Burning too much oil!

[NoVaGT]

I thought so too on the excessive part. I didn't drive aggressive for the first 1k, then eased into it, driving a little faster here and there, I rarely redlined it at all, not until I had the GT350 IM installed, and that was last week, it's been eating oil a couple thousand miles before that install.

This is kind of frustrating.

You needed to beat on it right off the lot. Heat and pressure, load, to bed/seat rings and valves and whatnot.

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[HISSMAN]

I couldn't agree more. I usually do about 50 miles of easy alternating RPM's and loads. Then I go hard on it taking it to redline as much as possible and still varying the speed as much as possible for the first 300 miles. After that it is as broken in as it is going to get. I've done this with every vehicle I've owned.

 

[jasonstang]

I couldn't agree more. I usually do about 50 miles of easy alternating RPM's and loads. Then I go hard on it taking it to redline as much as possible and still varying the speed as much as possible for the first 300 miles. After that it is as broken in as it is going to get. I've done this with every vehicle I've owned.

Load yes, redline no within 1000 miles.

 

[robwlf]

i drove mine like i always do , i just varied the load in diff gears to break the clutch in the right way .no steady rpm's in one gear. i do a lot of stop and go driving so makes it easier. but once i hit 500 miles it was game on .. been fine ever since
changed my oil at 1500 miles then 4k. am at 7600 miles now and think i only used maybe a half qt.and i dont baby her one bit lol

 

[HISSMAN]

Load yes, redline no within 1000 miles.

You need to stretch everything out. Now I say redline. But I don't mean having it bounce off of the limiter.

 

[PJR202]

I just drove the car however I wanted from the start and I've never been low on oil. I've hit at or near redline basically every single day for 24,000 miles. It's been Mobil 1 since the first change at 5k. I went 10k miles on my last oil change and the level was still well into the good range. I check the oil after it's been sitting overnight.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

Just a thought....

I just did an oil change after my OPG and Whipple install, I started by only adding 7qts and then checking the oil level. Only needed another 1/3 to reach the top of the good zone.

I have a sense some dealers are just dumping 8qts in the pan, which could be excessive. Too much oil will result in foaming and gassing off A LOT of oil, which will just get sucked through the PCV and into the motor.

When you decided each time to add another qt of oil, where exactly was the oil level? If it wasn't EXCESSIVELY low on the stick, you may want to continue to drive it and check it periodically to see if it continues to drop, it may level off and not continue to eat oil.

 

[jasonstang]

Just a thought....

I just did an oil change after my OPG and Whipple install, I started by only adding 7qts and then checking the oil level. Only needed another 1/3 to reach the top of the good zone.

I have a sense some dealers are just dumping 8qts in the pan, which could be excessive. Too much oil will result in foaming and gassing off A LOT of oil, which will just get sucked through the PCV and into the motor.

When you decided each time to add another qt of oil, where exactly was the oil level? If it wasn't EXCESSIVELY low on the stick, you may want to continue to drive it and check it periodically to see if it continues to drop, it may level off and not continue to eat oil.

I dump 8 qts in and it 's at top of the hashed area when cold.

 

[JustinReed]

Just a thought....

I just did an oil change after my OPG and Whipple install, I started by only adding 7qts and then checking the oil level. Only needed another 1/3 to reach the top of the good zone.

I have a sense some dealers are just dumping 8qts in the pan, which could be excessive. Too much oil will result in foaming and gassing off A LOT of oil, which will just get sucked through the PCV and into the motor.

When you decided each time to add another qt of oil, where exactly was the oil level? If it wasn't EXCESSIVELY low on the stick, you may want to continue to drive it and check it periodically to see if it continues to drop, it may level off and not continue to eat oil.

When I first noticed it was low, it wasn't even registering, I checked when the car was already warmed up, put a couple quarts in, and it was good. I'll start checking the oil when cold, and see if that makes a difference.

 

[Crossroads]

2 quarts in 2K miles sounds more like a Vodoo, than a Coyote. I spend 2-3 days on the track at a time, hours of nothing but 4K RPM to redline and I only have to add a couple of ounces to top it off. I've never had to add more than that.

I would take it to the dealer, and keep your receipts.

 

[JustinReed]

2 quarts in 2K miles sounds more like a Vodoo, than a Coyote. I spend 2-3 days on the track at a time, hours of nothing but 4K RPM to redline and I only have to add a couple of ounces to top it off. I've never had to add more than that.

I would take it to the dealer, and keep your receipts.

I took it to the dealer yesterday, I'll monitor it for 1k miles, then go back to show them the results after 1k.

 

[WildHorse]

I hammered down leaving the dealers lot. Not a drop burned after a 1000 miles.
I'd rather break in the engine in hot rod mode then granny mode.

 

[Austinj427]

I wait when the engine is cool enough. Strut brace and hot engine means hand burning.

The dipstick location pisses me off.

Is there an aftermarket brace that's more out of the way?

I couldn't agree more. I usually do about 50 miles of easy alternating RPM's and loads. Then I go hard on it taking it to redline as much as possible and still varying the speed as much as possible for the first 300 miles. After that it is as broken in as it is going to get. I've done this with every vehicle I've owned.

I do this with all my new engines, even my turbo cars didn't burn oil at the track.

Hoping I ran this one hard enough though. I had to drive it back home to Denver from KC, and varied RPM and throttle for like 300 miles.

I was getting 11 highway lol.

 

[JohnD]

I've had a bunch of road race engines built, N/A and turbo. My engine builder had a specific break in regime for them which involved full throttle, non - redline runs to increasing RPM, each time lifting off and allowing the engine to just slowly run back down to lower RPM. Repeat that 5 times or so, dump the break in oil, load the race oil and race it. This process helped seat the rings quickly.

However.

Road car engines are not race built engines, and breaking them in like a race engine is not a bright idea. I tend to break them in like I'm going to use them, within the limits of the manufacturer break in guidelines. For sure I do not use full throttle for the first few hundred miles, no redline until I change the oil at around 1000 miles, no long runs at steady speed and lots of off throttle deceleration breaks.

I've never had an engine failure of any kind, either with a race or road engine. I don't believe in beating the shit out of brand new engines, that's a guarantee they'll die an early death.

 

[Swayse]

The only engine I broke in easy, used oil. Now I get the oil up to temp, full throttle in 3rd, then coast back down. I do that a few times every time I drive them, until I hit 1,000 miles, then I can relax and do whatever I want. First oil change at 5,000 miles, and every 5,000 after that. I use Mobil 1 5w40, because I'm not comfortable going to Mexico shifting at 7,800 rpm with 5w20 in it.

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