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SH!FT
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- #92
I modified the FP Bullitt 5.0L Engine Dress Up Kit to fit the coil cover brackets on the Roush blower kit. I stole the idea from @monte87 and then overcomplicated it.
Why?
I had to ditch the Roush coil covers. Removing the strut tower brace in order to pull the huge Roush covers gets old real fast. Plus the covers can't be helping my hot start issue.
Unfortunately the coil cover brackets can't be removed because they also secure heater hosing coming from the firewall. The brackets look unfinished without the covers installed.
The Process
I bought the FP Bullitt 5.0L Engine Dress Up Kit from CJ Pony $150. It's a bit over priced for what is and comes with a bunch of stuff I didn't need. Cat not included. She photobombs when she's hungry.
The Bullitt covers are decent quality but showed up warped and not symmetrical. One is nearly an 1/8" longer than the other.
1) Cut away all of the Bullitt mounting points so the covers could somewhat fit in the vise.
2) Shortened the height of the covers to 1.35" tall.
3) Notched the covers to make space for the blower plumbing. DS notch is 2.25". PS notch is 1.75".
DS
PS
4) Drilled and tapped two M6 x 1mm mounting holes into each Roush bracket. The Roush bracket is about 1" tall. The new mounting holes are 0.5" on center from the bracket bottom.
5) Drilled two 0.275" thru holes in each Bullitt cover. Hole center is 0.3" from the cover bottom. Hole center from the cover rear edge was done by eye using the bracket M6 thread locations. The Bullitt cover rear is butted against rear M6 mount point of the Roush bracket making the rear 0.275" hole about 0.6" from the back face of the Bullitt cover. The front 0.275" hole is about 200mm from the rear hole.
I'm happy with the result.
Why?
I had to ditch the Roush coil covers. Removing the strut tower brace in order to pull the huge Roush covers gets old real fast. Plus the covers can't be helping my hot start issue.
Unfortunately the coil cover brackets can't be removed because they also secure heater hosing coming from the firewall. The brackets look unfinished without the covers installed.
The Process
I bought the FP Bullitt 5.0L Engine Dress Up Kit from CJ Pony $150. It's a bit over priced for what is and comes with a bunch of stuff I didn't need. Cat not included. She photobombs when she's hungry.
The Bullitt covers are decent quality but showed up warped and not symmetrical. One is nearly an 1/8" longer than the other.
1) Cut away all of the Bullitt mounting points so the covers could somewhat fit in the vise.
2) Shortened the height of the covers to 1.35" tall.
- Removes the back radius.
- Sits flush against the Roush bracket once installed.
- Fits under the strut tower brace.
- Provides clearance for the plumbing and electronics underneath.
3) Notched the covers to make space for the blower plumbing. DS notch is 2.25". PS notch is 1.75".
DS
PS
4) Drilled and tapped two M6 x 1mm mounting holes into each Roush bracket. The Roush bracket is about 1" tall. The new mounting holes are 0.5" on center from the bracket bottom.
5) Drilled two 0.275" thru holes in each Bullitt cover. Hole center is 0.3" from the cover bottom. Hole center from the cover rear edge was done by eye using the bracket M6 thread locations. The Bullitt cover rear is butted against rear M6 mount point of the Roush bracket making the rear 0.275" hole about 0.6" from the back face of the Bullitt cover. The front 0.275" hole is about 200mm from the rear hole.
I'm happy with the result.
monte87
Well-Known Member
AWESOME!!! Looks fantastic!!!!! =)I modified the FP Bullitt 5.0L Engine Dress Up Kit to fit the coil cover brackets on the Roush blower kit. I stole the idea from @monte87 and then overcomplicated it.
Why?
I had to ditch the Roush coil covers. Removing the strut tower brace in order to pull the huge Roush covers gets old real fast. Plus the covers can't be helping my hot start issue.
Unfortunately the coil cover brackets can't be removed because they also secure heater hosing coming from the firewall. The brackets look unfinished without the covers installed.
The Process
I bought the FP Bullitt 5.0L Engine Dress Up Kit from CJ Pony $150. It's a bit over priced for what is and comes with a bunch of stuff I didn't need. Cat not included. She photobombs when she's hungry.
The Bullitt covers are decent quality but showed up warped and not symmetrical. One is nearly an 1/8" longer than the other.
