Centri Boys, Need Your Wisdom!

[andrewtac]

Paxton good to 850 on E85; if you want something more the JTB (about a grand more) is good to 1250 and also works well at lower hp (unlike some of the other large vortechs). I am in the process of going to the JTB, wish I would have started with it. I am also auto so can't comment on false knock with a manual as I've never had any. I did review several threads on here with people who had it and fixed it and applied some of the fixes during the install before ever running the car.

The crank thing happens NA, with turbos, with all brands of centris, with PDs; I wouldn't avoid one brand or setup because of that; it is the risk you take with modding the car.

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[SolarFlare]

What Drew said. Dont listen to the people that will blame that on one system. Can happen and has happened to anyone.

 

[Jackson1320]

question. To[/QUOTE]

I went Procharger HO w/P1x and love it. Relatively easy install. (Only said F about 63 times) and can return to stock just as easily if needed. Not sure where you get "harder to tune" because PBD nailed mine on the first attempt. The only regret I have is I should have gone w/the State II system.

why do you need the stage2. Get a overdrive balancer and change to 8rib and you can get the same power. I have a carb legal kit making 892whp

 

[TRP45ACP]

I completely disagree with 19bullittwhipple's assessment on false knock, crankshaft snapping and not needing a fuel system. If you get the correct parts including a fuel system, they work fantastic. I run a D1X, Fore Return with supporting mods well into the 900rwhp range without issue. My car is a stick, no issues with false knock either. Can and do cranks snap, sure on all systems. Some items to mitigate that, crank support and Kinetic stud. Throw some opg/cs in and head studs if you are going for higher boost for good measure. You can have a reliable centri setup that puts down great power. I do.

 

[schmeky]

19BULLITTwhippl,

You say "centri torque sucks".

Then you say "get a centri".

Which centri system did you own?

 

[GreenS550]

PD blower is significantly more work to install than a centri.
Centri is easy install, but it does have a torque issue, especially with a manual transmission as you Mustang has 4 gears to get it to 1:1 whereas the 10R80 has 7 gears. The centri is more usable on the auto as it is much lower geared starting out and gets into boost quicker.

The long gearing on your manual transmission needs the torque. Remember the torque converter in an auto trans does just that with the "torque converter".

A Whipple for a manual trans and a Procharger for the auto. Yes more time to install the whipple, but I have never had a heat soak issue with either blower.

 

[GreenS550]

Random question, if i go with either a procharger or whipple, will I need a different oil air separator?

no

 

[GreenS550]

My Whipple'd Bullitt made 675 RWHP SAE on their 91 tune with 93 in the tank. No BAP needed. Just stage one kit. Call beefcake and likely get it for under 7K delivered. Then all you need to buy are a set of colder plugs. Take your time and you can get it done in a couple of days.

Whipple's instructions are excellent, as are their parts which look and connect like OEM. Procharger is good too, instructions need a bit of help. But, again, for a stick go with Whipple or some PD blower. That crappy gearing needs torque.

 

[TRP45ACP]

I have zero problems with torque on my procharger setup. Is there a known difference between a PD and centri when is comes to torque, sure; however, many overexaggerate it more times than not. My car has instant power from any sensible rpm range (meaning not loading the motor at low rpms to lug the car). Either a P1x with a 3.7''-4.0" pulley or a D1X with a 3.7"-4" pulley will be more power , e.g., hp and torque than a lot of PD's I see on this forum. In addition, your IAT's will be much cooler coupled with a significantly easier install. I am not dogging a PD setup as they are good, so are turbos; however, the misinformation on centris, specifically, prochargers is misguided especially since those typically making them don't own one, or, if they did, they did not run any real boost with proper fuel (e85) to make the system really run hard.

 

[19BULLITTwhipple]

19BULLITTwhippl,

You say "centri torque sucks".

Then you say "get a centri".

Which centri system did you own?

whipple

but my friend has a manual vortech and I have seen the false knock first hand

 

[19BULLITTwhipple]

whipple

but my friend has a manual vortech and I have seen the false knock first hand

I only said get a centri because it’s cheaper.. the pd is where it’s at in my opinion

 

[Mikthehun1]

Doesn't have a ProCharger...

"Knows a guy" with a Vortech...

ProChargers are garbage, and all centri's are for poors!



Dude, you're talking out of your ass, about shit you admitted to have no knowledge of. Maybe go do your weird gatekeeper act somewhere else.

*ahem*

ProCharger guys, I'm looking for a tight, reliable 700 wheel on 93. Thinking P1X, big intercooler, Fore return system. Any other must have's/things you wish had gone in from day one?

 

[Black Dog]

I have had all 3 FI. Presently twins. Before the twins had a Vortech. If I were to leave the twins I would go back with the Vortech. Had the Roush and the VMP Gen2 R. The Roush made better power than the VMP. I will never go back to a PD blower.

 

[schmeky]

19BULLITTwhippl,

That's what I thought, so your opinion on based one experience with one centri system. Now we know.

TRP45ACP,

Your post #39 was excellent. Well said. And the comments others made on manual trans, gearing, and torque is spot on too.

I have no false knock and I have -0- low speed "torque" issues with the centri I have on my Mustang.

As I said before, I would install exactly what I have all over again; Procharger Stage II.

To the OP: pick something, anything, you really can't make the wrong choice. You will love boost in a Coyote.

 

[TRP45ACP]

I would suggest a P1x stage 2, Fore return, 1050x injectors, opg/cs and ngk 6510s at .026-.028 with a good tune, e.g., Lund or PBD to name a couple.
Nice to have, kinetic crank stud. If you really want a extra measure of safety, get the PC crank support. If so, you will need either a ATI or innovators West damper. None of those are necessary however.

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