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RBS550

RBS550

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I don't get why people are so hung up on the trap speed/time. There are so many factors that go into that, from weather and tire conditions, to driver variability, that there's no point comparing.

I think the only valid comparison is to do a before and after dyno, and see where the power gains came.
Yes it would have been nice to have a before and after. Dyno numbers and CFM numbers definitely sell parts. It would have been cool to have higher numbers at the dyno, but we were just getting it drive-able and functional for the track. Remember the dyno doesn't simulate traction condition, going thru all the gears and wind resistance. And remember I live in FL work in Michigan and drove to Cincinnati for the dyno time. Time was very limited.
As for MPH, I'm an older racer, this is what we used before there was a dyno on every corner. MPH and the weight of your car will give the HP. As long as you have good MPH, we'll figure out a way to make the car efficient to get the matching E.T.
In the end different things attract different people, I have friends with 8-900 HP from the dyno and their cars will never see the track and that's fine because they reach a different group of people. As long as we're reaching the masses in all forms, that is what keeps Ford producing the Mustang and the aftermarket making us goodies. Case in point my trans dipstick is a Lokar item, they are 100% car show people, but they still came up with a useful product for racers.
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So it's safe to say there is more tuning to be done. Considering they probably dialed in VCT mapped points to make it run and drive for the street. Probably did nothing at WOT VCT, being limited on time.
 
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So it's safe to say there is more tuning to be done. Considering they probably dialed in VCT mapped points to make it run and drive for the street. Probably did nothing at WOT VCT, being limited on time.
I'm sure with more runs and data there'll be more revisions. As longs as the BCM (Body Control Module) doesn't need to be flashed again, I could have the 3.15s in for this Friday night, that would bring new info for adjusting. I will find out tomorrow if the BCM will need to be flashed to return to the original gears.
 

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Do you plan on changing cams at some point?
 
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Do you plan on changing cams at some point?
Yes, this winter I will be installing COMP CAMS cams and more. The PRI Show is always a great place to line up future components for the winter.
 

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that hood is ridiculous but I love the work you've done to get that thing on
 

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Yes, this winter I will be installing COMP CAMS cams and more. The PRI Show is always a great place to line up future components for the winter.
Which cams in particular? I can't find comp cams with as much valve lift as the stock cams in the 2015 engine, slightly more duration though.
 
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Which cams in particular? I can't find comp cams with as much valve lift as the stock cams in the 2015 engine, slightly more duration though.
Get in touch with Tyler Edgar at COMP CAMS he can let you know about cams that are not listed. And IDK just which ones I'll be doing, whatever is best for aggressive N/A.
 
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Gear change to match CJ IM

First I have to say I LOVE my DSS Shafts, how sweet it is the be able to unbolt those baby's and drop that center section out without even removing your wheels! BIG Thanks to DSS for providing such a useful feature! Second my Tuner will be happy to see that I'm doing this, now I'll be able to stay in 3rd till the end. Now there are a couple of lessons here you will see in the pics. A while back I reversed the direction on the front bolts for the carrier, because you couldn't get the bolt to come out far enough, it would hit the gas tank, you have to lower the tank to be able to get the bolt out to be able to lower the carrier. Well by reversing the bolts I was unable to use that wonderful feature from DSS of unbolting the shafts. I have decided it's much quicker and easier to take advantage of DSS's feature and flip the bolts back the other way and lower the tank one side at a time just enough to get the bolt out, after all it's just two bolts holding the gas tank. To be clear I only lower it enough to get the carrier bolt out then I bolt the tank back up, I use a jack stand under the tank so it doesn't get away. The CURT trailer hitch makes a great jacking point. You will also see I'm still running the heavy stock drive shaft. This will be changed soon, which should net us some more numbers. Oh I forgot, if you look closely you can see the mounting height difference between the two posi units for the different gear ratios.
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RB, your posts never cease to amaze. You are a wealth of information and a real badass.
 

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What Ivan said. The details and plethora of pics area really helpful.
 
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Can you fit this with a Stock Bonnet?
I never tried. The consensus was it would not clear. Plus I wanted an excuse to get WATSON Racings CF Cowl Hood(Bonnet). From what I read the BOSS IM is easier to get under the stock hood(bonnet). UPR has engine mounts that will lower your engine 3/4"(19.05 mm), that seems to do the trick on the BOSS IM.
 

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awesome posts as usual RB!

That is cool that DSS changed the design of the Mustang shafts to mimic the last gen Supra... those diffs are way easy to swap out thanks to that very feature. Although dropping the tank was never needed on them. Shoot, in pinch I swapped one out in the driveway at home because I didn't feel like running up to the shop, getting a car off the lift, then putting the Supra up there. If wheels and shafts had to come out I would've went up to the shop for sure.
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