BMR LCA Bearings & Steeda LCA difference ?

[BMR Tech]

To touch on the spacer surface area, we learned along time ago that when Ford uses protrusions on their outer sleeve ends, it is for a reason.

On high load mounts like these, it is always best to make the surface area significantly larger if you are not making your sleeve with protrusions.

Sponsored

 

[Jmeo]

To touch on the spacer surface area, we learned along time ago that when Ford uses protrusions on their outer sleeve ends, it is for a reason.

On high load mounts like these, it is always best to make the surface area significantly larger if you are not making your sleeve with protrusions.

Kelly what protrusions are you referring to? I did not have any on the LCA or knuckle bushings I pressed out. The bushings could be pressed out from either direction. Hope I didn't do something wrong lol

 

[Voodooo]

Kelly what protrusions are you referring to? I did not have any on the LCA or knuckle bushings I pressed out. The bushings could be pressed out from either direction. Hope I didn't do something wrong lol

Kelly is referring to the "spacer" surface contact area where it makes contact with the IRS cradle frame for the bolt hole.
The bigger the spacer contact surface area, the more stability it offers and also produces less stress on the bearing.

 

[Jmeo]

Kelly is referring to the "spacer" surface contact area where it makes contact with the IRS cradle frame for the bolt hole.
The bigger the spacer contact surface area, the more stability it offers and also produces less stress on the bearing.

Ok thanks for clarifying that makes perfect sense

 

[SteedaTech]

Can you please show the data behind this statement?

Please see attached.

 

[Voodooo]

Everyone can argue which bearing housing is better, steel or aluminum. The bottom line is that the bearing will fail before the bearing housing itself. Hell the cast aluminum control arm will fail before the bearing housing no matter what kind of material the bearing housing is made of. The weakest link of the control arm itself is the wall thickness where the bearing housing is pressed into. If the press fit is to tight because of the bearing housing being to big in diameter compared to the control arm bushing/bearing socket inside diameter that alone can raise stress and lead to a fracture and failed control arm.
The bottom line is, both billet steel and billet aluminum bearing housings are way more stronger than the cast aluminum control arm itself. One of two things will fail first.
All the bearing housing is doing is holding the bearing into the control arm. You could get a large bearing to fit into the control arm and eliminate the bearing housing but the weight and price would be stupid.
1) the bearing.
2) the control arm socket wall.

In that order.

This has become such a waste of argument. Much like saying a .060 thick piece of carbon fiber is stronger than a .060 sheet of cold rolled sheet metal.
The carbon fiber is stronger and more ridged. Once you add share to both carbon fiber or sheet metal it changes its strength.

 

[Alloy]

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67958

Here is my thread for the install of my LCAs. I think all of the products available are about a 1000 times better than what Ford tried to pass off on us. You can see in my post, the stock bushing is dismal. I chose simply based on price, well and a tad bit on materials. I prefer my suspension parts to be made of steel alloys for the simple fact, most suspension see some degree of deformation under load. Aluminum has a finite fatigue life. If sized right it is almost infinite, but not infinite. With steel, especially the right grade, and size, it can have an infinite fatigue life. If the car is not going to be serviced like a race car and the weight penalty is not substantial, then I choose steel.

In this situation. I think all of the parts are over kill, so choose the one that trips your trigger. I do like the bearings that have mechanisms for retaining the bearing in the A-arm, but in all reality if you get to the point you need to use these mechanisms, things are failing anyway.

The thing I noticed MOST, is once this bushing is changed the rear shock and spring rates are way off, and the ride is a bit on the bouncy side.

I am considering the Steeda bearings, but stopped short of ordering them based on the statement above regarding the bounce. I will be using these with stock PP dampers which have no ability to make adjustments. Tell me about the amount of bounce you've encountered please.

 

[DAVECS1]

Well a couple things to take into consideration.

I have the GT PP
I have but in the BMR Delrin Bushing kit for the rear Cradle
I also have the BMR Lockout kit
I have Boomba billet verticle links.

With all of these modifications, the LCA bearing was the last to go in place. Once installed, there was no mistaking the car handles much more confidently. BUT I have noticed the rear has a tendancy to cycle quite a bit on bumpy roads. I think this can easily be fixed with coil overs or adjustable shocks.

I don think it is as much the bearing's fault as much as with all the flex and rubber bushings stock, the spring rate in the rear of the car from the slop was much different.

I personally think if uou are going to be doing any spirited driving it would be wise to replace this bearing and several other components in the rear suspension.

 

[Voodooo]

The last parts you need to worry about are vertical links and toe links. If you install the Ford performance toe bearings, a LCA bearing, cradle bushings / diff or lock out kit you're good to go.
Vertical and toe links don't offer much gain.

 

[Jmeo]

The last parts you need to worry about are vertical links and toe links. If you install the Ford performance toe bearings, a LCA bearing, cradle bushings / diff or lock out kit you're good to go.
Vertical and toe links don't offer much gain.

I concur and this time I did not change from the stock vertical and toe links. Honestly I feel no loss in performance keeping them stock compared to my last car where I did change them.

 

[Alloy]

Well a couple things to take into consideration.

I have the GT PP
I have but in the BMR Delrin Bushing kit for the rear Cradle
I also have the BMR Lockout kit
I have Boomba billet verticle links.

With all of these modifications, the LCA bearing was the last to go in place. Once installed, there was no mistaking the car handles much more confidently. BUT I have noticed the rear has a tendancy to cycle quite a bit on bumpy roads. I think this can easily be fixed with coil overs or adjustable shocks.

I don think it is as much the bearing's fault as much as with all the flex and rubber bushings stock, the spring rate in the rear of the car from the slop was much different.

I personally think if uou are going to be doing any spirited driving it would be wise to replace this bearing and several other components in the rear suspension.

I have installed Eibach Pro springs and FR strut tower brace.
I have waiting to be installed:

BMR Vert Links
BMR Lockout kit
FR Knuckle bearings
Eibach Sways
Steeda 2 point lower brace

So the last 2 pieces i haven't decided on were the LCA bearings and Steeda Subframe Alignment kit. Liek i mentioned earlier, I was about to hit the place order button on the LCA bearings...I'm just not a fan of bouncy suspensions.

 

[wildcatgoal]

From experience, this is what tamed my rear suspension after I installed my LCA bearing:
- obviously having adjustable shocks are great, have those
- delrin vertical link (read: not a spherical vertical link)

No knock on the BMR spherical vertical links that I had - nothing wrong with them, nice product, expected benefits are there - but I went with Steeda's (delrin) to see if I could tame it back there and it worked. I got to a point where I couldn't adjust my shocks to tame it, I tried adding back in some bushing. Still very tight, no trace of wheel hop still, but just that nudge toward compliance that I wanted. This also reduced noise (clunks) that I had to expect when adding so many spherical bearings to a suspension.

Your mileage may vary.

 

[BMR Tech]

Please see attached.

Again, we use 7075-T6.

Curious - do you assist with development and testing of your product?

I agree with [MENTION=7033]Voodoo[/MENTION] about this stuff being moot....but I'm not going to sit and let my competitor make false and inaccurate claims when our product is involved.

:cheers:

 

[jburgess1379]

Hope this doesnt make my car bouncy. Getting this and the frpp toe knuckle bearing soon. Have steeda fixed struts & shocks, sway bars, irs braces, k subframe brace, strut braces. vertical links, linear springs.

 

[tj@steeda]

[MENTION=15182]jburgess1379[/MENTION] ... which one are you getting, enough with the suspense

TJ

Sponsored