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Corner Balancing----worth the effort?

strengthrehab

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I have installed a set of MCS doubles for my CAMC car. Car tracks fine, but I now I need an alignment.

Should I take advantage of the fact that I shouldn't have to change the suspension for anything else and get a corner balance too?

If so...do I NEED adjustable endlinks for the rear or can the stocks work?
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Egparson202

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I don’t have enough experience with these cars to express certainty.

A lot depends on your expectations. But from past experience with another car, I found that corner balancing was the next “big” gain after alignment. For me at the time it was worth 0.5 sec per lap. It also contributed to a better balanced car that was faster and more consistent for longer sessions.

I’d say do it.
 

Norm Peterson

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If so...do I NEED adjustable endlinks for the rear or can the stocks work?
Strictly speaking, you probably should. You want your cornerweighting to be uninfluenced by preload in either sta-bar. That puts the springs where they need to be, and isolates the sta-bars as roll stiffnesses only.


Norm
 

TeeLew

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Getting the closest thing you can to a 'real' setup really is beneficial. The tricky part might be finding someone who can actually help you with the correct equipment to put a setup on the car.

Thoughts :
It's extremely unlikely that you'll have the same weights side to side on both ends of the car. In practice, that just doesn't happen. If I'm doing a setup for a car that has anti-lock brakes, then I set the corner weights with 50% crossweight. This will allow the car have the same handling balance in R & L hand corners. If the car doesn't have anti-lock, I go for even front weights. This makes for a car that is less likely to repeatedly lock the light front tire (although it will be slightly 'handed' in handling).

I completely agree with Norm on the ARB's. Do the setup with the anti-roll bars disconnected on one side. Once finished, set the disconnected drop link length so there is no static preload on the ARB's.

When you set ride heights, concentrate on making the front end of the car perfectly flat. The chassis will have a certain amount of twist (it's unavoidable). Take the twist on the rear of the car (the average of those 2 measurements should be your target) or, better yet, only take 1 ride height reading in the middle of the rear of the car.

The reason why you should jump through all these hoops is consistency. This work will make the car handle the same side-to-side and you'll be much more likely to trust the car. All the other crap you put on the car will help improve lap time. A proper setup will help you take advantage of the changes you've made to improve your car. It's worth the effort.

P.S. Get the rear drop links.
 

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Why buy high dollar (or even low dollar) coilovers and not set them up properly?

Corner weighting the car is step one with coilovers.
 

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strengthrehab

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Update:

Car underwent corner balance and alignment on Saturday.

Car weight w/out driver: 3680
Car weight with driver: 3940
Start cross-weight: 53%
End cross-weight: 50%
Camber F: -3.0 (potential at -4.0 with plate maxed)
Toe F: 0
Camber rear: -2.0
Toe rear: 0.24 deg (total) IN

Car feels amazing and realized I did my last event on a crappy alignment but still performed well.
 
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bnightstar

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Update:

Car underwent corner balance and alignment on Saturday.

Car weight w/out driver: 3680
Car weight with driver: 3940
Start cross-weight: 53%
End cross-weight: 50%
Camber F: -3.0 (potential at -4.0 with plate maxed)
Toe F: 0
Camber rear: -2.0
Toe rear: 0.24 deg (total) IN

Car feels amazing and realized I did my last event on a crappy alignment but still performed well.
Make your front Toe 0.24 (total) OUT and car will be perfect. Also what is the magic to getting rear camber I just can't get the rear camber to move (stock rear suspension).
 
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strengthrehab

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Make your front Toe 0.24 (total) OUT and car will be perfect. Also what is the magic to getting rear camber I just can't get the rear camber to move (stock rear suspension).
Big negative on toe out for me. Easy way to cord tires. Been there...done that.
 

bnightstar

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Big negative on toe out for me. Easy way to cord tires. Been there...done that.
Mine last around 220 laps and didn't cord any for the past 2.5 seasons. But sure if you don't like it that's fine. Also tires are a consumable anyway if they last more than a session is a win :)
 

TeeLew

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Big negative on toe out for me. Easy way to cord tires. Been there...done that.
In all fairness, the toe doesn't cord the tires. The understeer does. It can help or hurt.

If it reduces understeer, then it will improve tire wear. If you still have the understeer (particularly if you tend to add steering lock), though, it will further expose the inside edge to damage.
 

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TeeLew

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Make your front Toe 0.24 (total) OUT and car will be perfect. Also what is the magic to getting rear camber I just can't get the rear camber to move (stock rear suspension).
The chassis side of the camber link is a bolt in a slot. Loosen the bolt (remove it if you have to) and slide the inner pivot in/out. If you need, you can use a ratchet extention to hit the link with a mallet/rubber hammer. It's cast steel. You won't hurt it.
 

kz

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Also what is the magic to getting rear camber I just can't get the rear camber to move (stock rear suspension).
I can send you a page from the manual that illustrates it if TeeLew's description is insufficient.
 

nbjeeptj

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I found with mine that .26 tow out was causing a bad mid corner understeer. Mine likes 0 tow in front and a slight tow in in the rear. As for the corner balance, I am with the if you paid for coilovers may as well get all you can. It makes the car more predictable since it will act the same in right or left turns.
 

NightmareMoon

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Same here, tires last longer with zero toe
I didn't even like the drive better with toe out.
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