Best setup?

[Hoooch7173]

Looking for some advice. I have a 2017 GTPP and I'm looking to upgrade the suspension. It just doesn't seem tight enough for me. Minion will never see the track, but I am however a very very spirited driver and am also looking to achieve the mean "I'm coming for you stance" This is the first change I'm looking for in the car along with the Solo Performance growl that's going with it. Any thoughts? It's all appreciated. Thank you in advance.

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[whalesalad]

You're gonna get a lot of mixed opinions here on brand due to the various allegiances, but a popular setup is usually approximately 1" on all four corners of drop, and 1" (25mm) spacers to get a flush/aggressive appearance.

Having just went through a big suspension do-over on my Mustang, a lot of the options are fresh in my mind.

It really boils down to these general strategies, from cheapest/simplest to most-expensive/more-advanced:

• Lowering springs. BMR, Steeda, CJPP, Swift, Eibach and many others make springs. You need to decide on the kind of rate you want, the drop front/rear, as well as whether you want linear or progressive. Linear springs have a constant rate as the spring squeezes. Progressive springs get stiffer as the spring collapses (hence why they tend to have a |\/\ / \ / appearance vs |/\/\/|
• Springs + Shocks/Struts. A lot of the same stuff applies from above, but when you pair with aftermarket struts the interaction/dynamics between spring and shock/strut are going to change the behavior of the ride. Costs more but with the right pairing, you will have a better driving experience.
• Springs + Shocks/Struts + Supporting mods. Same as above but add-on all the other goodies to remove slop/deflection in the various OEM parts. Replacing bushings with bearings, replacing arms with mor adjustability, camber plates, etc..
• Coilovers + supporting mods. This is a lot more expensive but will also offer you more adjustability. The coil body is threaded so you can set ride height on each individual corner. The damper usually has adjustable rebound, sometimes compression etc... There is a wide spectrum of coilover, some are cheap and ass garbage and others are really pricey and can even offer electronic damper adjustment.

Most folks with a PP tend to grab some simple lowering/performance springs to start. I started with the BMR SP080 but didn't enjoy the rake (which is by-design) and have since transitioned to Steeda parts (sitting in my garage waiting to be put on) Try springs out, its like $200-400 depending on who you go with and will really improve the feeling of the car.


You're gonna hear a lot about BMR and Steeda from folks on the forum. There are other brands but they tend to be the most popular! Do some research and good luck!

 

[5.0_SD]

I have a mix of a lot of different companies products and I love how my car ride and handles (see sig). As @whalesalad said, you will get many different opinions and yes yes yes please research a ton before you purchase. You also have to ask yourself are you going to track it, drag it, or what...also, is it a DD? (mine is). Calling @BmacIL

 

[tj@steeda]

Give us a call & ask for Mike D. He is one of our tech experts & can answer your suspension related questions - you will get many opinions on the subject.

P.M. coming.

TJ

 

[Nagare]

I'll start with saying don't go with the most popular one on AM (the Sportlines). I had them on my car and while it looked good, it ended up being too low for me and somewhat unpredictable to control. I've got Steeda Sport Linears now and they're great with my fixed Pro-Actions, probably even better with the Adjustables. This ties in to what whalesalad mentioned in his first bullet, I like the linear spring better than progressive (Sportlines).

For supporting mods, I got camber plates right away (went with Steeda to match my shocks/struts) because it is highly recommended for drops of 1" or more to make sure you're able to get the camber back in to spec.

I also just had Steeda adjustable sway bars (front and rear) installed yesterday and man oh man does it feel good now. That ties in to your spirited driving but not going on a track. I don't know about NH, but we have some nice curves on certain pieces of highway and other empty roads around here and it just feels so much better now than it did before I had the sways. Night and day difference there and definitely recommend doing that.

For your stance, I definitely agree with the 25mm spacers. It fills it out a lot better and is a cheap mod ($100 for the set if you shop around, you can get the Coyote brand on Amazon for a bit lower than that - don't pay AM $200).

