At-home method for measuring camber

[GTP]

This post is one of a multi-part series for DIY alignment measurement and adjustment.

Slotting the strut for more camber
At-home method for measuring camber (this post)
At-home method for measuring toe with Toe Plates
Tips for easily adjusting Camber and Toe between street and track settings
Review of Rear Camber Adjustment Kit (Steeda or J&M camber arm brackets)
My DIY Wheel Cribs
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Measuring camber at home is tricky. After some trial and error of various techniques, I finally developed a method that I trust.

First, the floor does NOT have to be level to use this method. It also does not have to be especially flat.

I put down two flat and smooth (3/4" thick MDF) boards to establish a reference surface next to the tires.
I laid a 6-foot level ($14 at Harbor Freight) onto the boards.
I put a small square magnetic angle gauge ($12 off eBay) on top of the level and near one end. I zero the gauge. Then I hold the gauge against the rotor to read the camber.

I repeat for the other side. With this technique, the gauge reads zero at the other end of the level without having to re-zero the gauge. This is a measurement validity check.

IMPORTANT NOTE
I had a lot of trouble getting consistent and repeatable measurements when I set the gauge down in the 90° position, zeroing the gauge, and then magnetically clipping the gauge to the rotor. Too bad.

In theory, if you DID have a perfectly flat floor, you could use the simple method pictured here, and do the math. Camber = Tan-1[Offset / (contact point spacing)]. In this example the tire is offset from the framing square by 9/16", and the lower contact point is 1.5" above the floor. So, Camber = Tan-1[0.56" /(24 - 1.5)] = 1.4°.
I actually drove around to a couple parking garages in search of a flat floor, and this technique was not too bad.

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[lo-fi]

Not bad OP, but fortunately I have a level garage floor (good enough) and bought my wheel clamps and long acre gauges years ago. Nice and easy, but yeah, a bit more money. I think the below are worth it, particularly if you have multiple cars.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07532CB8M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003750D7U

 

[WD Pro]

Not bad OP, but fortunately I have a level garage floor (good enough) and bought my wheel clamps and long acre gauges years ago. Nice and easy, but yeah, a bit more money. I think the below are worth it, particularly if you have multiple cars.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07532CB8M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003750D7U

I did a homemade version of your first link - I might try and snap some photos later

WD

 

[shogun32]

Shouldn't we move these threads to DIY or suspension tech?

 

[GTP]

Shouldn't we move these threads to DIY or suspension tech?

Yeah, perhaps.
I could post links there, pointing back to here. Doesn't require a moderator that way.
Although you will recall that the last time I tried that method, the mod edited the title and moved my DIY-type thread into the Exterior mods forum. Also, the risk of that method is people respond to the link post directly rather than following it and posting there.

I guess I was thinking that track guys might go through all the trouble that are in this series, whereas the street guys might not.

What do you think?

 

[shogun32]

Maybe just do a single post in Suspension and/or DIY back to these threads rather than tempt the moderator gods to do it wrong. I think your read of the audience is accurate.

 

[GJarrett]

...
IMPORTANT NOTE
I had a lot of trouble getting consistent and repeatable measurements when I set the gauge down in the 90° position, zeroing the gauge, and then magnetically clipping the gauge to the rotor. Too bad.
...

I had the same problem (but noticed it was consistent with zero set with the gauge right side up). I gave up, set zero with the gauge right side up, then used simple math addition/subtraction from 90 degrees when I attached to the rotor; i.e., 87.4 degrees equaled -1.6 degrees (87.4-90.0).

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