Cobra Jet intake install

[2015 Silver GT]

Switching to 3.31's will be a good choice as it will allow you to ride out 3rd gear all the way through the traps. The fastest 2011-2014 autos all seem to have that in common and I don't think these cars will be any different.

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[Need4Speed15]

Don't forget he not only swapped to the CJ intake and big oval TB, he also switched to E85. I expected better gains, but I'm sure with some tweeks the times will get better.

More RPM (7800ish shifts) and a gear swap - 3.31's if using a 28" tire or 3.15's if using a 26" tire. Allowing the car to go through the traps in 3rd at max RPM will make a big difference. Also try letting that converter flash off idle or around 1100 rpm and flash it, should produce a better 60ft.

 

[Sinister]

Good lord people it's only been 3 days give it some time.

 

[RBS550]

That's the down side to instant social media.....before the first responders arrive everybody already passes judgment. I'll post whether I improve or not, there will be many parts throw at this car and as longs as I help promote the S550 to go further I'm happy.

 

[RBS550]

I'm trying to locate 3.31s now, FRPP doesn't offer them. You can only get them as a stock replacement....we all know what that would cost $$$.
Next I will be doing the Watson Racing k-member, to try and get my 3,865 lbs down a little.
So if anyone has a line on 3.31s, I'm open.

 

[sonic]

PM Sent

 

[86merc]

What are you using for a rear tire currently?

 

[RBS550]

What are you using for a rear tire currently?

295 45 17 Mickey ET Street DR......27" tall

 

[esacteksab]

I'm trying to locate 3.31s now, FRPP doesn't offer them. You can only get them as a stock replacement....we all know what that would cost $$$.
Next I will be doing the Watson Racing k-member, to try and get my 3,865 lbs down a little.
So if anyone has a line on 3.31s, I'm open.

Doesn't it require the use of 2011-2014 components? Not sure on the ETA for BMR's piece.

 

[Sterling Archer]

I don't get why people are so hung up on the trap speed/time. There are so many factors that go into that, from weather and tire conditions, to driver variability, that there's no point comparing.

I think the only valid comparison is to do a before and after dyno, and see where the power gains came.

 

[kris5597]

I don't get why people are so hung up on the trap speed/time. There are so many factors that go into that, from weather and tire conditions, to driver variability, that there's no point comparing.

I think the only valid comparison is to do a before and after dyno, and see where the power gains came.

I couldn't agree more.

 

[musthave302]

I don't get why people are so hung up on the trap speed/time. There are so many factors that go into that, from weather and tire conditions, to driver variability, that there's no point comparing.

I think the only valid comparison is to do a before and after dyno, and see where the power gains came.

you guys should hang out with people that race. completely opposite opinions.

in racing circles, chassis dyno's are known to be erratic and peak HP numbers don't generally translate to "fastest" car. MPH is a much more reliable indicator as the more usable HP you make translates to more MPH.

Sure there are things like temperature humidity elevation etc that can make one guys MPH seem slow but usually its the same track, same car, same tires, same driver etc which makes MPH quite reliable to determine if a modifcation was worthwhile.

Plenty of guys take a car that has a known best MPH and make a mod and get a chassis dyno number that seems better but then it doesn't MPH as good.

the variable is the dyno.

What do you race, dyno's or at the track? that's why MPH is universally agreed to be true indicator of power made (for people that race anyway).

to each his own

 

[mustang_guy]

you guys should hang out with people that race. completely opposite opinions.

in racing circles, chassis dyno's are known to be erratic and peak HP numbers don't generally translate to "fastest" car. MPH is a much more reliable indicator as the more usable HP you make translates to more MPH.

Sure there are things like temperature humidity elevation etc that can make one guys MPH seem slow but usually its the same track, same car, same tires, same driver etc which makes MPH quite reliable to determine if a modifcation was worthwhile.

Plenty of guys take a car that has a known best MPH and make a mod and get a chassis dyno number that seems better but then it doesn't MPH as good.

the variable is the dyno.

What do you race, dyno's or at the track? that's why MPH is universally agreed to be true indicator of power made (for people that race anyway).

to each his own

I don't think I could agree more. I generally never dyno my car for numbers. If its dyno tuned and I get numbers, okay. I don't go out of my way for numbers. Some of my fastest cars were street tuned only. Even if my car is dyno tuned, I EXPECT it to be taken out on the street for adjustments. I prefer real world final tweaks, not dyno.

 

[kris5597]

I can understand this on cars that don't have VCT. You tune fuel and ignition only with each setup and you go out and race. Add or subtract fuel and timing to see if the car gets faster. I completely understand you can do this on the track or dyno, as long as you have someone to properly operate the car and or dyno. However, when your swapping something like an intake manifold that will drastically change the VE of the engine, ignition advance and fueling aren't the big key hitters anymore. You cannot tune VCT on the strip/ street effectively. It must be calibrated on the dyno to achieve maximum torque at each rpm breakpoint. Once you have VCT dialed in, sure, fueling and ignition all day on the street/ strip. I prefer to use the street to tune ignition anyway to put the car in real world load and conditions.

There is a difference between a dyno numbers guy, a drag racing guy, and an actual tuner...

 

[mustang_guy]

I can understand this on cars that don't have VCT. You tune fuel and ignition only with each setup and you go out and race. Add or subtract fuel and timing to see if the car gets faster. I completely understand you can do this on the track or dyno, as long as you have someone to properly operate the car and or dyno. However, when your swapping something like an intake manifold that will drastically change the VE of the engine, ignition advance and fueling aren't the big key hitters anymore. You cannot tune VCT on the strip/ street effectively. It must be calibrated on the dyno to achieve maximum torque at each rpm breakpoint. Once you have VCT dialed in, sure, fueling and ignition all day on the street/ strip.

There is a difference between a dyno numbers guy, a drag racing guy, and an actual tuner...

I didn't say anything about not needing to dyno tune the s550. Where did I say anything about that?

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