Fitcamx Front and Rear Dash Cam: Install/Disassembly/Troubleshooting

[SH!FT]

My install of the Fitcamx Dash Cam (Front 4K+ Rear 1080P+ 128G):

It's a great system! I have one in my Tacoma as well.

Powered by rain sensor circuit.
FitDVR app works well with iphone.
Storage: micro SD card
Front camera install instructions are good: install video

OEM

Front cam installed.

Rear cam installed.

Phone app view at dusk.

- Power and Snapshot buttons
- Blue and red LED indicators
- Microphone

What I see from the driver's seat.

Fitcamx vs. OEM

The Install:
I tested the system before installing in the car. (This is not necessary.)
The Fitcamx provided wiring harness connector has labeled wires #1, #2, #3. I plugged in the rear camera, then put 12 volts to wire terminal #1 and ground to #3. I downloaded app to my phone and was able to test all of the camera functions.

Front camera install:
Super easy. Just followed the install video. I did add a zip tie and sticky mount to the power cable to keep the connector away from the flimsy dimmer sensor. Tried for nearly an hour to get the rear camera connector to fit in the cover as well. No luck without risk of damaging the rain sensor. The rear connector was instead taped and tucked into the headliner. Everything is easily hidden. All cable slack was pulled to the rear windshield.

Rear camera install:
the instructions are a bit vague. Here's a Generic Fitcamx front/rear camera install video but... I found quicker way to run the rear cam wiring through the headliner.
Here's what the underside of the headliner looks like. It's a fiberglass shell with a decent gap between the roof.

I was able to sit in the passenger's seat and feed a snake straight backwards between the sun visor mount points. Next pull the cable from the rear to front windshield.

The rear camera needs to be mounted centered to avoid having a rear passenger hit their head on it. I was able to use the defroster pattern to help me do that accurately. The distance between the circled elements below is 13 7/8". The mounting surface of the camera bracket is 1 1/2". I marked my ruler at 6 3/16" then marked the rear windshield from inside with a dry erase marker.

The camera mount was flipped so all of the bracket would be hidden under the black window paint. I locked the camera in the highest position by tighten the 2 screws. Dry fitting the camera to the alignment shown below results an indent from the cable on the headliner when the camera was removed. I created a small notch in the headliner at the indent using a Dremel. Slowing opening the notch until the camera dry fit comfortably and the OEM gap between the headliner and rear windshield was restored. The connector was taped and cable was fished back into the headliner

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[SH!FT]

Below should cover how to troubleshoot if the dash cam were to ever malfunction. The kit has been awesome so far.

Why did I pull apart my brand new dash cam kit???
I'm bad about checking my email. Fitcamx had questions that I never answered so... I ended up receiving the Ford Mondeo kit instead. Their customer service was great once I finally responded. I found it easiest to text with them on WhatsApp at +86 150 1476 7002. Their written English is good.

I had them send me the Mustang specific parts instead of returning the Mondeo kit. Swapping the dash cam electronics from the Mondeo to Mustang cover was easy, plus I got to see how stuff works.

Powering the dash cam using the rain sensor circuit:
The rain sensor's VPWR (wire #1) provides switched 12v from fuse #72.

VPWR powers the dash cam's BAT+ and ACC pins. The Fitcamx Mustang harness BAT+ and ACC wires have 2 amp inline fuses.

I cut open the Mondeo harness to confirm.

The front and rear cam draw just 300mA while recording.
200mA with only the front cam connected and recording.

Assembly/Disassembly:

The Mustang kit uses 4 screws. The rest clips together. Tab locations shown above.

Disassembly:

1. Eject the micro SD card.
2. Remove the 4 screws and top cover.
3. Pull up to slide out the small PCB (buttons, LEDs, and microphone).
4. Carefully peel up the black tape and wifi antenna.
5. Lift the large PCB housing to allow room to unclip the camera housing then slide the lens back.
6. Lift out the whole unit.

 

[Nightmonkey]

@SH!FT
Can you already share your first user experiences with the FITCAMX?