You'll get good feedback from the guys on this forum and I'd definitely say it is better to get opinions here than trusting number of sales on American Muscle (plenty of people on our local FB group have moved on from Sportlines as well).

Here's a pic of my car on the Steeda Sport Linears from a few weeks ago. I added 1/4" spacers to the rear now so it is a touch more even all around, but no pics yet.

 

[BmacIL]

BMR SP763 springs
BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit
Steeda billet rear shock mounts

Start there with your existing shocks and struts and see how you like it (you'll like it a lot). There's always more that can be improved for handling, but most won't need anymore than that to love how the car drives. [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] is always available to support.

 

[cjldad]

You're gonna get a lot of mixed opinions here on brand due to the various allegiances, but a popular setup is usually approximately 1" on all four corners of drop, and 1" (25mm) spacers to get a flush/aggressive appearance.

Having just went through a big suspension do-over on my Mustang, a lot of the options are fresh in my mind.

It really boils down to these general strategies, from cheapest/simplest to most-expensive/more-advanced:

• Lowering springs. BMR, Steeda, CJPP, Swift, Eibach and many others make springs. You need to decide on the kind of rate you want, the drop front/rear, as well as whether you want linear or progressive. Linear springs have a constant rate as the spring squeezes. Progressive springs get stiffer as the spring collapses (hence why they tend to have a |\/\ / \ / appearance vs |/\/\/|
• Springs + Shocks/Struts. A lot of the same stuff applies from above, but when you pair with aftermarket struts the interaction/dynamics between spring and shock/strut are going to change the behavior of the ride. Costs more but with the right pairing, you will have a better driving experience.
• Springs + Shocks/Struts + Supporting mods. Same as above but add-on all the other goodies to remove slop/deflection in the various OEM parts. Replacing bushings with bearings, replacing arms with mor adjustability, camber plates, etc..
• Coilovers + supporting mods. This is a lot more expensive but will also offer you more adjustability. The coil body is threaded so you can set ride height on each individual corner. The damper usually has adjustable rebound, sometimes compression etc... There is a wide spectrum of coilover, some are cheap and ass garbage and others are really pricey and can even offer electronic damper adjustment.

Most folks with a PP tend to grab some simple lowering/performance springs to start. I started with the BMR SP080 but didn't enjoy the rake (which is by-design) and have since transitioned to Steeda parts (sitting in my garage waiting to be put on) Try springs out, its like $200-400 depending on who you go with and will really improve the feeling of the car.


You're gonna hear a lot about BMR and Steeda from folks on the forum. There are other brands but they tend to be the most popular! Do some research and good luck!

You haven't installed those new springs yet?!
I'm waiting on you to give me your opinion on your change..
What are you waiting for man?

To answer the OP.. There are a lot of things to take in to account when changing your suspension.. I like the idea of the BMR springs as they are only a little higher in spring rate compared to the PP springs.. Means I can probably run the stock shocks/struts without much problem and many people do run them that way.

The only limiting factor on them is they lower the rear 1/2".... Like whalesalad is going through.. His had more gap in the rear than the front when done.. Tire setup makes a difference as well.. Square vs staggered.

Good luck, there are a couple threads on here with people showing off their setups.

 

[BmacIL]

You haven't installed those new springs yet?!
I'm waiting on you to give me your opinion on your change..
What are you waiting for man?

To answer the OP.. There are a lot of things to take in to account when changing your suspension.. I like the idea of the BMR springs as they are only a little higher in spring rate compared to the PP springs.. Means I can probably run the stock shocks/struts without much problem and many people do run them that way.

The only limiting factor on them is they lower the rear 1/2".... Like whalesalad is going through.. His had more gap in the rear than the front when done.. Tire setup makes a difference as well.. Square vs staggered.

Good luck, there are a couple threads on here with people showing off their setups.

