Sponsored
Scootsmcgreggor
Well-Known Member
I tried this and failed. I set zero toe at -2.8* camber up front (my preferred street setup at the time) with the hope that I could camber in for track days to -3.5* and the toe out would be minimal enough that I could avoid having to adjust toe with camber changes. At least for me, it didn't work out. First session with camber at -3.5 the car was super darty under braking, quite unstable over 100mph. I zero'd out the toe between first and second sessions and the car felt how it should thereafter. I don't recall how much it was toe'd out but whatever it was it was sketchy AF under braking.
And Ewheels is mostly correct camber with zero toe has minimal impact on tire wear to and from the track. If you drive a thousand or more miles between track events then even with zero toe 3.5* camber will wear your tires, but if its just a couple hundred miles you won't notice much additional wear from the street miles. One track session will be worth a few thousand street miles ;)
And Ewheels is mostly correct camber with zero toe has minimal impact on tire wear to and from the track. If you drive a thousand or more miles between track events then even with zero toe 3.5* camber will wear your tires, but if its just a couple hundred miles you won't notice much additional wear from the street miles. One track session will be worth a few thousand street miles ;)
VictorH
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2021
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 640
- Reaction score
- 921
- Location
- South Carolina
- First Name
- Victor
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Mach 1
Super useful to know. How much did you need to adjust the toe arms? 1/4 turn, 1/8 turn, just a quick guess as to the amount to how to turn the toe arms to get back to neutral.
Scootsmcgreggor
Well-Known Member
It was at least a quarter turn, a bit more I believe.
sigintel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2015
- Threads
- 62
- Messages
- 2,050
- Reaction score
- 1,080
- Location
- Republic of Texas, God's Country
- First Name
- Ray
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 GT
@boardkat
If you are preloading camber for that much body roll, you might need way stiffer sway bar front and rear?
Assuming you are hitting at least 40 psi hot front:
If the centers of your tires have tons of tread left and the inside and outside are getting overheated or heavily worn,
then you are not keeping the contact patch stable enough to make use of the tire.
In additional to more sway bar, Increasing caster can help as it adds dynamic gain in camber on both sides of the car.
It helps if you can take pictures of tire wear immediately after coming off track.
Preferably from multiple angles.
If you are preloading camber for that much body roll, you might need way stiffer sway bar front and rear?
Assuming you are hitting at least 40 psi hot front:
If the centers of your tires have tons of tread left and the inside and outside are getting overheated or heavily worn,
then you are not keeping the contact patch stable enough to make use of the tire.
In additional to more sway bar, Increasing caster can help as it adds dynamic gain in camber on both sides of the car.
It helps if you can take pictures of tire wear immediately after coming off track.
Preferably from multiple angles.
Sponsored
Last edited:
