B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[grhmw]

I completely agree. I formed a woodblock wrapped in pleather (fake leather) to wedge in to keep mine from moving around. I got the idea from FreePenguin on here and it keeps it nice and tight.

I was wondering how to secure it. You got a pic on the wedge and where you put it? It will give me and idea.
Thanks

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[m3incorp]

Here you are. I currently don't have it all the way back against the seat because I'm waiting for my dynamat sound deadener to arrive. Once it arrives, I will push it further back. But look closely at the top of the subwoofer enclosure and you will be able to see it. You can not see the wedge without bending down into the trunk and looking for it.

I was wondering how to secure it. You got a pic on the wedge and where you put it? It will give me and idea.
Thanks

 

[FreePenguin]

since its a rectangle, we can flip it either way, he has his tall wise and he used the upper shelf with a little wedge. I have mine sideways, and its back a little further, I use the other shelf behind him.


him and I are twinning.

 

[Bitten in '69]

Just finished up doing this swap, using the Pioneer sub. I'd like to make a couple of suggestions that might make it easier.
The OEM clips can be removed without cutting the wires. Unlock the white plug end with a small screwdriver. Then, use a heavy needle to depress the retaining clips that hold the wires in place. The metal ends of the wire fit in the speaker terminal holes, and make a good connection.
For the replacement sub, I used tin snips to cut the holes into slots. I flattened the rim so the the OEM screws could be used.
Reassembly was pretty easy. However, to hold the outer trim piece in place, I used velcro tabs.
Hope this helps.

 

[Elp_jc]

JL Audio quality is a big step above Pioneer. Here is the link.

Thank you for the info, but that sub has a single voice coil, according to the specs. That means that you're only feeding it either the right or left channel, rather than both. You had me all excited about that sub. Ha ha.

 

[m3incorp]

The Voice Coil

A voice coil is the coil of wire around the former (tube) attached to the apex of the speaker cone. The voice coil provides the motive force to the cone by the reaction of a magnetic field to the current passing through it.

A single voice coil has one winding coil and a dual voice coil has two separate windings. Since both coils are energized, they perform the same as one with no difference other than wiring connection options.

The Dual Voice Coil Advantage
Most car amplifiers provide specified amounts of power (wattage) at common impedance ratings measured in ohms. The MTX THUNDER1000.1 mono channel amplifier for subwoofers is rated at 350 Watts wired to 4 ohm impedance load (speaker combination), 600W RMS at 2 ohms impedance load, and 1000W RMS at a 1 ohm load.

A 2 ohm, single voice coil sub has a fixed 2 ohm impedance rating, so would draw 600 watts from this amplifier. The same 2 ohm sub with a dual voice coil would offer 1 ohm and 4 ohm connections, depending on whether you wire the two voice coil terminal pairs in series or in parallel. Choosing the 1 ohm wiring method for this sub would make 1000 watts available from the same amplifier.

Happy hunting

Thank you for the info, but that sub has a single voice coil, according to the specs. That means that you're only feeding it either the right or left channel, rather than both. You had me all excited about that sub. Ha ha.

 

[Elp_jc]

I don't want to mess with that; you connect that wrong, and can at least blow the amp, so I'd only replace the sub with a comparable one, meaning dual voice coils, like I initially stated. Besides, a superior sub like yours might need more power than the (probably crappy) stock amplifier can provide anyway (even if it was dual voice-coil), so the Pioneer is probably the best suited sub for our stock cars. Not as nice, but definitely nicer than stock, and probably better suited for the stock amplifier power. But thanks anyway.

EDIT: Should I leave the poly-fil (8-oz) with the Pioneer sub, or remove it all? Thx.

 

[m3incorp]

That would be a guess without knowing the true interior volume of the stock enclosure. I probably would give it a try since you already have it in there.

I don't want to mess with that; you connect that wrong, and can at least blow the amp, so I'd only replace the sub with a comparable one, meaning dual voice coils, like I initially stated. Besides, a superior sub like yours might need more power than the (probably crappy) stock amplifier can provide anyway (even if it was dual voice-coil), so the Pioneer is probably the best suited sub for our stock cars. Not as nice, but definitely nicer than stock, and probably better suited for the stock amplifier power. But thanks anyway.

EDIT: Should I leave the poly-fil (8-oz) with the Pioneer sub, or remove it all? Thx.

