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Catless exhaust setup solutions?

K Myers

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MBRP STREET version

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MBRP STREET version

Ive heard in person mbrp street, borla style, mbrp race and the street when catless it sound smuch louder than yours? Do you have high flow cats? Second or 3rd set of mufflers? Sounds identical to a car with OEM cats. The guy u bought my hood from gas mbrp street, and long tubes. It's easily 3x louder. He also has a Whipple though and over 100k into his build lol.
 

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Ive heard in person mbrp street, borla style, mbrp race and the street when catless it sound smuch louder than yours? Do you have high flow cats? Second or 3rd set of mufflers? Sounds identical to a car with OEM cats. The guy u bought my hood from gas mbrp street, and long tubes. It's easily 3x louder. He also has a Whipple though and over 100k into his build lol.
Boost adds alot of noise if high boost especially
 

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Basically if you want a compliant exhaust, rule out EVERYTHING that Corsa makes and only consider from Borla the Touring version. Everything else with headers in front of it is going to make your ears bleed. The Thermal R&D is on the milder end of that scale, but only would recommend if your car is a non-active. If you have active, go with the Borla Touring with the center resonator.
 

ZeroTX

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They canceled my order. I'll reorder TMR to the correct address lol. Cant argue with 780 ish shipped.
For a full stainless 3" mandrel-bent beautiful exhaust, it is THE best option for non-active cars. No idea how they're doing it and making money and/or Borla/Corsa are r@ping owners for their exhausts, which cost exactly the same to build.
 

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Hey so real quick I'm looking at McMaster carr and online to try and find some good prices (I can order thru my job and avoid shipping/get it much. Cheaper). Everything I'm finding is 3in stainless steel schedule 40. But it claims it's a 3in but then says 3.5in OD. Is that the corr
200-400% markups are not an uncommon margin after all the hidden VooDoo 3 tier marketing profits are exposed.
Everything is marked up, just made a new post seeing if I need calipers now. First I drop 2 weeks pay on an exhaust, then another week on rotors and pads and now I need 150$ worth of pins and possibly calipers and more idk. This Ford is getting expensive as hell. Worth maybe 18k but I've spent over 8k on basic maintenance in less than 2 years
 

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Everything I'm finding is 3in stainless steel schedule 40. But it claims it's a 3in but then says 3.5in OD. Is that the corr
You need tube not pipe.
3.0” diameter x .065” wall or .049” wall
McMaster is the most expensive option on the planet.
The eBay guys selling drop cuts are the best value unless you know someone that works in the Sanitary Hygienic piping industry.
 
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You need tube not pipe.
3.0” diameter x .065” wall or .049” wall
McMaster is the most expensive option on the planet.
The eBay guys selling drop cuts are the best value unless you know someone that works in the Sanitary Hygienic piping industry.
I'm going to try and do a rough measure today, basically see where my xpipe ends but might be hard to tell with the shitty reducer they installed. Will probably give it 3 inches in either direction. I think 2 feet 1 for each side would cover me but I don't want to order too little or have to much left over and waste the money. I only checked McMaster because we order from them almost daily at work so we get major discounts but the only tubing they have is polished and pricey.
 

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Free Spirit

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Do you have Amazon Prime ?
Search Amazon for 3” 304 exhaust pipe.
Example;
https://www.amazon.com/BIGREAT-Stra...rsal/dp/B0CTHY3K83?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Have you welded thin wall 304/316 stainless before ? Do you have a dual argon flowmeter for torch gas and backing gas ?
I weld lots of thin aluminum and stainless. I've done 0.020 aluminum and 0.015 stainless do 0.045 is light work also no I don't have a dual flow because for what we do it gets moved around to much. We have a separate regulator hooked up tons purchase tank in the middle so that it can reach each welder who needs it separate from their own welding tank. I've got gas and welding covered that's the easy part.
 

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I've got gas and welding covered that's the easy part.
Ok, so you have the tube ID purging handled so you don’t oxidize the material on the inside of the tubing.
Post up pix of your system when finished.
 
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Free Spirit

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Ok, so you have the tube ID purging handled so you don’t oxidize the material on the inside of the tubing.
Post up pix of your system when finished.
Yep, I'll probably just take off the midpipe section on one end and the other and just poke the tube through 1 side and flood the damn thing. Not sure how I'll tack it up. Ideally I'd do it under the car but I won't be able to keep the inside super clean. ill talk to my boss and see if he's got any ideas. I know for sure the welds on it rn aren't purged
 

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You can put cats on without doing OEM headers...buy aftermarket ones and weld them in. If you're not boosted you don't have a good reason to be catless. It just stinks and makes it raspier.
I totally agree. 👍

Aftermarket cats.jpg
 
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Free Spirit

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I totally agree. 👍

Aftermarket cats.jpg
15-17 see a good amount of gain from being catless. 18+ see next to nothing. 20-25 hp is well worth being catless and it barely stinks at all. Can't smell it when driving or when idling and standing behind it. There is every reason to be catless when tuning and building the car for n/a speed. I won't boost till it's already about to die because I don't want the decreased reliability
 

K Myers

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15-17 see a good amount of gain from being catless. 18+ see next to nothing. 20-25 hp is well worth being catless and it barely stinks at all. Can't smell it when driving or when idling and standing behind it. There is every reason to be catless when tuning and building the car for n/a speed. I won't boost till it's already about to die because I don't want the decreased reliability
You won't decrease your reliability many people are boosted and daily thier cars i do no issues 671whp
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