Search results

According to your other thread though, this car should pick up just shy of 600~whp by switching to the non billet turbos and adding 6 psi LMAO

Except it won't be at that speed because all pulley systems slip a bit even if you don't think it is. Which leads me back to, if you're only shooting for 700whp, the 2200sl has more in it. And if you really want more than 800 there's always laughing gas

pretty sure I have blocked whoever you're replying to. Nut huggers can be pretty senseless. You're right about cast turbos. Billet is better, but most people actually won't need it at all.

For a road course car, I don't think you need EGT. I was thinking in terms of sleeved setups and how much power people push with that level of build. If you're doing a road course twin turbo, you just need to make sure your tuner sets the car up well for that. That means have a fat enough...

Bring up? If you're sending the thing on the strip, c85, and plug changes (or at least pulling the plug) every run are what I would call smart. EGT Probe IMHO is the best way to do things. But that requires doing your own research as to what EGT levels you want to see. So its super helpful, if...

Doesn't matter what sleeve you run if it gets put in wrong. Lots of engines with sleeves fail because of installation error, not just on coyotes. Looks like this one shifted a sleeve and motor ate it. That would be my bet. Scary to see someone's 5.2 MMR sleeved block is having issues in here...

I would say forget the blower and get a good turbo kit. You can do so many cool things with VE tuning and a good boost controller. Boost by gear will let you put down maximum power you're comfortable with in each gear. These cars don't have tunable traction control that I know of, but on a 6...

I would call lund. They seem to know these transmissions pretty well, and from what I know work with PBD to figure out more stuff. That's all stuff I've seen online, so I would talk to them directly. I'm sure they know much more than me about all the things they can do via software with the...

Judging by your logs, I think you're right. Doesn't look like phantom knock. Some engines are noisy enough anything is possible. Like Subaru guys sometimes end up just turning off the knock sensors completely (not good idea) because their valvetrain is just so noisy. I knew of an ej25 swapped...

I'm not sure what mods you have, but has anyone looked over your car, or listened to your motor with knock ears? You might just have phantom knock. Sounds like these gen 3's are pretty noisey. Could very well be the case. Just a thought. I haven't even read through the whole thread etc etc etc...

Dipstick is amatuer hour. Send your oil off to get a test done. Do some googling. You'll find the company and learn something in the process.

When do you think we'll see a replica? Or can you get this from shelby somehow? Makes the car look so good, especially with that hood. IKON MOTORSPORTS MAKE ONE

FWIW the 1050x's flow about 5% more according to ID. For flow sake I don't think it's worth the extra cost. And with Direct injection being enough to handle most of the driveability stuff, no real advantage to getting ID's

Well good that you're here to share that experience, hopefully that is all op needs to do. All the guys who I know as the best wrenchers, always start with the basics and work up from there. Probably why they're better than me hahahaha

I imagine lund would have told him to check the plugs already. I mean whenever you're tuning a car you should check plugs when you have any kind of problem (if you're on a dyno like OP). Plugs can tell you a lot after a full pull.

Good eye I didn't see that in the article. Yeah I agree. To be honest the more I look into hellion the more I'm disappointed with the way they do things online. But businesses are there to try to make as much money as possible. Not that I have anything against proper capitalism, but...

On second thought I don't know. I'd like to see the correction factor, and the turbos being used. I thought it was a bit high, but if the car has 6466's then it's entirely possible. Aldo's setup did 1kwhp on 15psi

If it's choking pre turbo, high flow cats, cut outs, and especially mufflers won't help. Choking pre turbo usually means the hot side isn't matched properly. So that could mean too small of an a/r, too small of a housing too... I don't believe the stock manifolds are as bad as people make them...

67 will be great if you don't ever plan on making more power. It will choke up past your 700 number most likely. With t4 you'll get further, I'd go for t4 and biggest a/r you can run. That being said, maybe a 7175 would be a better choice in case you want a bit more power. 76 is quite a big...

Or even egt would be a good teller