1) Cut away all of the Bullitt mounting points so the covers could somewhat fit in the vise.
2) Shortened the height of the covers to 1.35" tall.
- Removes the back radius.
- Sits flush against the Roush bracket once installed.
- Fits under the strut tower brace.
- Provides clearance for the plumbing and electronics underneath.
3) Notched the covers to make space for the blower plumbing. DS notch is 2.25". PS notch is 1.75".
DS
PS
4) Drilled and tapped two M6 x 1mm mounting holes into each Roush bracket. The Roush bracket is about 1" tall. The new mounting holes are 0.5" on center from the bracket bottom.
5) Drilled two 0.275" thru holes in each Bullitt cover. Hole center is 0.3" from the cover bottom. Hole center from the cover rear edge was done by eye using the bracket M6 thread locations. The Bullitt cover rear is butted against rear M6 mount point of the Roush bracket making the rear 0.275" hole about 0.6" from the back face of the Bullitt cover. The front 0.275" hole is about 200mm from the rear hole.
I'm happy with the result.
Anthony
Strokerswild
Shallow and Pedantic
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Yeah, that kit with the Bullitt covers is criminally overpriced. Probably because they included the hoses that are completely unnecessary.
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SH!FT
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- #96
Now you've got me thinking though...
Wonder if I can use the supplied Bullitt hoses to replace the Roush intercooler hard pipes?
Although, there's something clamped inside of what I'm assuming would be the DS Bullitt hose. The PS 5.0 Roush hose seems to have it as well.
Can anyone confirm what's inside? Circled yellow below.
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SH!FT
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- #97
Finished installing the Fitcamx Front/Rear Dash Cam (Front 4K+ Rear 1080P+ 128G) last week. I'm super happy with this kit. Good resolution. It links great with the iPhone to download video and snapshots. Great customer service.
Here's my install writeup: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...m-install-disassembly-troubleshooting.184121/
Here's my install writeup: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...m-install-disassembly-troubleshooting.184121/
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SH!FT
Well-Known Member
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- #98
Put the QuickJack 7000TLX to work last weekend. There's sooo much room for activities now!!!
The TLX's longer pickup points work for the S550 pinch-weld jack points but... are almost too long to be used with the Steeda's Low-Profile Jacking Rails. I ordered a cheap set of Pinch-Weld Blocks. QuickJack wants $90 for theirs.
No issues picking up the Tacoma with the Truck Adapter Kit.
They store under the car when not used.
The assembly is super clear using the setup video and provided instruction book. Thanks for the tips @Rapid Red !
My only deviation from the instructions was that I used Blue Monster tape and sealant instead of what they provided. Blue Monster has always been my go-to and no cure time necessary.
Money well spent.
The TLX's longer pickup points work for the S550 pinch-weld jack points but... are almost too long to be used with the Steeda's Low-Profile Jacking Rails. I ordered a cheap set of Pinch-Weld Blocks. QuickJack wants $90 for theirs.
No issues picking up the Tacoma with the Truck Adapter Kit.
They store under the car when not used.
The assembly is super clear using the setup video and provided instruction book. Thanks for the tips @Rapid Red !
My only deviation from the instructions was that I used Blue Monster tape and sealant instead of what they provided. Blue Monster has always been my go-to and no cure time necessary.
Money well spent.
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Rapid Red
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You are having way too much fun <smile> I agree with you regarding the rails as I removed them myself.
That is a nice lift for sure.
Cheers..
That is a nice lift for sure.
Cheers..
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SH!FT
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- Thread starter
- #100
Installed the ACCELATEC Hub-Centric Wheel Spacers 25mm Black Set Of 4.
CJ Pony's install video recommends using a prybar to stop the wheel from spinning while tighten the spacer lugs. No need with these PITTSBURGH Torque Limiting Extension Bars. My battery impact maxed at 100 ft-lbs, so that's what my spacer lugs are at. I hand torqued the wheel lugs to 150 ft-lbs.
25mm on the front looks good. I may reduced the spacing in the rear to 20mm.
CJ Pony's install video recommends using a prybar to stop the wheel from spinning while tighten the spacer lugs. No need with these PITTSBURGH Torque Limiting Extension Bars. My battery impact maxed at 100 ft-lbs, so that's what my spacer lugs are at. I hand torqued the wheel lugs to 150 ft-lbs.
