Best Radiator For boost?

[Zrussian13]

Running in the 210s shouldn't be a problem. The motor was designed to operate at those temps. It sounds like we are trying to find a problem to justify our solutions at this point.

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[andrewtac]

Running in the 210s shouldn't be a problem. The motor was designed to operate at those temps. It sounds like we are trying to find a problem to justify our solutions at this point.

Agree, but this is short pulls going 210+. I looked at some old logs that had similar OATs and the highest I got on a 1/4 pass was 216. Cruising was 185ish, short pulls it would go high 190s. My concern is if I do a full run it will top 220+, CHTs will be 230+; probably won't kill it. With the stock radiator and new intercooler it was 200+ cruising and would go 220 on a hit, 230 cht. So it was an improvement and probably good enough, it isn't really good boost weather anyways; I am sure once it cools off some it will be better.

 

[Angrey]

Agree, but this is short pulls going 210+. I looked at some old logs that had similar OATs and the highest I got on a 1/4 pass was 216. Cruising was 185ish, short pulls it would go high 190s. My concern is if I do a full run it will top 220+, CHTs will be 230+; probably won't kill it. With the stock radiator and new intercooler it was 200+ cruising and would go 220 on a hit, 230 cht. So it was an improvement and probably good enough, it isn't really good boost weather anyways; I am sure once it cools off some it will be better.

My car steady states at between 189-192 depending on ambients. On a 15 minute drive in stop and go traffic lights, if the fans weren't artificially going it would climb to 220+. With the fans going, it'll still climb to 205+ just limping the motor between lights.

I don't care what Ford says, the danger zone for the CHT is when the temps exceed the maximum boiling point for the coolant mixture. Meaning if you have hot Aluminum at 250F and the coolant at 1.5 bar will boil at 233F, you have a situation where you get localized boiling/voids in the coolant as the coolant makes contact with significantly hotter channels and galleys.

So I'd say if you're running straight water (which boils around 233F at 1.5 bar) then I'd be VERY VERY concerned with CHT's above that as it's bound to cause local voids.

50/50 mix raises the boiling point (at 1 atmosphere) from 212F to 223F, so I'd have to look up the BP at 1.5 bar (gauge) but crudely it's probably about an 11 degree pickup (so around 245F).

I'd be much more cautious about CHT's if I was running straight water. But even with 50/50 I'd get real concerned when the CHT gets to 240F+.

Also keep in mind that the motor oil viscosity breaks down pretty badly as it spikes and of course, these CHT's are almost always under the worst/harshest loads/conditions (high rev) so a concurrent concern would be delta T between the oil before it crosses the cooler and after it returns. Looking at the location of the EOT sensor, it's measuring the temp just prior to going back into the motor (so already after the cooler) so the real local EOT's are markedly higher.

I don't really worry about CHT's until they go 235F+ then it's time to stop whatever is going on or limit it as much as possible.

 

[andrewtac]

Thanks, intuitively 230 was my no higher than number that I had in my mind that I did not want to see. I hadn't really thought it all out like you describe but my thoughts were generically in that direction. I am not sure what ratio I am running, I emptied the radiator, replaced and filled with water and water wetter. There was still antifreeze in the motor/heater, probably closer to 80/20. I do change oil at 2500 mile intervals to help with this, E85, and it isn't that expensive.

 

[gimmie11s]

There is a mix of info in this thread that is important to point out.

Most people on this forum will be talking bout CHT numbers (cylinder head temp) because these cars do not display ECT (engine coolant temp) in stock form. However, I run ECT full time on my nGuage.

CHT runs 10-11 degrees HIGHER than ECT, so keep that in mind.

If your CHT is in the 220 range, you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

Once CHT hits 230+--its time to slow it down or come to a stop so the car can cool down.

 

[andrewtac]

I read both, was referencing ECT, CHT is usually about +10 to ECT once warmed up; and yes that is the one that concerns me when I am approaching 230

 

[Jackson1320]

pulling the thermostat will make it run cooler at least it does if i pull mine. heater on heater off makes no change on my car. should run at thermostat temp with or without heater on. if not then you need to why. the heater is acting like a additional radiator. your car is telling you that you need additional cooling

 

[andrewtac]

pulling the thermostat will make it run cooler at least it does if i pull mine. heater on heater off makes no change on my car. should run at thermostat temp with or without heater on. if not then you need to why. the heater is acting like a additional radiator. your car is telling you that you need additional cooling

I believe some ducting on the front will help, the intercooler nearly blocks the entire radiator now. If I force the air coming in the grill to go through it, it will probably help a little (which is all I need). The larger radiator helped some, it lowered it a little and the recovery seems to be faster than it was with the stock one.

 

[19VelocityBlueGt]

Wrapped headers along with heat products header blankets. And new csf radiator along with upgraded intercooler pump. My cylinder head temp was avg @185-187 didn’t get above 190 not once. (Already had 170 t-stat) Went for drive. Even let it heat soak while I ran into Walmart. Recovered way faster than before! Car is running great!! Everything combined really cooled everything down!! Seems like the radiator helped with trans temps even. Especially my iat’s average around 107 degrees with outside temp of 85-87.. Thsnks for everyone’s input. Heat kills!! Cooler temps =Mo Powa!! Especially with 90+ Temps

 

[19VelocityBlueGt]

I have a pp1 radiator I would sell pretty cheap to someone with a base car.. If anyone is interested.

 

[tosha]

I read both, was referencing ECT, CHT is usually about +10 to ECT once warmed up; and yes that is the one that concerns me when I am approaching 230

@gimmie11s , @andrewtac , I'm sure you guys know, that unless you have installed a dedicated coolant temp sensor, ECT that you see on ngauge is a calculated value based on real CHT reading. This ECT may or may not be be close to accurate depending on the Ford's formula for calculation.

There is a massive thread on engine cooling with tons of great data: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-time-limited-due-to-high-cht.166499/

 

[andrewtac]

I didn't realize it was inferred from CHT. But cht is what I am concerned about and it is directly affected by ECT.

 

[roger1981]

Old thread but I got the upgraded PP1 / GT350 radiator with fans for sale with only 3500 miles on it in excellent condition, if anybody has a base model looking to upgrade. This is also in the Marketplace for sale under Bolt Ons. Will sell cheap, make offers.

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