Diff bushing kits again, for 99% DD auto car

[GTP]

My car is described in my signature below. It is 98-99% daily driver, and 1-2% road course. I have read several threads about diff bushing kits.
I don't want any more NVH, so I conclude that there is no point in swapping out inserts from anyone's kits (and there are many offerings now).

So my question is - isn't it still worthwhile to install gap-filling supporting sleeves into the stock rubber bushings?

I searched McMaster and couldn't find any sleeves that will work. I'm assuming the bolts are 14mm, and the bushing ID is 16mm. Please correct this if wrong. I figured I could stack a combo of sleeve lengths if necessary.

Discuss...

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[KellTrac]

Meh. Not really.

Just enjoy it and address the failed rear driver side bushing when it happens, which it will.

The void filling sleeves like I developed when I was at BMR, are truly only necessary if you have a a high powered car that has potential of shearing the bolts from the slop.

Most A10 cars without boost really shouldnt worry.

 

[andrewtac]

Meh. Not really.

Just enjoy it and address the failed rear driver side bushing when it happens, which it will.

The void filling sleeves like I developed when I was at BMR, are truly only necessary if you have a a high powered car that has potential of shearing the bolts from the slop.

Most A10 cars without boost really shouldnt worry.

Anything you recommend for a higher hp boosted car that doesn't amplify the whine from the rear end?

 

[GTP]

Can the rear bolts be removed without dropping the cradle?

If they are 100mm long, then I measured about 4" of rearward clearance to the body. IOW, it seems that it might bind before fully backed out.

 

[shogun32]

I searched McMaster and couldn't find any sleeves that will work.

mcmaster 92510A792
just drill them out to 14mm.

I would do the Whiteline 934. They quit making the 933. Whiteline's material is much more pliant than either of the BMR/Steeda offerings and doesn't cause the Diff to 'sing' at sympathetic frequencies.

 

[shogun32]

The void filling sleeves like I developed when I was at BMR, are truly only necessary if you have a a high powered car that has potential of shearing the bolts from the slop.

except we know NA cars and do tear the bushings too and sheer bolts. Most often after a bout of severe wheel hop.

 

[NGOT8R]

Can the rear bolts be removed without dropping the cradle?

If they are 100mm long, then I measured about 4" of rearward clearance to the body. IOW, it seems that it might bind before fully backed out.

I loosened the rear bolts and then removed the entire cradle before taking the rear diff. bolts out on my car. IMO, it’s really the easiest way to do it without having to fight with something. It’ll also give you an opportunity to install a subframe alignment kit and a subframe bushing support kit. if you don’t already have them on your car.

 

[GTP]

I already have cradle alignment sleeves and CB005 lockout installed.
The instructions for BMR RH017 say to lower the cradle but with the 4 blue bolts loosened and not removed.

I suppose the only way I'll know for sure is to try and remove one next time the car is up on stands.

I was hoping to know beforehand because then I would order the metal sleeves first.

 

[GTP]

So I crawled under the back of my car to inspect the situation closer. There is no way to back out the rear bolts without dropping the cradle somewhat so that they will clear the spare tire well. But after reading some vendors' instructions it seems as though the cradle bolts don't have to be completely removed.

 

[NGOT8R]

So I crawled under the back of my car to inspect the situation closer. There is no way to back out the rear bolts without dropping the cradle somewhat so that they will clear the spare tire well. But after reading some vendors' instructions it seems as though the cradle bolts don't have to be completely removed.

Not sure on that part, but when I dropped my cradle, I used the three jacks shown in the photo. I just kept alternating on the floor jacks from left to right and then the scissor jack. I didn’t have any help and everything went back together very easily without anything going into a bind.

 

[GTP]

I made a pair of aluminum sleeves, 14ID x 16OD x50L mm. Installed them into the OEM rear rubber diff bushings in about 90min.

I lowered the cradle by loosening, not removing, the four bolts. I did not have to remove wheels or exhaust. But I did support the diff with the floor jack just in case, though it wasn't really necessary.

I have two spare pairs available for anyone.

 

[GTP]

See my ad, which has additional photos.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...leeves-for-the-two-rear-diff-bushings.164448/

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