Coilovers?

[Flyhalf]

Dumb question, you’re just saying the FP shocks are upgraded valving, not upgrade the valving of FP shocks right?

Do you have any suggestions on bushing upgrades, “wheel hop” stuff, etc?

Also, is that cortex discount an open offer? I’d love one lol.

Hey
1. It is basically the same shock of stock with better valving. Paired with a bmr LINEAR spring is great combo.
2. Wheel hop i have. Lockup cradle thing. The lower arm bushing in polyurethane. That's it.
In the front. Cortex MONOBALL for front arm and SPL for lower front arm. Also the bumpsteerkit. (Not sure how helpful honestly)

All the rest is "more"...

3. DM me i can definetely ask for you guys. They are my main sponsor.

If you want you can contact me on IG @ITALIAN_STANG.
It is much easier to communicate.

Alessandro

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[paulm1]

I confess i didn't read all the posts.
The short answer is. You dont need coilovers.
The best combination that you can do to your car is the follow.
1. FP shocks. Upgraded valving vs oem. 600$
2. BMR handling linear springs. The stiffest oem style in the market. Also a .75" drop
3. From bmr sway bar. Set up it at medium stiffness
That is it.
And i may. Upgrade your brakes to a pp1 one. The base are just.....bad.

Ps. I won the american muscle cup with this setup

Coilovers are not better per se. Require many regulation to fine tune the car. And not always the best option. En fact when i moved to coilovers to support my Aero it took me 4 months to dial them in.
Hope this help
Ale

That's awesome info, could you provide your wheel and tire combo also? Appreciate it.

 

[bnightstar]

That's awesome info, could you provide your wheel and tire combo also? Appreciate it.

Ask for cold tire pressures as well and the name of his tuner while at it

 

[Flyhalf]

That's awesome info, could you provide your wheel and tire combo also? Appreciate it.

I use APEX Wheels. I have a 18x11 squared setup. For this you would need 25mm spacers in the front. Camber plates. And extended 1" studs with open lugnuts.
CORTEX JRi comes with camber plates of course while if you do the FP shocks i would suggest VORSHLAG CAMBER PLATES.
For the rest OPMUSTANG.COM is the way to go.

Alternative is 19x11 squared (in case i run 3R. I prefer 18 for faster acceleration and smaller tire costs.
For tire well depends what you need to do (and so for initial cold pressure. U want 32-34 hot tho for most pf the tires)
My tuner is OZTUNING

 

[sleepykona]

I use APEX Wheels. I have a 18x11 squared setup. For this you would need 25mm spacers in the front. Camber plates. And extended 1" studs with open lugnuts.
CORTEX JRi comes with camber plates of course while if you do the FP shocks i would suggest VORSHLAG CAMBER PLATES.
For the rest OPMUSTANG.COM is the way to go.

Alternative is 19x11 squared (in case i run 3R. I prefer 18 for faster acceleration and smaller tire costs.
For tire well depends what you need to do (and so for initial cold pressure. U want 32-34 hot tho for most pf the tires)
My tuner is OZTUNING

May I ask, what’s your opinion on running a 19x11 in the rear with a 19x10 in the front? Not sure if I would want to go through the spacer route and go 19x11 all around, never tried it personally. But I am aware these cars need some meat in the front.

 

[Flyhalf]

May I ask, what’s your opinion on running a 19x11 in the rear with a 19x10 in the front? Not sure if I would want to go through the spacer route and go 19x11 all around, never tried it personally. But I am aware these cars need some meat in the front.

It all depends of the usage of the car.
If you do 1 or 2 trackday per year than 10 and 11 is fine.
The more "serious" you become with tracking the more you should consider it. U need camber plates anyway (car loves camber)
Amd remove studs requires literally a big mallet and a impactor gun (which is #1 thing you need for lugnuts anyway. )

 

[shogun32]

Not sure if I would want to go through the spacer route and go 19x11 all around

no need. MRR M600 19x11 et24. I thought I heard Apex say they were thinking of doing similar?
Though it looks like the MRR option is well and gone at least from Ebay. Used to be common as chips.

 

[sleepykona]

It all depends of the usage of the car.
If you do 1 or 2 trackday per year than 10 and 11 is fine.
The more "serious" you become with tracking the more you should consider it. U need camber plates anyway (car loves camber)
Amd remove studs requires literally a big mallet and a impactor gun (which is #1 thing you need for lugnuts anyway. )

Thank you for your help throughout this thread

Later this week I’m going to my shop get the dbl adjustable cortex jri installed and hopefully get to play around the adjustment. Shop also mentioned that I should get a bump steer kit with it to help. I think I’m going to do that as well.

