Divorced rear coilover help

[SheepDog]

Now when you say bushings pre-loaded at ride height, are you saying the ride height any other than where the car is lowered to or are you saying they’re preloaded to where the car is now? My apologies for not understand clearly.

You need to have the car sitting on its tires, suspension compressed, before you torque the control arm bolts. If you don't have access to an alignment rack, you can use 2 pairs of ramps. Jack the car up, put ramps under each wheel, set the car down, then get under there and loosen the bolts, then-retorque

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[illtal]

The ride height can only be as tall as the shock is in that set up. You'll know if you got it wrong if the car is bouncy. Meaning if the shock height is too tall the spring will not let the shock go into its stroke resulting in a bouncy ride.

I have a set of ISC coilovers. I removed them because it was hard to see the ride height and the spring together. You only need to lower the cradle a to install these.

 

[Guarded 5oh]

The ride height can only be as tall as the shock is in that set up. You'll know if you got it wrong if the car is bouncy. Meaning if the shock height is too tall the spring will not let the shock go into its stroke resulting in a bouncy ride.

I have a set of ISC coilovers. I removed them because it was hard to see the ride height and the spring together. You only need to lower the cradle a to install these.

I know I lowered the cradle for the final install I just can’t remember if I was being lazy and just unbolted camber and control arms to try and squeeze it in there. I understand what you’re saying about the stroke of the shock but the body of the shock can either be lengthened or shortened depending on ride height. At least that’s my best educated case as to why the body is adjustable. I’m going to put the car on ramps tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[Guarded 5oh]

You need to have the car sitting on its tires, suspension compressed, before you torque the control arm bolts. If you don't have access to an alignment rack, you can use 2 pairs of ramps. Jack the car up, put ramps under each wheel, set the car down, then get under there and loosen the bolts, then-retorque

Im going to do this tomorrow at the current height and see if the car moves at all. If so I’ll know then and there I had a bushing that wasn’t happy.

 

[Guarded 5oh]

Well that is what they're "supposed to be", but without any writing on the spring itself I don't know how you'd definitively confirm what you have at what corner.

You’re not wrong. Without putting them in some form of gauged press I won’t know the exact spring rate. I had sportlines on my car for a while and as mentioned before Eibach is good about putting what’s they are on the spring.

 

[illtal]

What would be a better option would be to get the adjustable spring kit and run standard 2.5 diameter springs that have a plethora of lengths and rates. Steeda copied a design from a guy that built them for track use in 2015. The ISC fronts are way better.

 

[kz]

You’re not wrong. Without putting them in some form of gauged press I won’t know the exact spring rate. I had sportlines on my car for a while and as mentioned before Eibach is good about putting what’s they are on the spring.

If this set is using stock sized springs, you can install what you had previously and see what happens with the ride height.
Or use Steeda ride height adjustment kit that is mentioned above with standard sized coilover springs from Hyperco or Swift (you get basically unlimited selection of spring rates). I'ts the kit I am using.

But my question to people buying $1000 kit of coilovers is what are they trying to achieve with them. I

 

[illtal]

If this set is using stock sized springs, you can install what you had previously and see what happens with the ride height.
Or use Steeda ride height adjustment kit that is mentioned above with standard sized coilover springs from Hyperco or Swift (you get basically unlimited selection of spring rates). I'ts the kit I am using.

But my question to people buying $1000 kit of coilovers is what are they trying to achieve with them. I

The front is what is needing the balancing... The rear should be easier relatively speaking. Reducing some of the forward weight bias can be done many ways but with coilovers it should be the easiest.

Here is the guy that created those rear adjusters first



Mike Maier
2015+ Mustang MOD Rear Height Adjusters - Mike Maier Inc https://share.google/Q9WbzTiNM4OVj3tdN

 

[WItoTX]

You need to get the car on scales. If you make ad adjustment to the rear, you 9 times out of 10 need to adjust a front as well. It's entirely possible the balance is so far off, no spring adjustment in the world is going to push that corner up.

Once you get the car corner balanced, then start playing with ride heights.

 

[Guarded 5oh]

So upon pulling the shock out the control actually raised roughly a quarter inch meaning if the car was in the ground it would have gotten lower that roughly quarter inch.
Bushings bound up?

 

[Guarded 5oh]

If this set is using stock sized springs, you can install what you had previously and see what happens with the ride height.
Or use Steeda ride height adjustment kit that is mentioned above with standard sized coilover springs from Hyperco or Swift (you get basically unlimited selection of spring rates). I'ts the kit I am using.

But my question to people buying $1000 kit of coilovers is what are they trying to achieve with them. I

So essentially what you’re saying is that a $1000 set of coilovers is cheap for a daily driver? Interesting. My car doesn’t need “top of the line” parts to get beat up with rigors of daily abuse. Now if I bought let’s say a $400 set of coilovers and expected the world, which I don’t even with my measly $1000 set, then I could see the relevance of your question.

I’m simply just looking for guidance to an issue I’m having with a middle of the road set of coilovers. I appreciate your input though.

I’m clearly not going to add the steeda setup. I’ll get mine figured out or a shop will take my money and fix it if I can’t.

 

[illtal]

So essentially what you’re saying is that a $1000 set of coilovers is cheap for a daily driver? Interesting. My car doesn’t need “top of the line” parts to get beat up with rigors of daily abuse. Now if I bought let’s say a $400 set of coilovers and expected the world, which I don’t even with my measly $1000 set, then I could see the relevance of your question.

I’m simply just looking for guidance to an issue I’m having with a middle of the road set of coilovers. I appreciate your input though.

I’m clearly not going to add the steeda setup. I’ll get mine figured out or a shop will take my money and fix it if I can’t.

I honestly think the spring doesn't have weight height to raise it high enough to get the raked look even level it at a street rideable height in the rear. I think even at the maximum height the spring (unsprung height) is a minimum of 1.5 inches shorter than stock. Those collars aren't supposed to be raised all the way up.

When I called ISC they told me to set the ride height with the shock then with the the spring which will need to be shorter than the shock height obviously so that the shock can go into it stroke when the suspension is compressed.

I finally broke down and bought steeda drag springs with ki-ving double adjustable shocks. I loves the ISC shocks but I didn't wanna keep fucking around with it.

 

[Guarded 5oh]

I honestly think the spring doesn't have weight height to raise it high enough to get the raked look even level it at a street rideable height in the rear. I think even at the maximum height the spring (unsprung height) is a minimum of 1.5 inches shorter than stock. Those collars aren't supposed to be raised all the way up.

When I called ISC they told me to set the ride height with the shock then with the the spring which will need to be shorter than the shock height obviously so that the shock can go into it stroke when the suspension is compressed.

I finally broke down and bought steeda drag springs with ki-ving double adjustable shocks. I loves the ISC shocks but I didn't wanna keep fucking around with it.

I totally get this. It really is becoming a huge PITA. I may spring for another setup or go air ride. Until then I’ll just continue to beat my head against this dilemma until something is figured out.

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