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My Continental's have been great for me. Also look great and give some rim protection as well. Wish they made a drag radial.

Yes. Cutting out the original is the hardest part. Should be able to get in there to swap out the bad one. Still strange that it broke.

That was differential bolts he snapped in that video.The stud kit from Kelly is for the subframe. It makes it easier to service the subframe components. Pony 92 broke parts doing dumb shit.

Time consuming and a little intimidating. Buy new bushings and the Kelltrac stud kit and shop around for someone local to do the install.

I have the same bushings. Can't imagine them breaking unless the bolts broke first. Best to pull the whole subframe to get full access. Maybe the bolt was cross threaded and finally snapped.

Yes, BLIS worked but CTA didn't work till I plugged in the JR3T-14D453-CC monitors. eBay has them used a lot cheaper than new. It was a while ago but I think I didn't have to do anything special with Forscan. Evidently the full digital upgrade can still work with the 15-17 monitors. At least I...

I had to use the '18 and up blind spot sensors. Bought used ones from a Fusion if I remember correctly. Now how do I get those gauge faces?

I like to reduce clutter under the hood. I installed my Motion Raceworks catch can down low next to the SC inlet. E85 puts out a lot of moisture that requires frequent draining. I drain it through a hole in the splash shield. Also keeping any crankcase fumes as far away from the HVAC inlet as...

Not quite but I'm sure you know that.

Painting the strut brace and overflow tank with a textured black finish goes a long way to improving under hood looks.

My cold start idle fluctuated quite a bit with my Ortiz tune. He had trouble tuning my IMRC's too. I'd look elsewhere.

To keep them from dislodging from the hood and becoming airborne in the event of a collision.

It releases the backrest to flip forward, then back again to the original position without readjusting.

Yes they will rub when you run into dips in the road. I put my PP1 springs back on which are almost as stiff as the BMR's but taller. The Steeda spacers look like they would shift since they don't have a groove to keep them in place.

Someone should 3D print something that will slip over the lug nuts and fill that void. I used some lug nut caps to imitate the 350R lugs as best I could.

Could be the grooves cut into concrete highways. Does it do it on asphalt highways?

Just went through this myself. Deadline is two months away so I figured I'd check with my OBD reader first. Bunch of monitors showing "not ready". Catalyst, O2's, Evap, etc. No CEL's though. Emailed my tuner and he sent me a revision right away. Loaded it and did the ford specific drive cycles...

Quite complex compared to what came stock on my GT. I'd do full replacement with something far lighter than OEM. Especially with something that needs to get high in the powerband quickly. There's some deals out there if you shop around. Just don't go ceramic though. Get a good slave cylinder and...

Just as long as it's the stock temp. I think it's at least a 195. You might have a 160 in there. Get a new o-ring too.

Try a new stock temperature thermostat. It made my catalyst monitor go green.