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Anyone assemble their own short block

kcc0521

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I am thinking about finding a spare block and building it myself. I am curious if anyone on here as done this yet?
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F1scamp

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Well I bought a factory short block. Took it apart and set bearing clearances. For the prices of the factory block, and short blocks, it would be hard to buy a used and get it machined for cheaper..
 
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kcc0521

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Well I bought a factory short block. Took it apart and set bearing clearances. For the prices of the factory block, and short blocks, it would be hard to buy a used and get it machined for cheaper..
What clearances did you set? I thought if the bearing clearances where not right you had to get new ones or machine work done. I have assembled a 302 pushrod motor but that is it. I know the factory short block is cheap but I would like to at least throw better pistons in it.
 

F1scamp

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Rod and Main. Bought 2 sets of bearings, and mix-matched till I got them all on the very high end of spec. I didn't want a repeat. If you can find better pistons that are the same weight as factory it would be easy, but I am not sure if anyone makes them.
 
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kcc0521

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Rod and Main. Bought 2 sets of bearings, and mix-matched till I got them all on the very high end of spec. I didn't want a repeat. If you can find better pistons that are the same weight as factory it would be easy, but I am not sure if anyone makes them.
Did you change the ring gaps? How were the clearances stock?
 

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F1scamp

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No.. wish I had thought about it. The clearances were all in spec, but at a couple were on the low end, which is crazy tight if you ask me.
 

ProChargerTECH

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I am thinking about finding a spare block and building it myself. I am curious if anyone on here as done this yet?
If you have a good machine shop that can do the machining and balance for you, then you will be in luck. And make sure they are well versed in doing coyote's and have the right tools for them. Cause the rest isn't that bad.

But, if the machine work isn't top notch, you will have a LOT of frustration.

All the cars I had featured in magazines, broke records, and went fast... had engines that were all assembled in my garage, on the floor, while sitting on a piece of scrap carpet. I was at the track once and Billy Glidden said he didn't use engine stands, cause it stressed the motors during assembly. So thus, I thought "maybe there is something to that"... and just started doing them on the ground. LOL.

There is plenty of info out there to help you get it done, and its a great learning experience! DO IT! :)
 

MadCow

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All the cars I had featured in magazines, broke records, and went fast... had engines that were all assembled in my garage, on the floor, while sitting on a piece of scrap carpet. I was at the track once and Billy Glidden said he didn't use engine stands, cause it stressed the motors during assembly. So thus, I thought "maybe there is something to that"... and just started doing them on the ground. LOL.

There is plenty of info out there to help you get it done, and its a great learning experience! DO IT! :)
A friend of mine who is an old hot rodder told me the same thing. He said stands oval the back 2 cylinders and all the pros he knew rolled em around on the floor. Might have something to do with how long the engine is on the stand too. Average Joe leaves them on there for months while they assemble something.
 

EFI

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The actual assembly isn't rocket science, you just put some stuff and bolt it together.

Now setting all the clearances and machine work should be done by a machine shop, but if you have all that done and everything is good then the actual assembly is simple. Time consuming yes, but shouldn't be hard for anyone that has decent mechanical skills.

This of course being just the bottom end, the whole longblock is another story with the cams and timing stuff.
 

Blown86GT

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Well I bought a factory short block. Took it apart and set bearing clearances. For the prices of the factory block, and short blocks, it would be hard to buy a used and get it machined for cheaper..
How much did you pay for the shortblock?
 

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1600 for a factory block? Why not just get another set of rod bolts (even upgrade to arp), and re-gap the rings, and just send it?
 

whatsup62

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How does the Aluminator compare to a stock coyote and a "built" shortblock?
 

F1scamp

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1600 for a factory block? Why not just get another set of rod bolts (even upgrade to arp), and re-gap the rings, and just send it?

That was my theory, did not know about the rings butting at the time I did mine. I addressed what failed on my motor (spun rod bearing). This is my daily driver (though I would like it to be a 9 sec d.d.), so I don't think I am too close to pushing the limits :crazy:..

I will have to find the invoice for the motor, a buddy works at a ford dealer, but I am pretty sure he only gave me the standard 10% over cost and it was right around 1600.
 

Stang8psi

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I built my 2011 5.0 long block (pistons and rods) and ran it for roughly 7-8k miles N/A before selling it to a fellow mustang owner and it was then boosted with a Paxton 2200 making high 800’s and then a single turbo making 975 whp.
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