Alignment specs for spirited DD

[Norm Peterson]

You're better off measuring what your car actually has. Production tolerances either side of "factory preferred" are huge, like 0.75° either way (saves production costs and later service time)..

Sometimes, an "outlier" sneaks out the factory door, completely outside that. My '08 was one such car.


Norm

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[Elp_jc]

I understand, but not going to take it to a shop for that . I'm happy how it feels, so unless the tires start wearing unevenly, no reason to take it this new (just shy of 400 miles on the clock). Just wanted to know the factory specs, whatever they are.

 

[Norm Peterson]

No need to spend any money or schedule an appointment. Just find (or create) a level area to set up on and a collect a few simple tools.

The last time I had a shop do an alignment on any of my cars was back in the early 1970's. It really is possible to make measurements with sufficient accuracy as long as you have a bit of patience and the willingness to double check yourself.


Norm

 

[Elp_jc]

You still need the factory specs, to see if you fall within them . Again, I don't need to do or check anything on the car now, since it feels perfect. Just want to know factory specs out of curiosity, and to write them down for future use. I'll find them one of these days .

 

[Norm Peterson]

What I'm getting at is that your car's current alignment settings are most likely not precisely sitting at the factory preferred numbers, and that there's a small but finite chance that they're not even within Ford's rather wide allowable range. Since it feels perfect to you now, the current actual settings are about what you want to maintain regardless of what Ford's spec sheet or the alignment machine says they're supposed to be. Only if uneven tire wear results would there be reason to try anything different.


Norm

 

[Bikeman315]

What I'm getting at is that your car's current alignment settings are most likely not precisely sitting at the factory preferred numbers, and that there's a small but finite chance that they're not even within Ford's rather wide allowable range. Since it feels perfect to you now, the current actual settings are about what you want to maintain regardless of what Ford's spec sheet or the alignment machine says they're supposed to be. Only if uneven tire wear results would there be reason to try anything different.
Norm

Norm, JC isn’t looking for any alignment advise. He’s just looking for the numbers. Why? Just because he’s curious.

JC, if you really just want the numbers go here.
https://www.alignmentspecs.com/mm/mustang.asp

 

[OF5.0]

I found the alignment settings for 2016 Mustangs. I see no reason why the Bullitt would be any different than the Performance Package 1 settings.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Norm, JC isn’t looking for any alignment advise. He’s just looking for the numbers. Why? Just because he’s curious.

Understood. I'm just saying that his car drives perfect for him because of what the car's alignment settings actually are, not because of what the factory shop manual or the alignment computer says they're "supposed to be". And that he need not pay anybody to find out what his car's settings actually are.


Norm

 

[Bikeman315]

Understood. I'm just saying that his car drives perfect for him because of what the car's alignment settings actually are, not because of what the factory shop manual or the alignment computer says they're "supposed to be". And that he need not pay anybody to find out what his car's settings actually are.

Norm

Just because he likes the way his car is handling doesn't mean the alignment is OK. I had a 2011 G37X that wore its left front tire to the cord but it felt just fine to me. Obviously it wasn't. Besides he's not looking to change anything. Just wanted the numbers which he now has thanks to OF5.0.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Just because he likes the way his car is handling doesn't mean the alignment is OK.

Yet another reason why he should at least try to measure it up himself. He's already indicated an unwillingness to spring for a professional check.

Best case for JC, he finds out what the numbers are that he likes for settings. Probable worst case, he finds too much difference between the right and left side cambers or too much toe somewhere and then knows it needs attention. Where's the downside here?

I haven't been telling him to change anything, only that he make a few measurements to get some idea about where his car's alignment stands.


FWIW, if you'd even roughly checked the actual settings on your G37X instead of assuming that everything was good, chances are you wouldn't have corded that tire.


Norm

 

[Elp_jc]

Norm, JC isn’t looking for any alignment advise. He’s just looking for the numbers.

True, but Norm's advice is very good. And he's correct.

Since it feels perfect to you now, the current actual settings are about what you want to maintain regardless of what Ford's spec sheet or the alignment machine says they're supposed to be.

You're absolutely correct. And yes, I'd of course like to know what my car has now... but I've had TWO supposedly professional shops mess up 2 cars while checking alignment (a Porsche, and a Nissan GTR). On the Porsche, they scratched the crap out of my bumper and underbelly. And on the GTR, they scrape 2 wheels badly. And yes, both said it was like that already. Bottom line is I just don't trust anybody local to do that right. So I just don't take my cars to any shop unless I absolutely have to. Ha ha.

Thank you for posting the factory specs. The main numbers sound about right, but you guys weren't kidding when you said the tolerance was ridiculous. It's beyond that at 75%. It's -1.00 +/- 0.75 in front, and -1.3 +/- 0.75 at the back. So yes, impossible to rely on -0.25 to -1.75 front and -0.55 to -2.05 at the rear. I bet you can't get beyond those figures even if you wanted to, so basically all cars are aligned properly. Ha ha.

Finally, I might do some research on how to measure my alignment specs, but only if it can be done with a good degree of accuracy, or also it wouldn't matter. By looking at my car, I estimate it to be close to the base numbers. A friend has -2 at the back, and looks a lot more radical than my car. The other critical measurement is TOE, and no way you can eyeball that one, no? And caster is typically non-adjustable on most cars. Is it adjustable on ours? Thanks again for the great advice to all .

 

[Norm Peterson]

Thank you for posting the factory specs. The main numbers sound about right, but you guys weren't kidding when you said the tolerance was ridiculous. It's beyond that at 75%. It's -1.00 +/- 0.75 in front, and -1.3 +/- 0.75 at the back. So yes, impossible to rely on -0.25 to -1.75 front and -0.55 to -2.05 at the rear. I bet you can't get beyond those figures even if you wanted to, so basically all cars are aligned properly. Ha ha.

I would not even assume that much. Camber (front only) on my '08 measured at -1.7° against the factory spec of -0.75° ±0.75° . . . basically on the day I drove it home with only 5 miles on the clock.

Finally, I might do some research on how to measure my alignment specs, but only if it can be done with a good degree of accuracy

With a little patience - and a setup area either known to be flat and level or with at least a known sideways slope - you should be able to get to within about ±0.1° with one of these. Just take a little time centering the bubble; on this gauge from centered to the edge of the bubble touching one of the lines is about 0.3°.

Within 0.1° is more than good enough for any street driving and most track driving.


Well, you sort of can eyeball toe, at least for some cars. It would probably be trickier with IRS, though. But you can set up a pair of parallel strings and actually measure it (there's something called 'Smart Strings' that takes the sting out of getting the strings parallel). Basically, you'd be doing this, plus a little trig. I use thin thread and a scale that reads to 0.01".

Norm

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