 

[SH!FT]

@SH!FT
Can you already share your first user experiences with the FITCAMX?

Sure. I'm very happy with it. The car is garaged for the winter, but I use the same dash camera every day in my truck. The FitDVR phone app works well.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Ordered the 4k f&r setup. In todays letigous society having a dashcam is a must. Thanks for the thread.

 

[Nightmonkey]

You can forget about 4K, it is better to buy 2K.
According to Fitcamx, a Galaxycore GC4653 CMOS sensor is installed, which can only natively capture 2K / 1440p.
That means 4K is only interpolated and not a real 4K quality.
Take into account in the settings if you have purchased the 4K version, otherwise the files will be unnecessarily large.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

You can forget about 4K, it is better to buy 2K.
According to Fitcamx, a Galaxycore GC4653 CMOS sensor is installed, which can only natively capture 2K / 1440p.
That means 4K is only interpolated and not a real 4K quality.
Take into account in the settings if you have purchased the 4K version, otherwise the files will be unnecessarily large.

I bought a used unit for good price on amazon. File size is not an issue. I have Vantru in my truck but with the rack in back only the forward camera is used. Plus the Vantru is not model specific so it is kind of big.

 

[Nightmonkey]

File size is not an issue.

Sure, it's always an issue, because every write operation kind of wears out the memory card.
So if you set 2K instead of fake 4K, the memory card will last longer.
Apart from that, the download of the files is of course faster, if you want to download a video.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Sure, it's always an issue, because every write operation kind of wears out the memory card.
So if you set 2K instead of fake 4K, the memory card will last longer.
Apart from that, the download of the files is of course faster, if you want to download a video.

So I can set it to 2K? Works for me being a rock and spear kind of guy

 

[Nightmonkey]

So I can set it to 2K? Works for me being a rock and spear kind of guy

If the firmware is not total junk, it should be possible.
Maybe you and @SH!FT can confirm?

I am still hasitating to downgrade from my Viofo A119 Mini.

 

[SH!FT]

If the firmware is not total junk, it should be possible.
Maybe you and @SH!FT can confirm?

I am still hasitating to downgrade from my Viofo A119 Mini.

I agree. It's definitely not writing at 4k quality on the default settings. I've only messed with the loop settings so far. I would assume setting recording quality is an option.

The app has a decent sized list of recording settings from what I remember. I'll check next time I have the phone connected. I should be able to check the file properties if I pull the SD card as well.

 

[RTFM]

feed a snake straight backwards between the sun visor mount points. Next pull the cable from the rear to front windshield.

That part did not work for me. The fishing line got stuck somewhere around the shark fin. After many attempts, it went through and popped out on the other side. But impossible to pull it back out with the video cable attached. Something again is blocking the pull on the right side of the shark fin.
What’s the trick?

Also, the rear camera is a different gen than yours. A bit more compact. I’ll upload a picture once I am done.

 

[SH!FT]

Yeah, please post a pic of what rear cam housing they sent you.


For running the snake to the back seats:
- The snake I used has a blunt plastic tip on the end. Tape up the end to make a similar smooth transition if the one you're using is just a metal loop.
- Note the acre on the snake as it's uncoiled. You want that acre to push the tip down against the headliner as you run it back, so it has less chance of snagging the roof structure above.

For pulling the cable to the front:
Corners on the line are bad. Use tape to build up a smooth/strong transition between the large diameter of the cable pin connector and small snake diameter. Mine could have been better shown below.

if I'm remembering correctly, there's a lip similar to this at the rear windshield just passed the shark fin. Maybe that's what you're snagging.

 

[Sariandan]

Man... I wish I had known about this before I got my new dash cam. I'd love one with a more OEM/subtle look.

I'll have to remember it for the future, for sure. Nice write-up. Thanks!

 

[RTFM]

Thanks, that gives me some perspectives. With my luck (and love for beer), I probably ran straight to/through one of those bottle opener clips. It really blocked hard, even tough I had done a fair job at taping things smooth. I was mesmerized.
I’ll try it again soon. Can’t be that unlucky twice.

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