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Bolts backing out/ broke

justa16yote

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I have a 2016 Mustang GT, and recently about a week and a half ago, when I would press on the brakes to slow down, it would make a metal grinding noise, and turns out one of the bolts holding the rear caliper backed out, and one didn’t take much force to break loose, which I fixed that, but at the same time I noticed the rear subframe nearest to the muffler (on the rear drivers side) was sagging down a little, and turns out that I thought that the subframe bolt was gone or backed out, turns out the bolt broke. I don’t know how it broke or when it broke but I need to find a way to get it out, anyone have a way to get it out?

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ice445

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Whoever did your lowering spring install should be slapped lol. That's gonna be awful to try and fix. Hopefully left handed drill bit makes short work of it, but the exhaust will have to be dropped/moved
 
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justa16yote

justa16yote

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Whoever did your lowering spring install should be slapped lol. That's gonna be awful to try and fix. Hopefully left handed drill bit makes short work of it, but the exhaust will have to be dropped/moved
I installed the lowering springs but had everything tightened, installed back correctly, the last place it was at that even messed with that side was the ford dealer when I broke my axle
 

ice445

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I installed the lowering springs but had everything tightened, installed back correctly, the last place it was at that even messed with that side was the ford dealer when I broke my axle
Was definitely them then. I'd make them fix it lol
 
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justa16yote

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Was definitely them then. I'd make them fix it lol
I just bought a new set of caliper bolts, the broken subframe bolt is gonna be the big issue to tackle
 

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ice445

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I just bought a new set of caliper bolts, the broken subframe bolt is gonna be the big issue to tackle
If it broke because it wasn't tightened enough it may not be so bad. My first step would be a punch (get it as centered as you can on the bolt stub), and then a left handed drill bit. If that doesn't work it's not going to be fun.
 
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justa16yote

justa16yote

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If it broke because it wasn't tightened enough it may not be so bad. My first step would be a punch (get it as centered as you can on the bolt stub), and then a left handed drill bit. If that doesn't work it's not going to be fun.
I used an air impact, started it by hand first, and when it got tight, gave it a couple quick hits to make sure
 

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I installed the lowering springs but had everything tightened, installed back correctly, the last place it was at that even messed with that side was the ford dealer when I broke my axle
There are torque specs for everything. I believe the spec sheets are available online for printing.
 

NeverSatisfied

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I used an air impact, started it by hand first, and when it got tight, gave it a couple quick hits to make sure
Those rear subframe bolts thread into sheet metal and soft threads. The bolts are shaped like a thread tap. It’s like they designed it to cross thread.

If you only started them by hand for a few threads then hit them with some 800lb/ft air gun even for a couple Ugga duggas that could way over torque. Or even cross thread and bind up. (Yeah I’ve done it once)

Those 4 bolts are a gentle hand thread all the way down and torque to spec.

That is gonna be an awful repair…
 

NightmareMoon

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You can drop the subframe and then use a cutting wheel to cut a slot into it for a big flat screwdriver. That might do it, assuming its not crossthreaded terribly.

getting enough access to cut a slot into it is going to be the annoying part.
 

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You can drop the subframe and then use a cutting wheel to cut a slot into it for a big flat screwdriver. That might do it, assuming its not crossthreaded terribly.

getting enough access to cut a slot into it is going to be the annoying part.
A Dremel may be helpful, but I'd try drilling it and using an easy-out first. If that doesn't work it will be a pain, for sure.
 

GTP

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I don't know if there is room for a vice-grip to swing, but if there is you could clamp onto any remaining part of the broken bolt to start to unscrew it in stages.

You'd also have to drop the cradle to gain clearance. I made a DIY set of super long all-thread to lower my cradle a lot but without fulling dropping it. If trying that, you would use 3 of the 4 long DIY studs to support the cradle, but without one at the trouble spot.
 
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justa16yote

justa16yote

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It's only 129 foot pound
I gave it a couple quick hits to tighten it, and then a couple more to make sure, I didn’t hold it down the whole way
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