dealers? Do they still have the orange coolant in stock at this point? Regardless, my extended Ford ESP warranty is good related to coolant flush at 6 years, because that's on them and I have receipt for their so called "flush". Thanks to all. Lurk a lot! Great site and very helpful!

 

[DougS550]

How do you guys do it. The drain petcock on my Mishi radiator is NOT accessible with the belly pan in place. Going to change the expansion tank, and trying to figure out how to get the fluid level low enough for that without making a complete and total mess. Just brainstorming how to get there.

You can vacuum out what you need out for the R2, with a vacuum servicing and draining kit?

 

[galaxy]

Guess I could have came back around and updated this thread…


https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/radiator-drain-solved.206513/

 

[ice445]

Sorry for bump. Took GT350 to dealership for coolant flush. Their quote of $180 was too good to pass up as time is money, and me monkeying around with the belly pan and splitter wasn't in the cards. I do oil changes and things myself. So... I just figured they did the flush right. However, two concerns... one is that the coolant in the football is still orange and looks more of a rusty color than it did before. My understanding is Ford did away with the orange coolant years ago, so why is my coolant still orange? and more rusty looking? This car has shy of 6K miles and is garaged always, there is no rust anywhere possible inside or out. Two, the coolant level is about a half inch low from minimum mark (no leaks anywhere at all). Not a big deal, but I want things done right and no way in hell I take it back to dealer to top it off. Would several ounces of distilled water suffice? Any help or advice is appreciated. Another reason to question dealers? Do they still have the orange coolant in stock at this point? Regardless, my extended Ford ESP warranty is good related to coolant flush at 6 years, because that's on them and I have receipt for their so called "flush". Thanks to all. Lurk a lot! Great site and very helpful!

Definitely should not look rusty. Open the cap and take a picture for us

 

[Jason]

Thanks everyone. Maybe they used yellow and it blended and creates the new odd color. Just doesn't look brighter orange anymore. Pics as requested. Appreciate you all!

 

[Jason]

Keeps saying files are still being uploaded are you sure you want to send. Waited a while, not sure they sent. Will check and try again. Sorry and thanks for your patience.

 

[Jason]

Sorry, don't post here much, just learn a lot. Will have to figure out the trick to post pictures on 6g site. I'm not the most tech savvy, but definitely know how to post most things. Doesn't seem to be working here. Any tricks?

 

[NGOT8R]

Thanks everyone. Maybe they used yellow and it blended and creates the new odd color. Just doesn't look brighter orange anymore. Pics as requested. Appreciate you all!

Speaking from experience, I believe this to be the case. I flushed mine with the new Ford Yellow coolant. I thought I got it all out, but ended up with a funky color which was a mix of yellow and orange from thr residual orange left in the system. I even removed the coolant freeze plugs in my heads too.

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