Are my nuts too tight?

[DougS550]

yikes, that's not just wet, that's lubed. Unless you have a datasheet that says otherwise, take 20% off dry specs.

I have lots of bacon grease. I use it on my lathe and mill when cutting aluminum. I guess there are worse things wafting thru the air when the brakes get warm than the smell of fresh bacon...

Grease like this also calls for reducing from dry settings.

Here is one Chart I found: Dry stud torque to Assembly Lube Stud torque, the actual amount of Over Torque on the studs and wheels is quite excessive to say the least. Yikes!!
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

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[DougS550]

Here is one Conversion Chart I found, but I dont know how close it relates to Wheel Studs? might be close
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

 

[shogun32]

this one is a bit more directly useful. By "convention" dry and clean is regarded as having a K-factor of 0.2. Heavily lubed (anti-seize, greases) as 0.15 etc.

For our wheel studs 72Ksi * 2.1 = 151 ft/lb
So a heavily greased stud, you're looking at ballpark 150 * (0.15/0.2) = 112 ft/lb

or if you just want a handy chart.
https://rtstools.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Torque-Tension-Chart-for-Metric-Fasteners.pdf

Somewhere here there is a long-ass thread discussing the same damn thing!
ahh, https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-nut-torque.25477/page-2#post-2722799

 

[DougS550]

this one is a bit more directly useful. By "convention" dry and clean is regarded as having a K-factor of 0.2. Heavily lubed (anti-seize, greases) as 0.15 etc.

For our wheel studs 72Ksi * 2.1 = 151 ft/lb
So a heavily greased stud, you're looking at ballpark 150 * (0.15/0.2) = 112 ft/lb

or if you just want a handy chart.
https://rtstools.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Torque-Tension-Chart-for-Metric-Fasteners.pdf

Somewhere here there is a long-ass thread discussing the same damn thing!
ahh, https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/wheel-nut-torque.25477/page-2#post-2722799

Thanks for this chart. My only concern about using a lube or anti seize grease is, a dry lug and dry stud have friction, which will inherently prevent loosening during driving. Having anti sueze grease on them removes this friction and can allow the lugs to back out due to harmonic vibrations. Just my thoughts. Thanks

 

[shogun32]

Thanks for this chart. My only concern about using a lube or anti seize grease is, a dry lug and dry stud have friction, which will inherently prevent loosening during driving. Having anti sueze grease on them removes this friction and can allow the lugs to back out due to harmonic vibrations. Just my thoughts. Thanks

which is also precisely why we don't lube the damn things.

if your threads are beat up then chase them with a die and wire-brush and hose down with brake cleaner. Or replace the studs. If your nuts have been off and on a bunch of times and are recalcitrant, replace them or chase them with a tap if it's minor.

If you choose to lube (eg. MolyKote 1000) then you need to be religious about checking torque on a regular basis for any sign of backoff.

 

[Andy13186]

Just FYI torque sticks dont work with electric impacts, they hit too fast.

 

[stars_fan]

Make sure to coat the studs in blinker fluid. Then it doesn’t matter if in the air or on the ground.

 

[Rapid Red]

I would not/never use any lubricants on the lugs.

 

[mkcotton]

I've anyways torqued my lug nuts on the ground. Was told since my studs and stud nuts are coated, they need to be torqued in the air. I realize they use a lower torque than uncoated but torquing them with no load seems counterintuitive.

I had the same problem. Bought Under Amour boxer briefs, nuts love it.

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