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Adjustable Camber Plate Question

Roady68

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After doing my first HPDE in September I am looking at making some changes to my Mach 1. I am trying to understand how the adjustable camber plates work. Once installed, can I adjust camber at the track, then put back to street setting when done? Or is an alignment done after they are moved each time. I am thinking former, as the latter doesn't make sense to me.
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NightmareMoon

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You can adjust it all you want whenever you want but your toe is gonna change as a side effect of your camber change. That might not matter much for the few laps at the track, but when you set it to go back home afterwards, if you dont get it exactly where is was you could get a lot of extra wear on your tires from the street miles with the toe slightly off.

Im not sure how repeatable the adjustments are if you have the OEM camber plates. Some aftermarket plates strive to make the settings very repeatable, with witness marks and having the plates move in very controlled directions.

With unaltered OEM strut tower holes you cant get extreme camber anyway, so my 2c is just set them to an aggressive setting and run that 24/7. The camber sill still not be terribly extreme all things considered, and theres very little downside to running moderate camber on the street as long as your toe settings dialed in. Inside edge tire wear on the street is from toe being off, not really from the amount of camber. If toe is off the tire is constantly scrubbing. If camber is high it still rolls.
 

GTP

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After doing my first HPDE in September I am looking at making some changes to my Mach 1. I am trying to understand how the adjustable camber plates work. Once installed, can I adjust camber at the track, then put back to street setting when done? Or is an alignment done after they are moved each time. I am thinking former, as the latter doesn't make sense to me.
I posted my response to your question in the Road Course section:
Tips for easily adjusting Camber and Toe between street and track settings
 
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Roady68

Roady68

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@GTP Thanks a ton. Exactly what I was interested in.
 

Hifiguy

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I run -3 degrees of camber on the street and the wear is pretty even.

Toe is what kills, not camber. get the plates, max out camber and keep toe at 0 and you’ll never have an issue. Adjusting the strut mounts constantly will throw off your toe if you happen to rotate them as your adjusting, which will do far more wear then camber.
 

WItoTX

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My two cents. Camber doesn't wear tires, toe does. So max the camber, get the toe set, then just leave it.

I know guys who drive across country at max camber with minimal effects, apart from the normal tramlining that can occur.
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