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camber bolts

galaxy

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Wasn't it mentioned that that's a factory approved method to adjust camber if needed?
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thornclaw

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the factory approved procedure is to oval out the strut to spindle mount hole on the strut.
by the way, does anyone know the nonsplined strut to spindle bolt part number? i cant imagine the splined one would slide properly if i elongated the strut mount hole and fixed my camber that way
 

NightmareMoon

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the factory approved procedure is to oval out the strut to spindle mount hole on the strut.
by the way, does anyone know the nonsplined strut to spindle bolt part number? i cant imagine the splined one would slide properly if i elongated the strut mount hole and fixed my camber that way
the splines one actually works fine for that purpose.
 

2morrow

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Hey OP, I’d say give it a shot. However the caveat being having someone who knows their $#*+ do the work whether it’s you or an experienced mechanic.

If you plan to regularly track your car just do the plates up front.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I’m currently running BMR bolts in addition to the ford camber plates. I can hit 3+ Camber this way. No hole saw and no problems.

I’ve previously run vorshlag plates (they’re awesome) but spherical mount camber plates absolutely add road noise and crash harder on bumps. Not excessive but noticeable.

thought I’d try a different route on my ‘21 and very impressed—lots of camber and zero nvh.
 

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galaxy

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I’ve previously run vorshlag plates (they’re awesome) but spherical mount camber plates absolutely add road noise and crash harder on bumps. Not excessive but noticeable.
You beat me to it. I was gonna mention (and you are the second time) that Vorschlag is the only plate I’ve heard of that actually will increase some noticeable NVH. However, that same research reveals a completely unanimous verdict that they are the nicest pieces money can buy.

If I were a betting man, I’d venture the Ford plates are the safest option against NVH, even though many report none from other brands.
 

boB

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just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.
That is the recommended (and only) method shown in the service manual but only for the upper hole and only 1 mm. The Ford "service" bolts are not splined and are lightly smaller diameter than the originals but are rated for the same torque.
just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.
Because of the distance between the strut mount and the camber pivot point (the ball joint) it takes a lot of movement of the strut mount to get a big camber change. Camber plates are the real way.
The upper strut/knuckle bolt is a lot closer to the pivot point so it takes a lot less movement to get camber change. Unfortunately we are limited to 1 mm so the change will be small (looking at the dimensions my *guess* is maybe 0.5 to 1 degree, next time I am under the Mustang I may measure it).
 

ArrestmeRed

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I've had camber bolts that came with my coilovers(ridetech). I've been running them for about 5 years now without fail. I recently purchased Steeda camber plates to replace them and fit 19x11 wheels up front just to find out they do not fit my coilovers. I ended up adjusting thecam bolts to -2.7 degrees and barely cleared the wheels. No issues or rubbing since my last track day but being limited to -2.7 degrees is definitely a negative for using camber bolts and wide wheels. I'm sure with stock struts you would have rubbed with even less camber.
 
 








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