At-home method for measuring toe with Toe Plates

[GTP]

This post is one of a multi-part series for DIY alignment measurement and adjustment.

Slotting the strut for more camber
At-home method for measuring camber
At-home method for measuring toe with Toe Plates (this post)
Tips for easily adjusting Camber and Toe between street and track settings
Review of Rear Camber Adjustment Kit (Steeda or J&M camber arm brackets)
My DIY Wheel Cribs
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Longacre camber plates are one of my favorite and often used tools.
They are quick and easy to use and they are only $75.

Basically, you measure the width between the two plates behind and in front of the tires by sighting the markings on the tape measures exposed at the slots.

Just be sure that your original alignment is square with the car first. I use the Caliper Garage string alignment kit. I believe it is better than a Hunter alignment, but it takes a couple hours to complete. Also, be sure you fully understand toe and camber theory basics, and that they are interrelated.

Toe [delta inches] = Rear measurement - Front measurement​

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Example:​

Rear tape = 75 3/4", Front tape = 75 5/8"​

Delta inches = 1/8" toe-in​

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For toe in degrees, the math is​

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Toe [degrees] = Tan-1 {Toe [delta inches] / Slot spacing [inches]}​

The spacing of the Longacre plate slots is 22"​

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Therefore,​

Toe [degrees] = Tan-1{1/8" / 22"} = 0.32 degrees​

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If you prefer, I found an Toe online calculator that does this conversion for you.​

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It is possible to change the toe with the car on the ground. Easier after turning the steering to full lock. I purchased these wrenches to make it even easier at the track. The 5-sided wrench ($13 off eBay) is wide and stays aligned on the large 24mm nut better than a crescent wrench.

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[kz]

Series of good posts Philip. Camber measurement with zeroing the gauge off the floor is pretty brilliant.

 

[GTP]

Series of good posts Philip. Camber measurement with zeroing the gauge off the floor is pretty brilliant.

Hey thanks, KZ. We should get together sometime. Invite some others in the IN/OH/KY area.

I thought the magnetic gauge would be great by just zeroing it in the 90-degree orientation and then magnetically clipping it to the rotor. But it kicked my ass over and over trying to get consistent and repeatable measurements. I really didn't want to suspect the gauge, and in spite of its low cost.

Ultimately I tried zeroing it at the straight-up orientation, and voila! I started getting reliable measurements.

Also, at first I used a 2-foot level positioned on the floor at the centerline of the car. That was still not a sufficient "reference plane". Then my engineer brain fully kicked in and I thought up the idea to establish a reference plane close to the tires, which required purchasing the 6-foot level. And this is why you really don't need a flat, level floor.

It was those two techniques that made this all work out.

Also of note: I took my car to Belle Tire which offers free alignment checks. Their numbers were close to mine, although I honestly believe my own more than theirs!

 

[WD Pro]

Series of good posts Philip. Camber measurement with zeroing the gauge off the floor is pretty brilliant.

Yes, I am also enjoying these posts

I have some basic kit at home that I was considering adapting for the Mustang and attempting my own alignment - I think these posts might be enough to push me to finally do it ...

Here is how I did toe on the kit car, but it wouldn't work on the stang ... !

Ref the camber, I used my gauge like this (zeroed across the chassis tubes) :

But it's way too big to get that through the Stangs PP1 wheels (and my disks are now lipped). I made a wheel adaptor for the gauge which would work well for the stang

Please keep the posts (my motivation) coming

WD

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