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Assembling an Engine… any tips?

GregO

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I will look into the ceraktote aswell.
You will need to remove the rings to media blast the piston surfaces before applying the at home toxic toaster oven coating.
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tdstuart

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You will need to remove the rings to media blast the piston surfaces before applying the at home toxic toaster oven coating.
Even the air dry stuff I have to sand blast the pistons?
 

K4fxd

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Even the air dry stuff I have to sand blast the pistons?
Yes. If you want the pistons coated send them to a pro. If not applied properly it will flake off and ruin your engine.
 

K4fxd

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I see it like you have 2 choices. Either put it back together as is or totally rebuild it.

Rebuild would require sleeving the block so you can hone the cylinders for the new rings to seal. Possibly having the block bored and then having a company respray the plasma coating . Hopedully that company can also hone the cylinders to size. 3rd option is to buy a new block from Ford.

Putting it back together would be the easiest and cheapest route. Use the new bearings as long as they are in spec. I am thinking they will be a touch loose. .002 to .003. That is fine just don't use 5w-xx oil.

If you removed the old bearings and did not number them, toss them in the trash.
 

GregO

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Even the air dry stuff I have to sand blast the pistons?
The pistons you have are burnished to the bores. Don’t do anything to change the piston surface Ra. (Roughness Average)
I’ll say it again;
If you are retaining the Coyote oil jets there is no reason to apply additional thermal barrier coatings or piston skirt DFL. Even if you decommission the oil jets and keep the HP levels reasonable you’ll be ok without the added piston coatings. If you bought new pistons that are coated you’ll have something extra to talk about at your next park and talk event.
 
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tdstuart

tdstuart

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The pistons you have are burnished to the bores. Don’t do anything to change the piston surface Ra. (Roughness Average)
I’ll say it again;
If you are retaining the Coyote oil jets there is no reason to apply additional thermal barrier coatings or piston skirt DFL. Even if you decommission the oil jets and keep the HP levels reasonable you’ll be ok without the added piston coatings. If you bought new piston that are coated you’ll have something extra to talk about at your next park and talk event. Or what it is now Cars and Coffee Friends style……… LOL
Is their any point to removing the piston cooling jets?
 
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tdstuart

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I see it like you have 2 choices. Either put it back together as is or totally rebuild it.

Rebuild would require sleeving the block so you can hone the cylinders for the new rings to seal. Possibly having the block bored and then having a company respray the plasma coating . Hopedully that company can also hone the cylinders to size. 3rd option is to buy a new block from Ford.

Putting it back together would be the easiest and cheapest route. Use the new bearings as long as they are in spec. I am thinking they will be a touch loose. .002 to .003. That is fine just don't use 5w-xx oil.

If you removed the old bearings and did not number them, toss them in the trash.
The point of buying the motor was to avoid machine work and build a good motor for cheap.

I have a gen2 block with a messed up cylinder. It would need to be bored and new bigger pistons would need to be purchased. I bought the gen3 block for the higher compression and it was cheaper than machining my gen 2 block.

Sleeving prices are too expensive and out of reach for me, or I probably would have done a sleeved gen2. Maybe even mmr stroker kit just for fun. But unfortunately I am a broke college kid
 
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tdstuart

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That’s drag racer stuff when removing the oil jets.
So no real benefit for me?

Wouldn't it also mean that I couldn't push the motor hard for too long?
 

K4fxd

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So no real benefit for me?
The oil jets help control detonation, something you want with the higher comp ratio.

Just put it back together put it in your car and update this thread with a pic of you smiling.
 

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If the Pistons are out of the engine you replace the rings. Then the con rod bearings cause you already removed them from the engine. While you in there the crank bearings too. Really, it ain't that expensive. Then check, recheck, & check again all the clearances. Also, cleanliness is next to godliness . Dirt on assembly is the #1 killer of new engines.
 

GregO

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So no real benefit for me?

Wouldn't it also mean that I couldn't push the motor hard for too long?
In competitive drag racing oil is friction.
Think of NHRA 500ci ProStock, those guys use about an 8wt oil.
You’ll want the oil jets, they are your friends.
 

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NASCAR uses 0wt. And they're balls to the wall for 3hrs.
 

K4fxd

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NASCAR uses 0wt.
I know they used to use 0 weight. That was back when they had qualifying engines. They would use the 0 weight for qualifying then when they put the race engine in the car it got 40 or 50 weight.
 
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tdstuart

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The oil jets help control detonation, something you want with the higher comp ratio.

Just put it back together put it in your car and update this thread with a pic of you smiling.
Okay sounds good.

Now if only my machine shop would finish my heads :). They have had my block and heads for over 2 months now. Took a month to get a quote, and the work for the heads (machine it flat, valve job) has no end in sight. They are so busy yet have the time to post a bunch of ads on their Instagram...
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