Adjustable Camber

[Egparson202]

It sounds like a handy shortcut, but definitely has an element of compromise in it. Good for many, not for all.

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[kz]

I'm questioning that you can accurately adjust the camber at the track, run the car and then set it back without any instrument. They give you the possibility but no way to set it accurately and be repeatable.

I don't think you understand - the fact that you have the possibility (and fairly wide) to adjust vs. basically none on a standard car is its true advantage. Why would that be a knock against HP and why would you not want it ?

Beside - like others wrote - it is not a rocket science. With toe plates you can figure out total toe (or knowing camber / toe relationship just change the camber). And I can guarantee you won't be able to tell the difference betwen -2.2 and -2.3 degrees of camber.

 

[Thumpa]

I’m wondering if there is a happy medium between street/track setup. The excessive wear on the outer half of my Cup 2s after that first track day makes it obvious that some adjustment is needed. Heading into track day 2 I’m on a new set of PS4S. Not going to set it up myself but don’t want to keep running to and from the dealer before and after each track day. So is there a set it and forget it sweet spot somewhere in between?

 

[shogun32]

-2.3 to -2.7 front. -1.3 to -1.7 rear.

 

[Egparson202]

I’m wondering if there is a happy medium between street/track setup. The excessive wear on the outer half of my Cup 2s after that first track day makes it obvious that some adjustment is needed. Heading into track day 2 I’m on a new set of PS4S. Not going to set it up myself but don’t want to keep running to and from the dealer before and after each track day. So is there a set it and forget it sweet spot somewhere in between?

Yes, sort of. As you can imagine, there’s no one size fits all spec in the alignment space. So much is dependent on driver style, tire choice, car, mods, track, etc.

The specs @shogun32 provided are a good starting place assuming stock suspension, street car weight and fresh PS4S. As you select gripper tires and/or work the tires harder by driving closer to the limits, you will want a more aggressive alignment.

The challenge is achieving a balance between on track (performance/wear) and everyday (wear/performance). The common wisdom is that too much negative camber results in excessive wear on the inner shoulder on the street. And that’s true to an extent, but toe settings are also an important factor.

Front:
In my experience, you can have -3 camber (or close to it) to account for body roll, manage the contact patch and optimize wear on track WITHOUT egregious wear on the street IF you also have 0 toe +/- 1/16”.

Rear:
1 degree less than the front with 0 toe or 1/16 toe in. No toe out, please.

In my experience, this alignment is Fast on the track and with good wear qualities and also acceptable on the street. Of course there will be other opinions and experiences.

 

[Zelek]

Yes, sort of. As you can imagine, there’s no one size fits all spec in the alignment space. So much is dependent on driver style, tire choice, car, mods, track, etc.

The specs @shogun32 provided are a good starting place assuming stock suspension, street car weight and fresh PS4S. As you select gripper tires and/or work the tires harder by driving closer to the limits, you will want a more aggressive alignment.

The challenge is achieving a balance between on track (performance/wear) and everyday (wear/performance). The common wisdom is that too much negative camber results in excessive wear on the inner shoulder on the street. And that’s true to an extent, but toe settings are also an important factor.

Front:
In my experience, you can have -3 camber (or close to it) to account for body roll, manage the contact patch and optimize wear on track WITHOUT egregious wear on the street IF you also have 0 toe +/- 1/16”.

Rear:
1 degree less than the front with 0 toe or 1/16 toe in. No toe out, please.

In my experience, this alignment is Fast on the track and with good wear qualities and also acceptable on the street. Of course there will be other opinions and experiences.

Slight toe in on the rear helps with straight line high speed stability. Otherwise, good specs above.

 

[Egparson202]

Slight toe in on the rear helps with straight line high speed stability. Otherwise, good specs above.

Agree. Do you prefer 1/8” toe in on rear?

 

[Zelek]

Agree. Do you prefer 1/8” toe in on rear?

Yes because as you increase speed, your slight toe in actually straightens out going to zero toe where you can create a slight toe out situation at high speeds if you're at zero toe. You will be real stable at 120+ mph.

Front toe I'd keep at zero.

 

[Egparson202]

Yes because as you increase speed, your slight toe in actually straightens out going to zero toe where you can create a slight toe out situation at high speeds if you're at zero toe. You will be real stable at 120+ mph.

Front toe I'd keep at zero.

My justification for rear toe in was heavy braking from high speeds. At my specs I still experience some modest waggle. Maybe I’ll increase the toe in. Thanks.

 

[traxiii]

Anyone have pictures of these HP adjustable camber plates? All of the under hood pics I've seen are of the base/non-HP.

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