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Does replacing Rear Deck speakers work

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DougS550

DougS550

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Thanks, I'm sure I can make it work, I'm just not willing to make any changes to the vehicle that I can't reverse. I'm fine with putting holes in the deck cover, I'll buy a new one and cut that, keep the original somewhere. I will not cut sheet metal. Thanks!
I don't know why you would have to alter the back deck sheet metal?.
 

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I don't know why you would have to alter the back deck sheet metal?.
You shouldnā€™t have to since there is an adapter you need to mount the speaker anyways. The basket width will determine what fits and any required modifications to the baffle.
 
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DougS550

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You shouldnā€™t have to since there is an adapter you need to mount the speaker anyways. The basket width will determine what fits and any required modifications to the baffle.
Yep, if needed, I will modify the speaker mount plastic ring.
 

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The rear deck speakers have three things going against them. One is that they are in an infinite baffle location (meaning they have nothing to contain and amplify the acoustical energy like a box or door), they are cheap paper cones, and the rear deck trim panel is so thick it chokes off the acoustical response.

Replacing them is a bit of a pain as you have to strip the entire rear end of the cabin apart to get to them. Youā€™ll need to remove both side 1/4 trim panels to get to the pins securing the rear deck panel. If you want to go this route I highly suggest using a 5/16ā€ leather punch tool and removing the carpeting from the vent holes in the backside of the panel like I show here:
6840D928-AEA3-4EC7-B480-5912A63FAF8A.jpeg

Youā€™ll also need an adapter baffle to mount your new speakers into the stock location. I recommend the Sounds Good Stereo adapters here:
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...6-5-inch-speaker-adapters-fits-front-and-rear

Lastly, the rear mount bolt for each speaker is a pain in the ass to remove and install. They are up against the rear glass and you canā€™t get a ratchet back there. I had to use a 1/4ā€ apex bit and a ratcheting dogbone wrench to remove/install them and you only get a few clicks per turn so it takes awhile.

All that being said, itā€™s only worth it if you like having surround sound or rear-fill. Let me know if you have any questions.
And this is why I will never do this ;-) It is sad how BAAAAD the rear speakers sound even with the B&O option. At least the fronts sound decent. But at 59 and having long lost my hearing, I'm not picky. I'm happy that I can turn up the volume of the stereo louder than the exhaust though.....
 
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Well, I will find out what it takes and let you know.
Thanks Doug! I also found out the rear package tray panel can be purchased for around $200. There are also already holes in all but the top layer. I doubt anyone else is as "keep it original" as I am, but if you do want to drill holes, there is already a guide from Ford there.
s-l1600.jpg
 

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Thanks Doug! I also found out the rear package tray panel can be purchased for around $200. There are also already holes in all but the top layer. I doubt anyone else is as "keep it original" as I am, but if you do want to drill holes, there is already a guide from Ford there.
s-l1600.jpg
Yep, all ya gotta do it lay face down and use a 5/16ā€ leather punch to knock out the fabric from the holes.
 

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Thanks Doug! I also found out the rear package tray panel can be purchased for around $200. There are also already holes in all but the top layer. I doubt anyone else is as "keep it original" as I am, but if you do want to drill holes, there is already a guide from Ford there.
s-l1600.jpg
I have opened up the holes as @Evolvd did. I removed my rear speakers and opened the panel to let bass into the cabin. My subwoofer was making the rear deck flap so I had to create a pressure relief. Used the punch on a scrap piece of HDF board. You need a real hard surface for the punch to cut through the carpet. For heaven's sake DO NOT USE A DRILL. You will destroy the carpet as it will twist around the drill and rip off the panel.
 

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I have opened up the holes as @Evolvd did. I removed my rear speakers and opened the panel to let bass into the cabin. My subwoofer was making the rear deck flap so I had to create a pressure relief. Used the punch on a scrap piece of HDF board. You need a real hard surface for the punch to cut through the carpet. For heaven's sake DO NOT USE A DRILL. You will destroy the carpet as it will twist around the drill and rip off the panel.
Hah, I've done the drill in the carpet thing when I was a kid, learned my lesson. Thanks for the advise!
 

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I bin wanting to do something to get more sound/bass out of the rear deck of my 2021 Mach 1 HP 600a Recaro.so I couldnā€™t get the B&O system.I bin wonder if the amp Supplies enough power to drive aftermarket speakers.I donā€™t need or want a big $$$ sound system just want a little more.So bin think to replace rear deck speaker and add 10ā€ sub box in stock Location with a small amp to drive sub or get a 4 Channel amp to drive both rear speakers& 10ā€ sub box.
 

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I bin wanting to do something to get more sound/bass out of the rear deck of my 2021 Mach 1 HP 600a Recaro.so I couldnā€™t get the B&O system.I bin wonder if the amp Supplies enough power to drive aftermarket speakers.I donā€™t need or want a big $$$ sound system just want a little more.So bin think to replace rear deck speaker and add 10ā€ sub box in stock Location with a small amp to drive sub or get a 4 Channel amp to drive both rear speakers& 10ā€ sub box.
9-speaker system? Yeah, that's what I did. I upgraded door speakers, a-pillar tweeters, and rear deck, plus added a modest sub and amp, and I'm very satisfied with the result. Much more listenable. Also, look up and make the "full range" adjustment in Forscan, if you tap into the rear speakers for your sub signal.
 

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That's my question, is there any cutting required.
No, Crutchfield sells adaptor rings specifically for our cars.
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