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Make sure to pressure test your fuel system, coolant and oil systems before putting everything back together because Murphy's law says that you will get a leak from that one fitting or hose that you need to remove 200 things to get access to. Has happened to this 🙋‍♂️guy! Looking good...

None in my Mustang....but again, I don't go speeding around, plus it's a death trap on the street wheels/tires lol. That alone is a deterrent from pinning the right pedal down.

First photo is the Day I bought it in 2020 BONE STOCK (except the Roush axleback and a Barton shifter) right before Covid craziness and the other photos is what it looks like now.

Don't worry about it.

How many wires are going to the actual stock fans? 2? 3?

I have an SVE radiator in mine. I just thought I should upgrade my stock radiator when I went forced induction. I thought it looked ridiculously puny but many people run on the stock radiator just fine. I just did it because I was already in there. It was on clearance because it was missing the...

I am disappointed in this thread. You 2nd guessed your choice because of sound? SOUND? ☠☠☠ Whipple is the superior kit, by far.

Man...everything is so tight in there. I hope your heat mitigation is on point because these cars sure as heck like to cook the engine bay. Do you have a vented hood? BTW...amazing progress. I check every 2-3 weeks and you're making killer progress each time, which is great.

Where are some dragys? I hope you have some sticky-ickys...

I have owned a Whipple F150. It was quick in a 5600lb land whale. It would be very fast in a 3800lb Mustang.

Get a crew cab F150. It's versatile. You can carry your fishing gear in it, it has space for the baby AND you can make it a hotrod. My old F150 below. Made 955whp. 10.1 in the 1/4 mile on the street. 100% stock engine and 100% stock trans. All the street manners....and your grandma could drive...

You have a breach somewhere. Boost leak test and check the reservoir for bubbles.

I always use manifold or the intercooler pipe (post FMIC) as the source for boost reference. It works best from there in my experience in several platforms.

Oklahoma here...

100% trans

Did you not measure the clearance for your TOB when you installed your trans? It needs to be within a certain window to operate correctly.

OKC

This morning. OKC. E15 88 is about $0.15 cheaper than E10 87. My Mustang and DSM both run on E85 all year around. That is less than $3/gall. Around $2.79/gall last time I filled up. The no ETH kstuff is probably up there. I don't even look at that.

I see you have HPT. Any particular reason you didn't use ProLink? That's how I log it in my Gen 1.

I will have to go and recheck my old logs. I distinctly remember not seeing full boost on that setup until the upper RPMs. The boost curve was not flat. I know it was something I didn't care too much about....but the 10R80 helped mask some of that.