Corner weight distribution question.

[TeeLew]

Agree with you on the first part but disagree on the second part. If the brakes are fading that quickly that's a brake problem IMO. Track driving is very abusive and using parts that can handle that abuse is important, especially if you hope to put down any fast times.

Agree, a BMW M series won't solve it. This sounds like a driver problem. Running 235 wide A/S tires on a race track is a tell tale sign of not understanding the machine.

This was an issue of brain, rather than brake, fade.

Ya, skinny A/S tires aren't great to run on, but I've turned plenty of laps in my Tacoma (true handling euphoria) with something like 500 treadwear tires and drum brakes(on the back) which are particularly prone to locking. Drive within the limits of whatever vehicle you happen to be in at the time and you're fine.

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[Elp_jc]

These are the stock base tire size 235 50 18 on stock rims. Seriously thinking of trading for a M series.

Wow! Others already said what I was going to say, but just wanted to remind you there are Mustang GTs with the PP1 package, for a sportier, yet still compliant ride. And if you want something comparable to an M, then get a PP2 package.

 

[Dana Pants]

This was an issue of brain, rather than brake, fade.

Ya, skinny A/S tires aren't great to run on, but I've turned plenty of laps in my Tacoma (true handling euphoria) with something like 500 treadwear tires and drum brakes(on the back) which are particularly prone to locking. Drive within the limits of whatever vehicle you happen to be in at the time and you're fine.

All true. Due to 10 stitches on my wrist I drove something extra slow last weekend. I still had a blast even if I was 3.6 seconds back in HS. But not to worry, I have a plan to close that gap:

 

[TeeLew]

All true. Due to 10 stitches on my wrist I drove something extra slow last weekend. I still had a blast even if I was 3.6 seconds back in HS. But not to worry, I have a plan to close that gap:

Slow cars with low limits can be a bunch of fun.

 

[K4fxd]

The point is I shouldn't have overheated the brakes that quickly. The car was on hoosier slicks when I had the brake problems

I overheated the pads and boiled the brake fluid. Pedal went to the floor. The Hoosier slicks were 285 or something on dedicated wheels. Not mine. I didn't pay too much attention to size.

I hit 140 on the straight and needed to haul it down to 30.

Anyone can drive fast on big sticky tires. It takes a driver to go fast on small tires and not blister them. I had no more brake problems after we fixed them and got rid of the slicks.

 

[K4fxd]

As far as a PP1 or 2 all I read about here is how everyone is changing the same things. Springs, dampers, bars, wheels, tires, IRS braces, bushings.

So what do you really gain by buying a PP? Brembo's?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

The point is I shouldn't have overheated the brakes that quickly. The car was on hoosier slicks when I had the brake problems

I overheated the pads and boiled the brake fluid. Pedal went to the floor. The Hoosier slicks were 285 or something on dedicated wheels. Not mine. I didn't pay too much attention to size.

I hit 140 on the straight and needed to haul it down to 30.

Anyone can drive fast on big sticky tires. It takes a driver to go fast on small tires and not blister them. I had no more brake problems after we fixed them and got rid of the slicks.

This shouldn't surprise you. You bolted on probably 3x more grip and now the brakes are easily the limiting factor in braking performance. With the A/S tires they are the limit of grip.

 

[K4fxd]

Right, I just told what happened.

 

[NightmareMoon]

As far as a PP1 or 2 all I read about here is how everyone is changing the same things. Springs, dampers, bars, wheels, tires, IRS braces, bushings.

So what do you really gain by buying a PP? Brembo's?

On the 15-17 (beyond the stuff people normally change, like wheels/tires/suspension) the PP added better brakes, Torsen LSD, a bit of underbody aero and brake cooling, a bit more engine cooling, and a minor bushing upgrade or two. On my '16 it was absolutely worth the price for the brakes and diff alone.

On the 18-20s, I'm not sure exactly how much of the above still applies (beyond the brakes and the Torsen).

 

[TeeLew]

The point is I shouldn't have overheated the brakes that quickly. The car was on hoosier slicks when I had the brake problems

I overheated the pads and boiled the brake fluid. Pedal went to the floor. The Hoosier slicks were 285 or something on dedicated wheels. Not mine. I didn't pay too much attention to size.

I hit 140 on the straight and needed to haul it down to 30.

Anyone can drive fast on big sticky tires. It takes a driver to go fast on small tires and not blister them. I had no more brake problems after we fixed them and got rid of the slicks.

If what you said earlier was accurate, that you went off in the 4th corner, then you didn't fade the pads and you didn't boil the fluid. You F'd up and put it into the weeds all on your own. It's not a car thing. It's not a tire thing. The timeline doesn't work.

Rarely do I get to read paragraphs as self-congratulatory as that last one. I agree with the notion you really should be driving a BMW, although that also sounded a little bit like Ferrari Challenge. Take your pick.

 

[Norm Peterson]

On the 18-20s, I'm not sure exactly how much of the above still applies (beyond the brakes and the Torsen).

In the 2020 PP1, you get Unique chassis, EPAS, ABS and stability control tuning

In the 2020 PP2, you get Unique track-inspired chassis, stability control, EPAS and ABS tuning

It's the EPAS, stability control, and EPAS calibrations that you're not going to get in a non-PP car and probably won't be able to obtain or duplicate on an aftermarket basis.


Norm

 

[Brian@BMVK]

On the 15-17 (beyond the stuff people normally change, like wheels/tires/suspension) the PP added better brakes, Torsen LSD, a bit of underbody aero and brake cooling, a bit more engine cooling, and a minor bushing upgrade or two. On my '16 it was absolutely worth the price for the brakes and diff alone.

On the 18-20s, I'm not sure exactly how much of the above still applies (beyond the brakes and the Torsen).

All still true and all still well worth the upgrade price.

 

[K4fxd]

I bought used.

I'm glad you were in the car with me and know what happened.

I never said it wasn't my fault, just the brakes suck. Yes they were fading on the third corner but I thought they would cool on the straight.

An M car would feel stable without having to mod the shit out of it. I did not buy this car as a track car just a fun daily.

 

[Dana Pants]

I bought used.

I'm glad you were in the car with me and know what happened.

I never said it wasn't my fault, just the brakes suck. Yes they were fading on the third corner but I thought they would cool on the straight.

An M car would feel stable without having to mod the shit out of it. I did not buy this car as a track car just a fun daily.

Your Mustang is more like a 328i or whatever lame BMW comes with all seasons. A PP2 or a GT350 is competitive with an M car. For sure a PP1 cannot take down an M car on the track without mods either.

 

[K4fxd]

The added air pressure, springs, bushings, IRS brace finally made the car feel safe.

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