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Assembling an Engine… any tips?

GregO

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anyone that recommends not checking rings, knows absolutely zero.
You’re really reaching to generalize this conversation and change the narrative.
New rings, of course check the gap and file to fit the spec.
Rings installed by Ford at the engine assembly plant that have 26k of run in time with visually excellent cylinder wall surface finish and the rings were gapped for boost by a competent previous owner and you advocate pulling all the used 26k rings again to check end gaps.
Are you saying Ford and the prior owner got it all wrong ?
 
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RAVAGE88

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Wow, reading this thread gave me a headache….eight pages of mostly what to do about gapping rings.

@Jackson1320 is trying hard to help and is offering things likely above what the OP has planned, but if the engine is apart, his recommendations make a lot of sense. I’ve Cerakoted pistons and valves (make sure it’s H Series, thermal cure) and it makes a huge difference. I’ve also painted the interior of blocks (Caterpillar did this for years), but not particularly useful in an Aluminum block.

Bottom line, do your research and seek to understand in an environment that serves your goals. No offense to anyone on this forum, it’s an awesome resource, but, Wow….

MB
 
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tdstuart

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Wow, reading this thread gave me a headache….eight pages of mostly what to do about gapping rings.

@Jackson1320 is trying hard to help and is offering things likely above what the OP has planned, but if the engine is apart, his recommendations make a lot of sense. I’ve Cerakoted pistons and valves (make sure it’s H Series, thermal cure) and it makes a huge difference. I’ve also painted the interior of blocks (Caterpillar did this for years), but not particularly useful in an Aluminum block.

Bottom line, do your research and seek to understand in an environment that serves your goals. No offense to anyone on this forum, it’s an awesome resource, but, Wow….

MB
Yes thread turned into a bit of an arguing match. People have different opinions.
 

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RAVAGE88

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Yes thread turned into a bit of an arguing match. People have different opinions.
Very true, but be wary of the “regurgitation opinions,” they’re not based on actually “doing.” I, for one, would love to see/hear videos of your successful engine build that’s a product of sound research and understanding. Not something that’s worthy of the automotive blooper reels on the internet.

MB
 
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tdstuart

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So end the conversation for us and post up if you’re pulling the rings off and verifying the gap.
You have the ability to settle this discussion.
What’s the risk of checking the ring gap?
 

K4fxd

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If the rings are off the pistons, sure check the gap, if for no other reason than to know what gaps for FI. If they are still on the pistons I would not remove them. Too easy to break one or scratch the piston. If you scratch the ring groove it will not seal.

The rings are worn to the piston and the bore they came out of, they "should" seal up.

Personally knowing where the engine came from I'd trust the gaps. Looking at the photo of the bearing I'd re-use them also.
 
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tdstuart

tdstuart

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If the rings are off the pistons, sure check the gap, if for no other reason than to know what gaps for FI. If they are still on the pistons I would not remove them. Too easy to break one or scratch the piston. If you scratch the ring groove it will not seal.

The rings are worn to the piston and the bore they came out of, they "should" seal up.

Personally knowing where the engine came from I'd trust the gaps. Looking at the photo of the bearing I'd re-use them also.
Should I not just replace the bearings? I already have the new ones.
 

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RAVAGE88

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Should I not just replace the bearings? I already have the new ones.
Bottom line, treat it as a new engine build. The “shoulds,” “mights,” “it’ll be fines,” “that’s good enoughs,” “the Ford way,” and “the seller knew what he was doing,” isn’t how an engine is built. Don’t trust Ford, the seller and especially, the internet crap.

Erase the “it only has 26,000 miles on it“ bs and start from scratch. Otherwise, you’re not building an engine, but instead, doing exactly what the thread title says and “assembling” an engine but I’d edit the title to: “Blindly Assembling an Engine….Any Tips On Ensuring The Likelihood It’ll Be Screwed Up?”

Throw the rings away, throw the bearings away and really build the engine….from scratch.

But that’s just my opinion….

MB
 
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K4fxd

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That’s a very good opinion but at the end of the day it does not fit the scope and budget of TDSTUART.
He should have never took it apart. The only proper way to rebuild a gen 3 block is to sleeve it or buy a new one.
Should I not just replace the bearings? I already have the new ones.
Check the clearance on the rods and mains. If within spec use the new one's.

Basically just get everything as clean as you can and bolt it together. Or take it to a machine shop and have them assemble it. If they will.

It was a running engine when you took it apart it should run after you put it together. Providing you install everything correctly.
 

GregO

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He should have never took it apart. The only proper way to rebuild a gen 3 block is to sleeve it or buy a new one.
Agreed, unfortunately there’s no taking that back now.

Off topic, isn’t there any companies respraying PTWA cylinders ?
Flame-Spray comes to mind,
https://flamespray.tech/services/
I understand the reasons to sleeve for big power motors but have we arrived at a point where the Gen3 block is single-use only ?
 
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tdstuart

tdstuart

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Thanks for all the advice.

I see where you guys are coming from, but it's also a learning experience for me, even if it's an expensive one.

I think I will just replace the bearings and I will probably just leave the rings alone. I will look into the ceraktote aswell.
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