 

[Elp_jc]

Thank you; will do that. Already ordered the Pioneer yesterday (price dropped to $51, by the way, so probably in clearance levels now, so better hurry guys). Should get it in 2 weeks, even with Prime, so probably shipped from overseas? Hope to get it installed the way I want, without issues. Need to look into the wiring, so hopefully the pictures are still up, to save them, now that I ordered it. Thanks again for all your help.

 

[FreePenguin]

Thank you; will do that. Already ordered the Pioneer yesterday (price dropped to $51, by the way, so probably in clearance levels now, so better hurry guys). Should get it in 2 weeks, even with Prime, so probably shipped from overseas? Hope to get it installed the way I want, without issues. Need to look into the wiring, so hopefully the pictures are still up, to save them, now that I ordered it. Thanks again for all your help.

I mean 51 dollars, thats a night out for dinner. Is definitely worth trying. Amazon you can return if unhappy as well.

 

[m3incorp]

Sounds like a good plan, and you really can't go wrong for $51.

 

[Elp_jc]

Indeed . Hey gang, did you do anything to the bare wires before connecting them to the new sub? Hopefully there's no need. And then I can just twist together black and purple and connect to (-), and green and yellow to (+), right? Bought a solder pen a while back, but don't have any flux, and have no idea what to buy.

At any rate, I need input on which installation method to use. Here are the 2 I'm considering, since I had to throw away the 'decorative' stock trim piece, and I want to use the stock bolt holes:
1. Extend the sub mounting holes all the way out (cutting the 'lip' too, since it's right on top of the stock holes) with a Dremel cutting wheel, then clamp it down with the stock grille. The only problem left is which bolts to use. Does the sub come with them? Otherwise would have to find bolts of the proper thread and length.
2. If the grille doesn't sit well over the sub, to clamp it solidly, I'd then have to bolt it down directly, and I'd do that by grinding the lip enough on each hole to be able to fit a washer, to have enough surface to clamp it down correctly. I'd also have to find washers of the same thickness of the sub metal ring, cut 3 in half, and glue the 6 halves next to the stock holes, so the washers clamp the sub solidly, rather than getting tilted to the outside, only clamping the very edge of the weaker metal now with no lip. Hope I'm making any sense. Ha ha. Then, I'd somehow glue the Pioneer 'ring' over the sub... IF possible, so it doesn't look like crap.

If I had the stupid decorative ring, I'd just do what the OP did, and call it a day... but I don't. So have to do it differently. The main thing is for the sub to be solidly mounted, so it doesn't rattle at all. Oh, hope it comes with the foamy seal the OP showed. If it's not included, I'd greatly appreciate a link where to buy it, to order it now. The sub will take 2 weeks to get here, even with Prime, so not sure where the heck is coming from. Received today the shipping notification, so it's probably not in the US. I'm getting the other crap Friday. Thanks gang.

 

[Bitten in '69]

Did you see my reply #184? If you took your time to take the connectors apart, then the ends slip right into the terminals.
With dual voice coils, there are two sets of terminals. No twisting wires together.
If you slot the speaker holes as I suggested, you can reuse the original speaker cover and screws.
If you destroyed the trim ring, you'll have to get creative to fill the area.

 

[Elp_jc]

Excellent news; thank you. Glad to hear I won't have to cut the wires (will probably destroy the connector though), and that the stock grille fits fine, because the Pioneer ring wouldn't cover the bolts/washers. Were you able to use the crappy stock screws? By the way, what I did to make the sub look better was to paint black those ugly screws, and to grind off the studs where the decorative trim attached to. So it should look just like now, which is not bad. And I saved some weight, to offset all of the Steeda braces and rails. Ha ha.

 

[Elp_jc]

Got the sub today, gang. I was expecting the 100 version, since I live in the US, but received the 250, which requires a lot more power. This thing is massive; it probably weighs 10 times more than the puny stock sub. It says on the back it requires 400W RMS, and 1,300 peak. Is it even worth installing it? Does anybody know how much power the stock amp makes? I wouldn't be surprised if it's 80W max. Is it going to drive a 400W RMS amp without overheating? I feel like I'm putting massive 35" tires on a Suzuki Sidekick (remember those?) with an anemic 1.3L engine (ha ha). Thanks gang.

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