25mm on the front looks good. I may reduced the spacing in the rear to 20mm.
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SH!FT
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- #101
Minimizing Exhaust Leaks:
Had a few connections that were leaking condensation at startup.
I tighten the factory clamps to 50 ft-lbs
The provided clamps for the Roush h-pipe suck. They rain condensation, and the mufflers are starting to sag.
I bought a pair of these EVIL ENERGY 2.5 Inch Exhaust Clamps for $20. I prewrapped the connections with foil tape. Torqued them to 50 ft-lbs.
They won't see any good heat cycles until Spring, but so far there seems to be some improvement.
Had a few connections that were leaking condensation at startup.
I tighten the factory clamps to 50 ft-lbs
The provided clamps for the Roush h-pipe suck. They rain condensation, and the mufflers are starting to sag.
I bought a pair of these EVIL ENERGY 2.5 Inch Exhaust Clamps for $20. I prewrapped the connections with foil tape. Torqued them to 50 ft-lbs.
They won't see any good heat cycles until Spring, but so far there seems to be some improvement.
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SH!FT
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- #102
VMP Tank Install:
The final modification required for the FI interchiller kit is to increase the IC coolant compacity. It's been a struggle to find a place to add a large reservoir tank neatly within the engine bay.
I'm going with the VMP-SUC059 Ice Tank for the GT500. It looks to be at least 1.5 gallons.
I need to make some room...
I'm going to retrofit the PMAS N-MT14-3 Fenderwell CAI kit.
The goal is to get the Roush intake boot to neatly mate up to the 5" PMAS fenderwell tube.
The final modification required for the FI interchiller kit is to increase the IC coolant compacity. It's been a struggle to find a place to add a large reservoir tank neatly within the engine bay.
I'm going with the VMP-SUC059 Ice Tank for the GT500. It looks to be at least 1.5 gallons.
I need to make some room...
- Roush airbox has to go.
- Delete the intercooler hard pipes.
- Relocate passenger air/oil separator.
- Relocate whine sound tube.
- Relocate IC water temp sensor.
- Alter the ice tank mounting bracket to avoid interference with the strut tower brace.
I'm going to retrofit the PMAS N-MT14-3 Fenderwell CAI kit.
The goal is to get the Roush intake boot to neatly mate up to the 5" PMAS fenderwell tube.
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SH!FT
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- #103
CAI Fitment:
So far, so good!
No need to ruin the Roush intake boot or PMAS fenderwell tube. The 3 large ribs on the Roush tube are ~5.2" diameter. The top gap between the tubes ended up being ~0.75". The bottom gap was ~2". The Roush tube does need to be reinforced in order to clamp onto it.
I bought a 5” to 4” Reducer Dust Collection Fitting. The PMAS N-MT14-3 kit comes with a 4" to 3.5" reducer coupler that I was able to repurpose. The 4" coupler end slips onto the dust collector fitting with a little soapy water. I cut off the excess silicone and torched the loose fibers. The coupler adds 0.3" to the 4" fitting diameter.
The 5" fitting end needed to be angled to fill that 0.75" - 2" gap between the Roush and PMAS tubes. I rough cut the angle using masking tape and a cutoff tool. I finished it on the belt sander. At some point I'll make a press-fit insert to improve that harsh 5" to 4" transition in the dust collector fitting .
It's a snug fit. I'll swap out the plastic zip tie for stainless steel once the setup is confirmed. A hose clamp would be too tall.
I had PMAS include and extra long 5" ID coupler. This one is 7" long, and luckily flexible enough to stretch over the Roush ribs with some soapy water. I may replace the provided black hose clamps with matching brushed SS. The clamps are 118-140mm.
There's at least 2.5" of the PMAS fenderwell tube slipped inside the 7" long coupler. The PMAS Z-COUPLING-506 Silicone Coupler 5″x6″Long would work for this application. The N-MT14-3 kit includes a PVC hose which looks to be perfect length for relocating the driver's side UPR Oil Catch Can.
A white clip on the headlight assembly had to be shaved to allow clearance for the fenderwell tube to rotate towards the Roush intake boot.
