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Best Radiator For boost?

G.T.

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Stock PP radiator here. Big air to water IC up front and working AC. Also have Ford Performance water pump and 170 stat. Street duty and drag racing is no issue, in any temp.
How much does the FP water pump contribute to this, in your experience?
 

80FoxCoupe

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How much does the FP water pump contribute to this, in your experience?
It's difficult for me to quantify as I really didn't have a cooling issue. Street driving and drag racing was covered by the base gt radiator and pump. When I built a new engine, I put on the FP pump and PP rad. Maybe some of the road race guys have some relevant data with respecttp larger radiator and FP water pump. @honeybadger maybe?
 

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G.T.

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It's difficult for me to quantify as I really didn't have a cooling issue. Street driving and drag racing was covered by the base gt radiator and pump. When I built a new engine, I put on the FP pump and PP rad. Maybe some of the road race guys have some relevant data with respecttp larger radiator and FP water pump. @honeybadger maybe?
Thanks for elaborating on this.

I've been interested in it seeing it coming from FP, who in general dont put out much fluff IMO.

I did see a member here post he put one on and specifically mention it, by itself, showed a noticeable improvement in average CHT for him.

The big track time CHT thread also has a lot of great discussion on cooling mods, or those interested.
 

robvas

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There's a couple ways of looking at this.

"My car runs too hot"

What does that mean? Is it overheating? Boiling over? Or is it hotter than where you want it to, or think it should run?

A supercharger on a stock Mustang is not going to overheat. If it's hot enough out and you stay on the throttle long enough, it might get up there. But you're likely going to run out of road before that happens. Or blow the motor up from being at 7000 RPM in whatever gear for 2 minutes straight.

Now, your car might get up to, say 220 degrees (not a real number, just for the point of discussion). That might freak you out. But that also might be within the range of operation for your car. The 190 degree thermostat from the factory and the factory programmed cooling fan speeds keep the car in that range.

Is that the 'best' for your car? That's up to you. Certain things perform better at lower temperatures. You're less likely to see detonation. Your car might pull timing at certain temperatures.

On the other hand, the engine is designed to run at a certain temperature so it might not seal up quite as tight when it's colder. Your oil might not get hot enough to evaporate water from it.

The stock radiator does a decent job. You might be able to get where you want to be by just changing the cooling fan speeds, and maybe a lower thermostat.
 

diambo4life

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I have an SVE radiator in mine. I just thought I should upgrade my stock radiator when I went forced induction. I thought it looked ridiculously puny but many people run on the stock radiator just fine. I just did it because I was already in there. It was on clearance because it was missing the petcock drain so got it for a steal...brand new. No RAGRETS.
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