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Front LCA bearings questions

Bluemustang

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I find myself confused about the existing front LCA bearings on the market and what they are supposed to replace.

My understanding is there are front and rear control arms on the front suspension. Cortex sells LCA bearings as does Steeda. Are these parts designed for the same location or no?

Is anyone selling assembled control arms with bearings in place? What if I want to replace all of them with bearings?

I am coming from a non-PP GT so it has no bearings on them. I guess my question is: for what location is the Cortex and Steeda bearings for and what is the purpose / rationale behind it? Why not just replace all the bearings on both arms?
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Ryan P

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Yes, the Steeda and Cortex parts are for the same location. Up until recently, only Cortex offered the front lower control arm bearing. Also, as far as I know, Cortex only sells them as a kit together, front and rear. Steeda is the only other game in town for front LCA bearings. Steeda, BMR, Cortex, etc. offer replacements for the rear.

The benefit of these bearings is taking all of the play out of the control arm to increase response and reduce the rubbery feel of the stock components. Also the suspension geometery can change dynamically as the stock bushings yield, these prevent that from happening. As you said, it makes sense to do all the bearings at the same time, but up until recently (with Cortex being the only offering), that was quite costly to do.

I don't believe anyone sells complete control arms with bearings installed. To be honest, it's not that bad of a job for the DIY'er. The fronts should be real easy.

*edit* watch this video. You can see the bushing moving all over the place.

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BMR Tech

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Brey-Krause caught it very good. This is on a road course, but should show you how much deflection there is. It is A LOT - just like the rears when those are being pushed hard. Unfortunately, we have been using upgraded FLCA pieces for a long time now - but development of so many products for so many platforms has really set us behind on some select part #s.

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Bluemustang

Bluemustang

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Brey-Krause caught it very good. This is on a road course, but should show you how much deflection there is. It is A LOT - just like the rears when those are being pushed hard. Unfortunately, we have been using upgraded FLCA pieces for a long time now - but development of so many products for so many platforms has really set us behind on some select part #s.

Damn I kinda wish BMR produced those FLCAs for the general public. I want to get the Steeda bearings but I'm kinda feeling like I want to wait until BMR's come out because I am also planning to do the CB006 front subframe chassis brace also (as we've talked about). I'm sort of taking my time at this point because I have my suspension fairly well sorted!

I want to really do my research the rest of the way. Along with the front control arm stuff, I also plan to add some rear camber arms to basically eliminate any remaining deflection or change in dynamic camber settings.

Btw, Kelly- I could not access the BMR camber arms through your mobile website just an FYI for you and your team.

***Edit: I do see the BMR camber links on the mobile site! Never mind what I said above.
 
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wildcatgoal

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There are already bearings on the front lower (rear of front suspension) control arm at both connection points. The front upper control arm (front of front suspension) has a bushing at the inner connection point. You simply remove that arm (which will not affect alignment), press out the bushing, press in the new bearing. I suppose I can make a video on how to do this. You'll see if you get under the car it's not rocket science. Just pressing out that bushing will require a hefty press because I'm hearing from OPMustang.com that the OEM bushing in there TIGHT even on brand new control arms.

I have Steeda's bearing, it's beautiful (see later pages in my build log) and will be doing the swap shortly. Cortext sells them for the exact same places as Steeda and were first to market with the front bearing and I think the rear IRS control arm bearing as well. Also, you don't have to wait for BMR to offer a bearing - Steeda and Cortex and also J&M bearings can be on cars that have BMR's bracing... I know this because, well, it's obvious. You'll be okay. ;)

Some options for those that don't want to do the swap themselves:
1) You can PM Mike D (SteedaTech) and Steeda will acquire new control arms and press the bearing for you, it's just not a service they want to get into advertising and posting on their site because they'd be dependent on Ford to supply parts, which has it's troubles. You just have to make the request - you'll be charged a shop fee for the bearing swap and obviously the price of the control arms, but you'd pay the same at your local mechanic, so... what's the difference?

2) OPMustang.com (see here) will sell a complete assembly with a J&M bearing, but you'll have to wait as he has to buy the control arm, wait for Ford to send him the part (which can take a while), press out the bushing, press in the bearing, and then mail it to you. Just anticipate it taking a minute and don't bitch.

3) Send your bearings and control arms to me, hell... I'll do it for good price. Haha. JK... I don't know you!

So... the marketplace already has y'all covered. Go forth.
 
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Damn I kinda wish BMR produced those FLCAs for the general public. I want to get the Steeda bearings but I'm kinda feeling like I want to wait until BMR's come out because I am also planning to do the CB006 front subframe chassis brace also (as we've talked about). I'm sort of taking my time at this point because I have my suspension fairly well sorted!

I want to really do my research the rest of the way. Along with the front control arm stuff, I also plan to add some rear camber arms to basically eliminate any remaining deflection or change in dynamic camber settings.

Btw, Kelly- I could not access the BMR camber arms through your mobile website just an FYI for you and your team.
First one to get those bearings pressed into an arm for sale will get my money. Not dealing with pressing those damn bearings anymore unless its sold pressed in :D.
 

