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BmacIL

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You go ahead and put it in if you want to..
When I go track the car I will use Redline oil, which not only has excellent HTHS for the weight (highest I've seen for a 5W30, higher than or as high as many synthetic 5W40s), but higher than avg ZDDP for a modern synthetic. Mind you, it's not anywhere near 2000+ ppm like a lot of racing oils.

I have 69k miles. Engine is running great and I'll make sure it continues to even under track use.
 
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stangman638

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When I go track the car I will use Redline oil, which not only has excellent HTHS for the weight (highest I've seen for a 5W30, higher than or as high as many synthetic 5W40s), but higher than avg ZDDP for a modern synthetic. Mind you, it's not anywhere near 2000+ ppm like a lot of racing oils.

I have 69k miles. Engine is running great and I'll make sure it continues to even under track use.
Im not talking about your oil, I meant a specific additive on top of your oil. Huge reason why ford used Carbon in the XL-17.
 

BmacIL

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Im not talking about your oil, I meant a specific additive on top of your oil.
The ZDDP is the same as most additives being referred to.
 
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stangman638

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Do not use a zinc additive in your new car, it immediately clogs the catalytic converters..
I'm curious why Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil would clog the catalytic in a car, but not the catalytic in a Diesel powered truck or car.
 
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stangman638

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I'm curious why Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic oil would clog the catalytic in a car, but not the catalytic in a Diesel powered truck or car.
I don't know, I do know racing oils, most times Im sure were made in mind of putting it into a race car that is catless.

I was going to put the additive in until a reputable mechanic locally said not to, and sure enough I google it, and he was right.

Maybe these guys explain it better. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2863902
 

bootlegger

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https://www.catalyticconverters.com/damage/

Not going to post the thousand articles already in existence about it. Metals are not good for cats.

"Beginning in 2006, a rapid phaseout of ZDDP in engine oils began."

Go ask a mechanic.
Rotella T6 has been used in cat equipped vehicles for years, and you don't hear about excessive failure.
It is also not true that all metals kill cats. Technically, the zinc in ZDDP isn't killing the cat at all, it's the phosphorous given off by the chemical reaction. All it does is bond to the metal catalysts in the converter and neutralize it. It stops the chemical reaction and makes the cat useless. Personally, I am not too worried if my cat slows or stops converting. SC doesn't have inspections or emissions testing.
Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricobonyl (mmt) has been used in gasoline for decades without issues. That was something I worked with in my previous company, and we had hundreds of thousands of test hours in modern vehicles. After all these tests, we ended up with zero cat failures. Let's not push sweeping generalizations here.
 

bootlegger

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I don't know, I do know racing oils, most times Im sure were made in mind of putting it into a race car that is catless.

I was going to put the additive in until a reputable mechanic locally said not to, and sure enough I google it, and he was right.

Maybe these guys explain it better. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2863902
Did you read the answer there:
"phosphorous and zinc can poison the catalyst. Clog is a term used incorrectly."
"Metallic adds in oils, if the oil is burned and sent through, can plug and coat catalyst sites and pores where active sites ma be present. Just like soot or hydrocarbons. But generally the concern is about poisoning."

Unless you are burning excessive oil, metals aren't plugging your cat. The reason ZDDP was phased out, was due to it rendering catalysts useless (something the EPA isn't happy about).
 

engineermike

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Oddly, the cj4 version of rotella t6 carried the SN rating, meaning suitable for modern gasoline engines. It had 11-1200 ppm phosphorus (more is better for engine protection, up to about 1400). The later ck4 version of t6 actually cut the phosphorus content down to about 1000 ppm, supplementing with boron anti-wear agents, and also REMOVED the gas engine SN rating, though this was a decision they made not based on technical reasons. As far as I can tell, current t6 still meets the api SN requirements.

For comparison, most SN oils are below 800 ppm phosphorus. Acea a3/b4 oils are designed for high-performance gasoline engines with catalytic converters and those oils are not allowed to have less than 800 ppm phosphorus because they prioritized engine protection higher than SN does. I run pennzoil platinum euro 5w40, which carries a3/b4 rating and about 900 ppm phosphorus.

Fwiw, ZDTP is an old, but extremely effective anti-wear compound. It builds up a tough protective layer on wear surfaces. To this day, they haven’t found a replacement that performs as well.
 

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accel

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Oddly, the cj4 version of rotella t6 carried the SN rating, meaning suitable for modern gasoline engines. It had 11-1200 ppm phosphorus (more is better for engine protection, up to about 1400). The later ck4 version of t6 actually cut the phosphorus content down to about 1000 ppm, supplementing with boron anti-wear agents, and also REMOVED the gas engine SN rating, though this was a decision they made not based on technical reasons. As far as I can tell, current t6 still meets the api SN requirements.

For comparison, most SN oils are below 800 ppm phosphorus. Acea a3/b4 oils are designed for high-performance gasoline engines with catalytic converters and those oils are not allowed to have less than 800 ppm phosphorus because they prioritized engine protection higher than SN does. I run pennzoil platinum euro 5w40, which carries a3/b4 rating and about 900 ppm phosphorus.

Fwiw, ZDTP is an old, but extremely effective anti-wear compound. It builds up a tough protective layer on wear surfaces. To this day, they haven’t found a replacement that performs as well.
It feels like it is time to blend your own oil + additive mixture. You can get ZDDP in car parts store.
 

engineermike

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It feels like it is time to blend your own oil + additive mixture. You can get ZDDP in car parts store.
I would generally recommend against that because additives compete for surface area and, specifically, the majors have spent lots of time and money balancing additive packages to optimize them. Also, there are different flavors of every type of additive (there are lots of types of ZDTP, for instance). If you tell me your goals, I can generally find something commercially available that’s pretty close.
 

accel

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I would generally recommend against that because additives compete for surface area and, specifically, the majors have spent lots of time and money balancing additive packages to optimize them. Also, there are different flavors of every type of additive (there are lots of types of ZDTP, for instance). If you tell me your goals, I can generally find something commercially available that’s pretty close.
Goals? Tick prevention. So far ceratec does it. And it also builds protective layer.
 

engineermike

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Goals? Tick prevention. So far ceratec does it. And it also builds protective layer.
Haha, that’s not really what I meant. I would have to know the definite root cause of the tick before choosing an oil and I think that’s up for debate at this point.
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