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Catless exhaust setup solutions?

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Free Spirit

Free Spirit

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They will post in 3 days but you wont need to pay for it for a minimum of 30 days is what i meant
Yeah I know. I was just saying you can't dispute a transaction until it posts atleast with my bank.
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@Free Spirit
Post up your install and opinion on that Thermal R&D when you can.
I reached out to hypermotive to see if they could offer a discount but if they don't reply in a couple hours I'll place the order tonight to start the shipping process and just pay thermals price since it's not bad. Not sure how bad the install will be. Probably going to need to lengthen the car deletes (they have like a 6+8in steel reducer welded to the stainless so I'm going to cut out that entire section and maybe 1-2 inches before the weld to remove all steel from the system. Obviously the headers and the couplings/flanges are steel but the rest of the tubing does not need to be steel. Hoping I don't have to order any 3in tubing to bridge the gap but I might have to. (Tbh I'll probably just roll my own tubing and weld the seam at work because it'll be far cheaper. Won't be 100% round but I'll make the ends round enough to fit and seal) We shall see what happens
 
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Also completely unrelated. But I bought some z26 brake pads to go with centric c tek rotors (all 4 and front and back pads) should I just grab OEM pads? Keep reading on the forums that people have been able to overdrive the z26 pads and I drive my car hard and stop even harder. Many as hard as possible braking events from triple digits when out having fun. Or just stick with it, also I'll check. Out those drops online, I'll also see if we have anything laying around the shop. We have metal everywhere lol
 

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Also completely unrelated. But I bought some z26 brake pads to go with centric c tek rotors (all 4 and front and back pads) should I just grab OEM pads? Keep reading on the forums that people have been able to overdrive the z26 pads and I drive my car hard and stop even harder. Many as hard as possible braking events from triple digits when out having fun. Or just stick with it, also I'll check. Out those drops online, I'll also see if we have anything laying around the shop. We have metal everywhere lol
Z26 is good for a budget pad
Z26 seems to outperform the oem imo, and experience.
However there are definitely better pads, but arguably a single stopping event isnt going to NEED better
 
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Z26 is good for a budget pad
Z26 seems to outperform the oem imo, and experience.
However there are definitely better pads, but arguably a single stopping event isnt going to NEED better
What pads are better? It's more than 1 single stopping event. Maybe a dozen or more. I drive hard and fast. And often have to engage maximum braking when slowing down. I also have the bad habit of waiting until the last possible second to brake (habit carried over from my motorcycle because braking late into corners is better for speed)
 

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What pads are better? It's more than 1 single stopping event. Maybe a dozen or more. I drive hard and fast. And often have to engage maximum braking when slowing down. I also have the bad habit of waiting until the last possible second to brake (habit carried over from my motorcycle because braking late into corners is better for speed)
Id look into some forum posts to do some research but off hand i know hawk makes decent pads, but theres a few brands people roll with which all are good
 
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Id look into some forum posts to do some research but off hand i know hawk makes decent pads, but theres a few brands people roll with which all are good
Forums posts being up either hawk 5.0 or z26. Z26 seems to come up a lot more though
 

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Forums posts being up either hawk 5.0 or z26. Z26 seems to come up a lot more though
Theyre great for the price, but hawk 5.0 are definitely stronger. Without tracking, in your budget id try the z26, i had them in my ecoboost with gt brake calipers, they felt great for 130mph to 20mph braking
 
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Theyre great for the price, but hawk 5.0 are definitely stronger. Without tracking, in your budget id try the z26, i had them in my ecoboost with gt brake calipers, they felt great for 130mph to 20mph braking
I've get the brembo calipers on mine. Corroded as hell so I'll probably have to scruff them up and order some g2 caliper paint but they should clean up nicely. A nice deep blue would look great against the black car and graphite rims.
 

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I think I'll order the thermal then if that's the best option. I'm tired of hearing trumpets when I get on it. Pretty much the only time it sounds good rn is idle and sub 2.5k rpms. As for boost. I am heavily considering it maybe in another couple years or so. Im only 21 and I had 30k saved up and I lost all of it never to be recovered by gambling. So I'm in a financial out that doesn't allow boost for the time being. But I've always wanted a boosted car so it's still on my bucket list. I think the thermal price wise is my best option because it has the crossover and rest of the system+ the shitty shop that did the car deletes welded a steel reducer to the stainless exhaust and I won't need to deal with a reducer at all since it'll be 3 in to 3 in. Just gotta do either some extensions to bridge the gap. And should I weld the crossover/midpipe to the car deletes or make it a fight for and use clamps that both sides of the pipe slide into (the ones that are basically a sleeve). I don't have access to a lift. But jackstands work fine for me since with the car delete flanges I can remove it from the car entirely to weld as needed. I also have 2 forklifts so worst case I use both at the same time and make my own lift. We've picked up tractor trailers that get stuck on a hill here with the forklifts so a mustang should be light work.
You are right it sounds like shit! You don't have to retun if you chang the exhaust, IMO clamps a better just in case you have to remove the exhaust. I MBRP STREET version
 

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I have a 2017 mustang GT and it has 2m 3in cat deletes with shitty welds, mounted up with some even shittier welds to an adapter then to am xpipe. And then 2.5in (including the xpipe) to the back where it looks like it has sr muffler delete. It's loud and I love loud. BUT. It sounds like dogshit. I don't want to deal with having new headers is installed to replace the cats so what are my options for making the car sound GREAT. A few ideas I've had was swap.to an hpipe (would I need a retune? I'm tuned on 93 by AED) and either a awe axle back or a valvetronic universal muffler set and mounting them just before the axle so I don't have to make custom hangers. Or hpipe leave the muffler delete and get some kinda of vibrant resonstor or another brand to try to remove the rasp and deepen the tone or some form of a jpipe. I'm a broke kid who lost all my money gambling on stupid shit so I can't afford more than maybe 500-800$ (parts only) I'm a welder with access to a welding shop so I can do all my own welding and fabrication. Made the mistake of paying someone for some welding on my old car and got shitty welds and spent 650$ on something that should've cost 50-100$. I'll be doing all my own work this time (Tig welding) please offer me some input. Clips for example of the car currently, just got it back after 3 months of repairs
Idle
75% ish throttle.
Light throttle/fun
 

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You are right it sounds like shit! You don't have to retun if you chang the exhaust, IMO clamps a better just in case you have to remove the exhaust. I MBRP STREET version
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