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Arcane Stage 3 fuel system blew a pump fuse

J17GT

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Wrapped up my Arcane stage 3 fuel system install on my whipple car in early April. Did data logging with Wengerd for the e85 tune on a 3.5 pulley. Good to go after one revision.

I go to a test & tune night at the track a week ago on the 3.875 pulley the kit came with. I was testing before a 11.0 index race, so no sense having the car on kill. I data logged the first pass and see the fuel trims adding like 8% fuel. Thought that was strange on this big pulley considering the tune for the 3.5 was pulling some fuel out. I decided to step down to a 3.75 pulley my buddy had. I data log that pass and as expected, it's adding even more fuel and I see lambda a bit leaner than target. I call it a night and send the logs to Wengerd.

He agrees something changed. I did change the fuel pressure gauge the kit came with and messed with the fuel pressure since the original tune because of that junk gauge. Thought was maybe the fuel pressure was too high originally. Wengerd retunes for the 3.75 pulley as I was short on time and didn't need the 3.5 pulley for my event. Gets the fueling in check and off I go. Car runs great at the event, but the driver has done better. haha

I revisit the 3.5 pulley and sent Wengerd a log, yep going lean again. He adds more fuel, no change, still lean. Fuel injectors are at 86% duty cycle (ID1300s) which is way too high for the power the car is making. He suspects fuel pressure loss is the issue... UGH.

I get on the horn with a few of my engineer buddies and I quickly do some tests to check a number of things and determine one of the 274 pumps isn't running. No power to it. Sure enough, one of the 25 amp fuses for one of the pumps blew. No idea when that happened and still not sure why it happened. I replaced the fuse tonight and both pumps are running again. Flashed back to the previous vetted tune from Wengerd and drove the car around the block, checked again, all good.

I emailed Juggernaut to get their thoughts and am waiting for a reply back. I probably have less than 500 miles on this setup and now I'm paranoid of this happening again. Anyone have any ideas on what could be the cause? Sorry for the lengthy post!
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Angrey

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Most common cause of overcurrent is low voltage. The pump draws more current to maintain torque output.

Check your system voltages and ensure you have adequate grounding.

If you pop a fuse it's because the pump is struggling to do what it's being asked.
 
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J17GT

J17GT

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Most common cause of overcurrent is low voltage. The pump draws more current to maintain torque output.

Check your system voltages and ensure you have adequate grounding.

If you pop a fuse it's because the pump is struggling to do what it's being asked.
I grounded both pumps to the seat belt anchor bolt of the rear driver seat. I ground the coating off the chassis with a wire wheel so there was fresh metal showing. I thought that location would be fine for both, but if it's best to split them, I'll have to look elsewhere. Maybe extend one ground wire to the other rear seat belt anchor bolt? The instructions say not to use the FPDM bolt.
 
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Magony15

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I removed the side panel and used the existing factory ground bolt[.
PXL_20240108_011257945.jpg
 

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J17GT

J17GT

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I grounded mine to the seat belt bolt as well.
Mine are under the bolt against the body of the car. I wonder if that makes a difference? I guess I could split the harness and route one to the other seat belt anchor if it pops the fuse again.

IMG_3808.jpeg


IMG_3809.jpeg
 
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J17GT

J17GT

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I removed the side panel and used the existing factory ground bolt
Didn't know that was there, but good to know it's an option. Did you have to extend the ground harness to reach?
 

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I am running one of the other systems, I was paranoid of this happening as well. Pump 2&3 are boost reference triggered. I tied a small wire into the power wires that go to the pumps. I run those to two wire to leds on the pillar. Before i go wot, I usually give the throttle a blip for an ops check and make sure I see both lights. I had blown a fuse before, mine was obvious I had pinched a wire putting the bucket back in; my light caught this. They'd also catch no signal from my boost reference.
 

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HKusp

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Mine are under the bolt against the body of the car. I wonder if that makes a difference? I guess I could split the harness and route one to the other seat belt anchor if it pops the fuse again.

IMG_3808.jpeg


IMG_3809.jpeg
I used a wire wheel to scuff up the threads of the bolt. It seems to be working. Good luck waiting on a response from Juggernaut. I have contacted them several times over my build. NEVER did I get a response. It's a nice kit, but they have a serious lack of customer service, as in none. I would not recommend their company to anyone, based off of their lack of support. Nice kits, but zero support.
 
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J17GT

J17GT

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I am running one of the other systems, I was paranoid of this happening as well. Pump 2&3 are boost reference triggered. I tied a small wire into the power wires that go to the pumps. I run those to two wire to leds on the pillar. Before i go wot, I usually give the throttle a blip for an ops check and make sure I see both lights. I had blown a fuse before, mine was obvious I had pinched a wire putting the bucket back in; my light caught this. They'd also catch no signal from my boost reference.
I have heard of people adding LEDs to ensure the pumps are on. I was debating about using those fuses that glow when they blow. The fuses are easily accessible in the passenger floor kick panel. Right now I have them just laying out on the floor mat. I could easily keep an eye on them. I'm just glad I found the issue running the low boost pulley and I was data logging!

I used a wire wheel to scuff up the threads of the bolt. It seems to be working. Good luck waiting on a response from Juggernaut. I have contacted them several times over my build. NEVER did I get a response. It's a nice kit, but they have a serious lack of customer service, as in none. I would not recommend their company to anyone, based off of their lack of support. Nice kits, but zero support.
I may move them under the bolt head. That anchor plate is hitting the terminal crimps in my photo, so not sure how flush the terminals are to the body of the car.

I emailed Juggernaut twice previously and they did respond. Have not heard back yet.. They seem to be a pretty small operation.
 

Magony15

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Didn't know that was there, but good to know it's an option. Did you have to extend the ground harness to reach?
I don't remember having to extend it. They definitely don't give you extra length with that harness though.
 

HKusp

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Supposedly one single Ti274 will support 900hp. That's what's funny to me. From Walbro's own site, they say that a single Ti274 will support 750+ horsepower, so in theory, losing one pump, we should still be able to run without too much issue. I realize these systems are designed with multiple pumps versus a single pump design, but one would think one of the benefits of using multiple pumps should be redundancy and therefore, safety margin built in.

Screenshot_20240611_090815_DuckDuckGo.webp
 
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J17GT

J17GT

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Supposedly one single Ti274 will support 900hp. That's what's funny to me. From Walbro's own site, they say that a single Ti274 will support 750+ horsepower, so in theory, losing one pump, we should still be able to run without too much issue. I realize these systems are designed with multiple pumps versus a single pump design, but one would think one of the benefits of using multiple pumps should be redundancy and therefore, safety margin built in.

Screenshot_20240611_090815_DuckDuckGo.jpg
I can tell you with proper tuning changes, one pump handled 12psi fine. When I turned it up to 14psi is when it was really starting to struggle at 7000+ rpms. My ID1300s were working hard to supply the fuel, but there just wasn't enough fuel flow / pressure.
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