The minimum drop fronts fix this. SP089 or the full SP763 set.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2165131&postcount=1700

 

[whalesalad]

[MENTION=32370]cjldad[/MENTION] was in Hawaii for my honeymoon! Rears are going on this weekend. Got my spring compressor for front but it’s friggin cold here in Michigan still.

 

[cjldad]

[MENTION=32370]cjldad[/MENTION] was in Hawaii for my honeymoon! Rears are going on this weekend. Got my spring compressor for front but it’s friggin cold here in Michigan still.

Hey, congrats man.. Rub some icy-hot on your stuff and get to work on that car.. Ha!!!

The minimum drop fronts fix this. SP089 or the full SP763 set.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2165131&postcount=1700

True, forgot to mention those.. Again, there are many options..

 

[Aubrey]

I just put in the Ford Racing suspension pack, engine brace and the Ford shifter. It made an enormous difference compared to the PP setup.

Highly recommended, like a new car!

 

[Bluemustang]

If you’re going for looks, then there’s a large number of options in terms of springs. If you’re going more for performance, I would not recommend lowering the car a whole lot. The suspension geometry is sensitive particularly in the rear. I would rather a 3/4” drop something along those lines. The lower COG will improved handling but without messing up geometry too bad.

So depending on what your priority is, a lot of different options would work for you. Personally, I like the BMR SP763s as an option for you. But if that’s not enough of a drop, I also like the Steeda Sport Springs ~200-800 rates I believe front/rear, 1” drop. I like the rates of both of these springs and 1” drop of the Sports won’t mess up geometry too bad. Although I do prefer a lesser drop than 1” which is why I changed my springs. But I care more about handling performance rather than looks. Although a great stance was just a bonus.

Personally I prefer a linear rate to a progressive rate. It lends to a much more direct and predictable handling feel. Progressives have their purpose and achieve that purpose (sort of) but it didn’t work for me.

If you want a larger drop and you could look into the Eibach Sportlines or the Steeda Ultralites. The Swift Spec Rs have great reviews (they have a much stiffer front rate and a softer rear). The rear is more penalized for ride so a stiffer rear spring rate might be undesirable in some cases. But if the ride frequency is well matched and you have good dampers, you can still get a good ride even though the overall rates are higher.

Since you’re asking for best setup I’m gonna say BMR SP763, Ford Racing shocks and struts, CB005 and Steeda billet shock mounts. You’ll have a great riding car and significantly improved handling from the stock car. And a relatively flat good looking stance, albeit more subtle and not eye popping.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Mean stance with a spread of spirited driving...coming right up:

Steeda Ultralite Spring & ProAction Dampers Review

Steeda Shock Mounts & Sway Bar Review

I drive the most intense roads in the World for a hobby, and I was very particular on which setup I went with based on daily drive-ability, smooth highway performance for long road trips, and intense corner carving. You won't be disappointed.


[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]5Oa86MLhBEI[/MEDIA]"]My Car Modification YouTube Video[/ame]

 

[Houston Kid]

I went with the Steed Pro-Action non-adjustable and their progressive springs. Car rides nice, a little stiff in the rear on some big bumps, but great otherwise. Handles way better than factory and very nice on highway driving. Get on it in a corner and the car handles great.

It lowered the car just enough, but not over the top.

I do need to upgrade my sway bars. It's on the list. LOL. The never ending list it seems.

 

[BMR Tech]

BMR SP763 springs
BMR CB005 cradle lockout kit
Steeda billet rear shock mounts

Start there with your existing shocks and struts and see how you like it (you'll like it a lot). There's always more that can be improved for handling, but most won't need anymore than that to love how the car drives. [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] is always available to support.

Since you’re asking for best setup I’m gonna say BMR SP763, Ford Racing shocks and struts, CB005 and Steeda billet shock mounts. You’ll have a great riding car and significantly improved handling from the stock car. And a relatively flat good looking stance, albeit more subtle and not eye popping.

X3

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