Clutch Pedal Stuck Down

Discussion in 'Shelby GT350 Mustang' started by Shobaki350, Nov 17, 2019.

  1. Niz55

    Niz55 Well-Known Member

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    This is the line. Zip tie is not going to do much as it is a hard plastic. I used very small amount of rtv on top of the line and the housing nipple.

    First push it in all the way and than apply the rtv. Clutch Line In Place.jpg
     
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  2. Niz55

    Niz55 Well-Known Member

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    Afterwards bleed the clutch line.

    Use a vacuum pump with proper bleeding cap (motive 1109) and vacuum the resivore to -15 and hold it for 1 min. Jump in the car after and pump the clutch pedal 20 times. Repeat steps above 3 times.
     
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  3. tom_sprecher

    tom_sprecher Living Race Car Free

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    If your fluid level remains full, and the pedal goes to the floor, you do not have any of the following.

    Leaking slave cylinder
    Leaking master cylinder
    Clutch master supply line loose, or off
    Slave pressure line loose

    All of the above would cause fluid loss, and a noticeable amount every time you pressed the clutch pedal.

    The clutch spring, no matter who made it, or if it is even there, would not cause the pedal to fall to the floor. It doesn't work that way.

    You most likely have a faulty master cylinder like I had replaced under warranty. The seals on the piston are not working properly, allowing fluid to bypass, and not develop pressure.

    YMMV
     
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  4. johnny1

    johnny1 Well-Known Member

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    When I had my 16 and 17 both the line was close to coming off. I pushed it all the way on and put a small zip tie around it where it is connected and then took a larger zip tie and put around about the middle off the hose and the nearest place I could loop around something and pulled it just enough to keep that hose more straight instead of angled. Worked great and I'm sure who ever has both those cars doesn't even see its done.
     
  5. Droopy1592

    Droopy1592 Well-Known Member

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    Literally happened to me last week after the new motor was installed. A bleeding brought it back to normal.
     
  6. OP
    OP
    Shobaki350

    Shobaki350 Member

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    I found the line to be a little loose. It seems like the area was very dry and no fluid leaked. Do I still have to bleed it?
     
  7. CrashOverride

    CrashOverride Well-Known Member

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    I agree with one exception, the slave cylinder could have an internal leak (think the piston seal is allowing fluid to bypass it). Same thing as the clutch master cylinder. They can both leak internally and the fluid doesn't "go away" it just slips by the piston/diaphragms without applying pressure where it is wanted. Waiting the time between using the clutch when "hot" and after you let it cool down, could explain the ever-so-slightly-different rate of expansion/contraction of the slave/master and the pistons inside them. Heck the fluid could also cool slightly and become more viscous making less blow by.

    Just a thought.

    I had my slave go bad with an internal leak in my 89 Camaro way back when I was a poor schmuck. I drove to the trans shop by killing the starter at every light, and then re-starting it in gear. I can't believe the starter had enough oomph to do it, and I'm shocked I didn't burn it out, but you do what you gotta do when you're broke and 500 miles from home. Previous owner before me put a new clutch on it before he sold it to me, but got cheap and re-used the slave. I keep that in mind every time I think about skipping replacing it.
     
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  8. 03reptile

    03reptile Well-Known Member

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    After looking at the photo provided by Niz55, I found the line was not fully pushed onto the nipple on my 2019. I gave it a good push and it moved forward and snapped into place. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the tip!
     
  9. Lawguy85

    Lawguy85 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this. Happened to me tonight, clutch pedal stuck to floor, sloppy feel as I limped home. Searched M6G, checked, sure enough this was almost off on my ‘19. Pushed back on, will try your technique for a solution.
     
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