The provided PMAS bracket works well and is super sturdy once the tube and filter are installed. PMAS provides a new plastic push clip for securing bracket's lower mounting point. I hate clips. That mounting hole easily taps to M8 x 1.25mm (button head cap screw shown below).
I rerouted and tied off the MAF harness as shown below.
PMAS provided and installed the MAF delete cover. I used the 3" coupler to connect the filter to the fenderwell tube. That is the F-7120V filter.
The F-7120V filter is Round Tapered:
Base dia: 7.75"
Top dia: 5.5"
Height 6.5"
Outerwears Inc. can make the correct pre-filter:
http://www.outerwears.com/products.asp?cat=11446
I'll give the Filterwears F215 pre-filter a try before going custom.
The car starts and runs with no MAP calc issues. I plan to still run the Roush P2 cal. I will be keeping a close eye on AFR in the Spring. I don't expect to have issues unless this setup restricts air flow. I have a decent handle on the physics but.. this is my first MAP build. Any insight is welcomed.
Next up.... Ice tank and oil catch can mounting bracket fabrication!
So far, so good!
No need to ruin the Roush intake boot or PMAS fenderwell tube. The 3 large ribs on the Roush tube are ~5.2" diameter. The top gap between the tubes ended up being ~0.75". The bottom gap was ~2". The Roush tube does need to be reinforced in order to clamp onto it.
I bought a 5” to 4” Reducer Dust Collection Fitting. The PMAS N-MT14-3 kit comes with a 4" to 3.5" reducer coupler that I was able to repurpose. The 4" coupler end slips onto the dust collector fitting with a little soapy water. I cut off the excess silicone and torched the loose fibers. The coupler adds 0.3" to the 4" fitting diameter.
The 5" fitting end needed to be angled to fill that 0.75" - 2" gap between the Roush and PMAS tubes. I rough cut the angle using masking tape and a cutoff tool. I finished it on the belt sander. At some point I'll make a press-fit insert to improve that harsh 5" to 4" transition in the dust collector fitting .
It's a snug fit. I'll swap out the plastic zip tie for stainless steel once the setup is confirmed. A hose clamp would be too tall.
I had PMAS include and extra long 5" ID coupler. This one is 7" long, and luckily flexible enough to stretch over the Roush ribs with some soapy water. I may replace the provided black hose clamps with matching brushed SS. The clamps are 118-140mm.
There's at least 2.5" of the PMAS fenderwell tube slipped inside the 7" long coupler. The PMAS Z-COUPLING-506 Silicone Coupler 5″x6″Long would work for this application. The N-MT14-3 kit includes a PVC hose which looks to be perfect length for relocating the driver's side UPR Oil Catch Can.
A white clip on the headlight assembly had to be shaved to allow clearance for the fenderwell tube to rotate towards the Roush intake boot.
The provided PMAS bracket works well and is super sturdy once the tube and filter are installed. PMAS provides a new plastic push clip for securing bracket's lower mounting point. I hate clips. That mounting hole easily taps to M8 x 1.25mm (button head cap screw shown below).
I rerouted and tied off the MAF harness as shown below.
PMAS provided and installed the MAF delete cover. I used the 3" coupler to connect the filter to the fenderwell tube. That is the F-7120V filter.
The F-7120V filter is Round Tapered:
Base dia: 7.75"
Top dia: 5.5"
Height 6.5"
Outerwears Inc. can make the correct pre-filter:
http://www.outerwears.com/products.asp?cat=11446
I'll give the Filterwears F215 pre-filter a try before going custom.
The car starts and runs with no MAP calc issues. I plan to still run the Roush P2 cal. I will be keeping a close eye on AFR in the Spring. I don't expect to have issues unless this setup restricts air flow. I have a decent handle on the physics but.. this is my first MAP build. Any insight is welcomed.
Next up.... Ice tank and oil catch can mounting bracket fabrication!
Last edited:
Grimreaper
Well-Known Member
Love it. Very nice "integration". I have been mulling over making that tube work with a gen2 roush intake.
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SH!FT
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- #105
You have this setup correct?
The issue you'll run in to is the PMAS fenderwell tube begins to hit the headlight assembly as you rotate the inlet clockwise. I had to shave a clip to make clearance for the minor rotation mine requires.
The lower fenderwell tube could be flipped. I'll see if that points it towards the firewall .
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