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5 dead starters, suggestions?

MikeR397

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I just killed my fifth starter in 6 years on my 350R. I generally open the hood between track sessions but starters are dying faster and faster. The original one lasted 2.5 years, and then generally 1yr after that, but I just had one replaced two weeks ago and after four track sessions it’s completely dead and won’t start the car (even next day when completely cold). I have an extended warranty and dealer has always been helpful about it, but told them to please do something to shield it from the header heat this time. Any other suggestions?
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MikeR397

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Remove the starter, and push start it/clutch dump. Because racecar
Ya, I’ve been doing this a fair bit including making my wife push me out the driveway in the rain this morning, so need a more eloquent solution.

sure as hell am happy for the bump start manual though, else would have a hell of a lot of 150 mile tows!
 

SheepDog

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Ya, I’ve been doing this a fair bit including making my wife push me out the driveway in the rain this morning, so need a more eloquent solution.

sure as hell am happy for the bump start manual though, else would have a hell of a lot of 150 mile tows!
Maybe you could fabricate an air duct (similar to the brake cooling ducts) that forces ambient air directly to the starter? Or, go full apeshit and relocate one of your washer nozzles to spray cold water on it. Or better yet, have a 90 degree valve and 3rd line/nozzle in place, so that on track days you can switch to "Starter cooling mode" and then otherwise operate the washer nozzles normally during street driving
 
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honeybadger

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Ya, I’ve been doing this a fair bit including making my wife push me out the driveway in the rain this morning, so need a more eloquent solution.

sure as hell am happy for the bump start manual though, else would have a hell of a lot of 150 mile tows!
I didn't get a chance to test it for more than 6 months, but I've been very happy with the Powermaster XS https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9532

The build quality is very high and Powermaster was pretty adamant that it would survive (they also said no heat blanket - those kill starters according to the engineer I talked to).

For reference, I took apart a couple of my starters and they were dying because they were vibrating enough to fray the leads on the motor

IMG_1559(1).webp
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Rob-17GT350

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Since starters are dying from vibration, would be curious how starter life changes from lowering peak engine rpm. If not competing, and only doing regular track events, try shifting at 7k rpm. Not as fun as winding out the engine to 8250 but not fun dealing with dead starters all the time. Plus you’d be surprised, can have just as much fun on track shifting at 7k.

Just an idea!
 
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MikeR397

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That’s interesting. Never thought about the flat plane vibrations killing them vs heat. I will try the aftermarket one next. Free warranty replacements is nice but if this can actually be fixed for $300, I’m in.

i short shift at one local track due to keeping below the noise ordinance on the straight, but that’s it. She’s getting 8250 the rest of the time ;). I’ve got 2 years of warranty left and a z06 on (3yr old deposit) order to hopefully add next year anyway.
 

JetGray_Mach1

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So is this a common issue with GT350's?
 

jmn444

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I killed 2 before putting a new battery in, and haven't killed another since. I also am using the normal gt battery with more cca now. may not be the cause, but correlation convinced me...
 

Egparson202

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Still on original starter at 15K. 50-50 track/transit. Fingers crossed! 😎
 

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After riding vibrators for 40 years you just never know. Some bikes will vibrate every bolt loose some bikes the bolts stay tight.

I imagine the GT350 is the same way. Some cars will have issues from the vibes and some will not.
 

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honeybadger

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After riding vibrators for 40 years you just never know. Some bikes will vibrate every bolt loose some bikes the bolts stay tight.

I imagine the GT350 is the same way. Some cars will have issues from the vibes and some will not.
One thing I've found is clear - there's magic in the assembly from the factory. A completely, untouched factory car will resist vibrations much better. Even following the service manual to the letter won't match it.

My assumption is because of the repeatability of the tooling, unmolested services (and threads) and clean environment. But even building an engine with all new parts in a clean garage is hard to match what the factory does. Part of the reason I always recommend not touching the powertrain in this car.
 

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I didn't get a chance to test it for more than 6 months, but I've been very happy with the Powermaster XS https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9532

The build quality is very high and Powermaster was pretty adamant that it would survive (they also said no heat blanket - those kill starters according to the engineer I talked to).

For reference, I took apart a couple of my starters and they were dying because they were vibrating enough to fray the leads on the motor

IMG_1559(1).JPG
IMG_1558.JPG
FYI, I went with the Powermaster based on this. And killed it. New OEM starter is back on the car now because it's easier to R&R, but I'd love a better solution.
 

honeybadger

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FYI, I went with the Powermaster based on this. And killed it. New OEM starter is back on the car now because it's easier to R&R, but I'd love a better solution.
Wow - how long did it last? have you taken it apart or talked to Powermaster?
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