 

[Flyhalf]

no need. MRR M600 19x11 et24. I thought I heard Apex say they were thinking of doing similar?
Though it looks like the MRR option is well and gone at least from Ebay. Used to be common as chips.

Oh yes. Totally. I meant pure squared (meaning same offset allaround to be ablemto rotate tires/wheels for better wearing.

 

[shogun32]

So back to Cortex/JRI, the description has be scratching my head a bit.

This added adjustment feature allows the struts to not only adjust high speed extension, but also to adjust low speed compression or extension through the shaft.

There's really no such thing as high-speed extension. The wheel mass can only extend as fast as the string rate can accelerate it. Unless they are referring to recovery from a G-out. Have you looked at the guts? I guess they are providing preload to the rebound stack (probably partial) so they can put a big knee in the force graph whereas it tends to be fairly linear in most applications?

Did they share a force/sweep graph with you upon purchase?

What I wish these guys (JRI et. al.) would do is put a one-way check valve in the bleed so it's a compression bleed and not a rebound bleed.

 

[TeeLew]

There's really no such thing as high-speed extension.

Are you certain?

 

[shogun32]

Are you certain?

ok fine. If you put a 600lb/in spring in charge of the wheel mass the shaft velosity will be >> bigger than if you had used a 200lb/in. And by that definition, sure I guess that's "high speed" extension if you're observing >6in/sec. My answer to that is, what are you doing using that much spring?

Then again, what do I know. I didn't win the class at the 12hr..

 

[bnightstar]

no need. MRR M600 19x11 et24. I thought I heard Apex say they were thinking of doing similar?
Though it looks like the MRR option is well and gone at least from Ebay. Used to be common as chips.

Apex have SM-10 in et26 which should fit on the front fine.

 

[TeeLew]

ok fine. If you put a 600lb/in spring in charge of the wheel mass the shaft velocity will be >> bigger than if you had used a 200lb/in. And by that definition, sure I guess that's "high speed" extension if you're observing >6in/sec. My answer to that is, what are you doing using that much spring?

Then again, what do I know. I didn't win the class at the 12hr..

Fair question. Let's say we're talking about the front end. As we stiffen the front spring we're controlling the front ride height of the car on the brakes and the responsiveness to input. We'll be able to ramp up brake pressure faster on the stiffer spring, because we've reduced both the time the car takes to react and the magnitude of pitch due to braking load. Further, we can turn the steering wheel at a quicker rate because the car will accept a cross-load. Anti-roll bars can provide some directional response, but they produce their contribution during and after the car has rolled. Dampers can't support the car if they're not moving, so their importance comes in as the car is rolling. Neither can support a load as you initiate steering. That's why big front springs feel so good. Their influence takes effect the moment you turn the wheel.

The faster you can load the front tire, without just blowing through the tire grip, the more rotation you can produce early in the corner while you still have the nose loaded with the brake. You can raise the front spring rate high enough that it loads the tire faster than the tire can accept that load, so there is definitely a point of diminishing returns, but that point is usually a lot stiffer than people realize.

There is a school of thought (I think it's an over-simplification, but let's go with it for the moment) that if you plot a histogram of your shock speeds that it should roughly appear to be a normal distribution. If 'x' percentage of time is spent at a range of 2-3 in/sec in compression, then it should be roughly the same in 2-3 in/sec in rebound. Similarly, if you're seeing 20 in/sec peaks in compression, then you should see something similar in rebound. This is all 'rule of thumb' stuff. There's no mathematical justification to this that I'm aware. While I don't accept this concept as some sort of gospel truth, I do think it's a useful tool to use as a sanity check.

Here's an example I pulled off Google:

At the end of the day, here's my cheat. If you find yourself turning in with your fingertips on the wheel as opposed to grabbing the wheel with your fists, then add front spring. Whether you feel it or not, if you're using your fingertips, then your car lacks stability on corner entry. It's the bane of my existence.

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And about that other thing, lol...https://tenor.com/Flb0.gif

 

[shogun32]

That's why big front springs feel so good. Their influence takes effect the moment you turn the wheel.

I guess I'll have to try it. 275 vs 400 vs 650. Hmm, I wonder how repeatable my coilovers are. At least with the Fortune Auto I can swap springs thru the bottom instead of taking off the camber plate at the top.

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