Mootang

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There are already bearings on the front lower (rear of front suspension) control arm at both connection points. The front upper control arm (front of front suspension) has a bushing at the inner connection point. You simply remove that arm (which will not affect alignment), press out the bushing, press in the new bearing. I have Steeda's and will be doing so shortly. Cortext sells them for the exact same place.

OPMustang.com (see here) will sell a complete assembly, but you'll have to wait as he has to buy the control arm, wait for Ford to send him the part (which can take a while), press out the bushing, press in the bearing, and then mail it to you. It's not a Steeda or Cortex or BMR bearing product installed, it is from J&M. I prefer to have the Steeda bearing.

I suppose I can make a video on how to do this. You'll see if you get under the car it's not rocket science. Just pressing out that bushing will require a hefty press.
Just saw this and going to OP now, thanks!
 
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Bluemustang

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There are already bearings on the front lower (rear of front suspension) control arm at both connection points. The front upper control arm (front of front suspension) has a bushing at the inner connection point. You simply remove that arm (which will not affect alignment), press out the bushing, press in the new bearing. I suppose I can make a video on how to do this. You'll see if you get under the car it's not rocket science. Just pressing out that bushing will require a hefty press because I'm hearing from OPMustang.com that the OEM bushing in there TIGHT even on brand new control arms.

I have Steeda's bearing, it's beautiful (see later pages in my build log) and will be doing the swap shortly. Cortext sells them for the exact same places as Steeda and were first to market with the front bearing and I think the rear IRS control arm bearing as well. Also, you don't have to wait for BMR to offer a bearing - Steeda and Cortex and also J&M bearings can be on cars that have BMR's bracing... I know this because, well, it's obvious. You'll be okay. ;)

Some options for those that don't want to do the swap themselves:
1) You can PM Mike D (SteedaTech) and Steeda will acquire new control arms and press the bearing for you, it's just not a service they want to get into advertising and posting on their site because they'd be dependent on Ford to supply parts, which has it's troubles. You just have to make the request - you'll be charged a shop fee for the bearing swap and obviously the price of the control arms, but you'd pay the same at your local mechanic, so... what's the difference?

2) OPMustang.com (see here) will sell a complete assembly with a J&M bearing, but you'll have to wait as he has to buy the control arm, wait for Ford to send him the part (which can take a while), press out the bushing, press in the bearing, and then mail it to you. Just anticipate it taking a minute and don't bitch.

3) Send your bearings and control arms to me, hell... I'll do it for good price. Haha. JK... I don't know you!

So... the marketplace already has y'all covered. Go forth.
Thanks wildcat. To just address your first statement: the front lower control having bearing at both ends. Is this only true of a Performance Pack car?

And yes I am aware that Steeda parts along with BMR parts should not be a problem. I have a collection of Steeda, BMR and Ford Racing parts on my car already so I've been doing some mixing lol
 

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Thanks wildcat. To just address your first statement: the front lower control having bearing at both ends. Is this only true of a Performance Pack car?

And yes I am aware that Steeda parts along with BMR parts should not be a problem. I have a collection of Steeda, BMR and Ford Racing parts on my car already so I've been doing some mixing lol
Yes.
 

wildcatgoal

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And yes I am aware that Steeda parts along with BMR parts should not be a problem. I have a collection of Steeda, BMR and Ford Racing parts on my car already so I've been doing some mixing lol
I just said that as a joke because, well... if you look at my build log (hahahaha... not much mixing going on). :lol:
 

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So decided not to go with OP yet since they use the J&M bearings. I would also prefer Steeda or BMR bears at the moment. Will wait it out again or talk to Steeda later about having them pressed into a PP arm.
 
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Thanks Bmac. The main point of my questions were to address any major differences between the Cortex and Steeda offerings but it looks like they are the same thing.

So I will need to go back to my old thread in which you and Kelly suggested I buy the PP arm and then get the bearing pressed into the other side. This will be a cheaper and more effective way of accomplishing my goal. Then I'm gonna throw on the CB006 as well.

Now just gotta wait for some extra cash and time in order to do this.
 

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Why is buying new arms cheaper? Or more effective? Don't get that.

And if you don't have a PP car, the PP control arm with the air defector fin for the rotors isn't going to do much for non-PP rotors (which have a different cooling vein approach).

I'm not aware of the non-PP arms being "less strong" or otherwise inferior.
 

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Why is buying new arms cheaper? Or more effective? Don't get that.

And if you don't have a PP car, the PP control arm with the air defector fin for the rotors isn't going to do much for non-PP rotors (which have a different cooling vein approach).

I'm not aware of the non-PP arms being "less strong" or otherwise inferior.
Easier, less car downtime. I am also looking at buying take-off arms on ebay, bringing them to a shop to have the bearing pressed in, and then doing the relatively quick swap of the arms myself.

Agreed that there's no reason to get the PP arms necessarily, but they're about the same price for take-offs.
 
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Bluemustang

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I think Kelly said that one of the arms is the same as the non-PP but the other arm has a bearing on one connection point with the PP. So my thinking is the Steeda bearing will go on the other connection point of that arm. Correct?
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