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FBO5.0
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Alright, so after replacing the rear thrust washers and axle nuts, the click is completely gone! I did the passenger side first. Passenger side washer didn't seem to have any damage to it, and after driving around the block I could still hear the click.
When I inspected the driver side thrust washer, one of the tabs on the washer was missing. After replacing that washer and axle nut, the click went away.
I decided the issue had to be related to the wheel hub in some way because I jacked up the car and accelerated and found that the click didn't make a sound when the wheels were off the ground. This got rid my suspicion of the ujoints. That and the fact that visual inspection showed the ujoints to be in good shape.
Ford is aware that these thrust washers are an issue and redesigned the part. It is now stronger than the previous version.
I think that I may have been the cause of the tab being broken. It's possible that when I torqued down the spindle nut after my hub installation that the tab wasn't seated correctly and snapped when it was torqued down. There are other possibilities as to the cause, but right now I'm blaming the design.
So if you recently did a wheel hub replacement and get the click, check the thrust washer.
When I inspected the driver side thrust washer, one of the tabs on the washer was missing. After replacing that washer and axle nut, the click went away.
I decided the issue had to be related to the wheel hub in some way because I jacked up the car and accelerated and found that the click didn't make a sound when the wheels were off the ground. This got rid my suspicion of the ujoints. That and the fact that visual inspection showed the ujoints to be in good shape.
Ford is aware that these thrust washers are an issue and redesigned the part. It is now stronger than the previous version.
I think that I may have been the cause of the tab being broken. It's possible that when I torqued down the spindle nut after my hub installation that the tab wasn't seated correctly and snapped when it was torqued down. There are other possibilities as to the cause, but right now I'm blaming the design.
So if you recently did a wheel hub replacement and get the click, check the thrust washer.
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting your findings. Glad to see thereās a revised part too. Just throwing this thread in for future reference as well, since a broken or damaged axle thrust washer issue is a common occurrence:Alright, so after replacing the rear thrust washers and axle nuts, the click is completely gone! I did the passenger side first. Passenger side washer didn't seem to have any damage to it, and after driving around the block I could still hear the click.
When I inspected the driver side thrust washer, one of the tabs on the washer was missing. After replacing that washer and axle nut, the click went away.
I decided the issue had to be related to the wheel hub in some way because I jacked up the car and accelerated and found that the click didn't make a sound when the wheels were off the ground. This got rid my suspicion of the ujoints. That and the fact that visual inspection showed the ujoints to be in good shape.
Ford is aware that these thrust washers are an issue and redesigned the part. It is now stronger than the previous version.
I think that I may have been the cause of the tab being broken. It's possible that when I torqued down the spindle nut after my hub installation that the tab wasn't seated correctly and snapped when it was torqued down. There are other possibilities as to the cause, but right now I'm blaming the design.
So if you recently did a wheel hub replacement and get the click, check the thrust washer.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/advancetrac-service-abs-traction-control-lights-on.59115/
RedYeti
Member
Check your rear axle nuts. Mine have come loose on my 2017 GT multiple times. BMR has a post on them. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...k-those-axle-to-spindle-retaining-nuts.78909/
Porsche_Manny
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Great thread. Relatively new Mustang-owner, 2017 GT PP. Clicking from driver rear when taking off. Wheel bearings have no play, axle nuts tight as a drum, and I R&I'd the left-rear caliper since it seemed to be in that area, but found no issue. Must be this.
Only audible from take off at parking-lot speed. Drive 100+ miles daily without anything falling off or getting worse than the clicking (bought Jan 31st of 2020 with 11,500 ā now has 64,300, all highway). If this posed a risk to the bearing, I would have thought it would have fallen off by now). Any risk or just nuisance click?
Only audible from take off at parking-lot speed. Drive 100+ miles daily without anything falling off or getting worse than the clicking (bought Jan 31st of 2020 with 11,500 ā now has 64,300, all highway). If this posed a risk to the bearing, I would have thought it would have fallen off by now). Any risk or just nuisance click?
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FBO5.0
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As far as it causing an actual mechanical issue, I wouldn't think so. A few months ago I installed the Ford Performance half shafts, and GForce told me I didn't even need to reinstall the thrust washers on the half shafts. I know it was many miles before I figured out the sound and replaced the part. Nothing appeared to be damaged, aside from the thrust washers of course.
If it were me though, I would just change them out. It's easy enough to do, and it doesn't cost much. If you let every click and creak slide, they start to add up and the car just doesn't seem as nice at that point.
karpetcm
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I was thinking about doing this to my car. If i do more then 30-35% throttle give or take it will click only under acceleration or early in the morning when i leave my driveway it will click when i slowly drive off. Mostly i notice it under acceleration no clicking sound when I'm driving.
BBW P1X
Well-Known Member
Does this cause vibration? Or is it just a clicking noise? I have a slight vibration that i am chasing down that has been on the car for a bit now that i want to fix considering that when i let off the throttle at 140+ i feel the car vibrate in half a second intervals
Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
Thrust washer issue noted in this thread will not cause any vibe issues with the rear or driveline.
Check here; driveshaft center support flex disc and bolts:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/s550-driveshaft-coupler.104582/#post-3653515
And here; rear diff broken mount bolts:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/broken-diff-bolt.181685/
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/broken-bolt-now-what-part-it-out.189797/#post-3811313
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BBW P1X
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Perfect thank you, just read up on them, car is on jacks now and I will take a look into it, I am also reviewing the long driveshaft/vibration thread that is on here. I am on the manual as well and it does state it can be driveshaft or parts surrounding it causing this. Especially the clunk, I have started getting when Im in a drive thru, and I go from park to drive
First Stang
Well-Known Member
I just dropped off my car yesterday for this noise (5-6 sec mark). Its been 24 hrs and still no news from the dealer. I will update on what they find.
My drop off routine.
1 reset trip odometers
2 reset avg mpg
3 reset accelerometer
4 did a walk around video of the whole car
5 set valet mode
6 gave them a my key.
I think Im being paranoid but it should mitigate joyrides.
My drop off routine.
1 reset trip odometers
2 reset avg mpg
3 reset accelerometer
4 did a walk around video of the whole car
5 set valet mode
6 gave them a my key.
I think Im being paranoid but it should mitigate joyrides.
Last edited:
Paul McWhiskey
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Joy riding is a problem. I do somewhat the same thing. Accelerometer gets reset to zero and more often than not I will get it back with 1.5g turns and braking events logged. And nothing but denials from the shop. I have considered acting like I want to buy a new one and while on the test drive doing some high G maneuvers and burn outs to get even. But then I would just be lowering myself to their level.
First Stang
Well-Known Member
I actually take pictures in front of their dealership with the zeroed values. At the very least they can address the employee involved should it happen. So far no suspicious incidents from my dealer.
First Stang
Well-Known Member
Got the car back. Dealer says it was a ābad left hub assembly from loose nutsā. They replaced the bearing, six bolts and the axle nut. Though not as pronounced, I can still hear it once in a while. They only did the left side. Iām suspecting the right is now the culprit which was overlooked. It took almost a week to get this done. 3 to ID the cause and order the parts. 2 to install. Im going to try and tighten the right side myself and hope that fixes it.
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