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Coilovers?

NeverSatisfied

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I've added solid bearing top shock and strut mounts from a variety of manufactures to a variety of chassis over the years both front and rear. EVERY time I added them, I could hear a noticeable frequency in the cabin that wasn't there before while at speed. There is also a sharper impact noise when hitting bumps. It's subtle, but it's noticeable.

I'll admit I've never tried Steeda and maybe there's something unique to the design, but there is a reason OEM's use rubber mounts at specific suspension pivot locations on a road car.
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sleepykona

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Did you install it with the out of the box settings?
 

Flyhalf

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I confess i didn't read all the posts.
The short answer is. You dont need coilovers.
The best combination that you can do to your car is the follow.
1. FP shocks. Upgraded valving vs oem. 600$
2. BMR handling linear springs. The stiffest oem style in the market. Also a .75" drop
3. From bmr sway bar. Set up it at medium stiffness
That is it.
And i may. Upgrade your brakes to a pp1 one. The base are just.....bad.

Ps. I won the american muscle cup with this setup :)

Coilovers are not better per se. Require many regulation to fine tune the car. And not always the best option. En fact when i moved to coilovers to support my Aero it took me 4 months to dial them in.
Hope this help
Ale
 
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sleepykona

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I confess i didn't read all the posts.
The short answer is. You dont need coilovers.
The best combination that you can do to your car is the follow.
1. FP shocks. Upgraded valving vs oem. 600$
2. BMR handling linear springs. The stiffest oem style in the market. Also a .75" drop
3. From bmr sway bar. Set up it at medium stiffness
That is it.
And i may. Upgrade your brakes to a pp1 one. The base are just.....bad.

Ps. I won the american muscle cup with this setup :)

Coilovers are not better per se. Require many regulation to fine tune the car. And not always the best option. En fact when i moved to coilovers to support my Aero it took me 4 months to dial them in.
Hope this help
Ale
Thank you, this really helped!

my only current issue is that I would be spending close to some of the options recommended above with camber/caster plates. I am heavily considering this option.

i do plan on upgrading to the pp brembos, drove a ‘17 pp with better pads and rotors and it felt amazing.

btw your pony is gorgeous, love those wheels
 
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sleepykona

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Flyhalf

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Does anyone have any insight on this specific set?

https://cortexracing.com/product/co...jri-double-adjustable-2015-2020-mustang-s550/

There’s a shop near me that has these at an unbelievable price that is almost too good to be true. I could never consider these due to price. But if anyone has any sort of feedback on this specific set, I’d greatly appreciate it
Oh those are what i run now. I won a national title with them.
So i say i love them. Pm me. I can get you a small discount :)
(To be clear. I'm not making money on it :) just helping.
 

shogun32

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Flyhalf

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JRI makes fantastic units and their valving is generally spot on. And Cortex is known for taking suspension seriously. I just wish they were $3500, not 5.
The valving from cortex brings the kit next level.

That is exactly why i suggested the FP set up first. Then when serious move to this. You want to move to coilovers once and for good.
2-3k range i found being..not optimal and not track proven.
Will it work on the road? Yes.
And so the FP/BMR combo (and it is proven)

Cortex has also the single adjustment that is very nice for daily and occasional track. And cost less.

That could be another good option.
 

shogun32

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2-3k range i found being..not optimal and not track proven
sure thing. I was basing my wishful price-point based on $800'ish a corner. Anything less than Ohlins in the coilover space is a waste of time and money.

And for the money I would have liked to see independent height adjuster.
 

Flyhalf

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And for the money I would have liked to see independent height adjuster.
[/QUOTE]
What u mean with this?
 

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shogun32

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And for the money I would have liked to see independent height adjuster.
What u mean with this?
the JRI/Cortex shocks as pictured, as well the BIlstein, Ohlins and Steeda 'coil overs' all set ride-height as a proxy to spring preload. Spring preload influences the balance point of the piston in it's stroke. If you want the piston all the way at the top (less body drop) you crank on the preload until you have no more adjuster or you've hit the mechanical stops. And you still might not get there. Note how many, many coil-overs state they have a minimum of 30mm drop compared to stock? You're SOL if you only want 20mm drop, you can't get there.

If you have independent ride height adjuster you set the piston in it's stroke where you want it via preload, but then you have a separate adjuster method that lets you functionally change the length of the eyelet-to-eyelet and thus the height of the car.

This is a very crude example.
IMG_4371.webp


The one saving grace of the shocks from eg. Fortune Auto is that the lower mount is a threaded cup so by spinning the body you can change the total length by up to an inch.

281583d1504664753-fortune-auto-coilovers-img_2083.webp
 

MinDseTz

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1. FP shocks. Upgraded valving vs oem. 600$
Dumb question, you’re just saying the FP shocks are upgraded valving, not upgrade the valving of FP shocks right?

Do you have any suggestions on bushing upgrades, “wheel hop” stuff, etc?

Also, is that cortex discount an open offer? I’d love one lol.
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