My pleasure bro .Thanks for posting that great information.
I always prefer to have the engine builder assemble a long block whenever possible .Do you finish the long block engine your self after the short block is built by your machine shop?
To get back on topic (stroker ),now that I done building my spares , I still keep thinking of a stroker .
Starting with cheaper Gen 3 /3.662 bore coyote block, 3.84 stroke crank would made about 5.24 L which would be consistent with the “5.2” thing I have going . Lol
The more expensive 5.2 voodoo/predator block would get you 5.4L with the same crank .
MMR/RPG rotating assembly would cost $2800-$3000.
Total cost of parts depending on block would range from $3700-$5300.
Can any of the resident experts summarize pros and cons of building a stroker again for me ?
I know the 5.2 block is stronger (and bigger ) but any other pros/cons versus using the cheaper coyote block ?
Will a stroker 5.4 feel as torquey as my 2012 GT 500 did down low or is it all a wash once you add boost ?
I know my 2.3 TVS 2012 GT 500 was a lot more fun than 2012 GT with the same blower and similar boost levels so if it’s the same with a stroker 5.4 it would be worth it .
Looking at these pics is better than watching X-videos!!Builder is finishing up my block .
jigiddy jigiddy
wish I could have made it a long block but that’s another $5K
I will just have to swap the heads on my current engine .
Already have the parts to build the stock block(H Tuff rods and waiting on the Mahle pistons ) but still considering that stroker .
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If you can get one ,an 11-12 block is probably the best block to start with since it already has the longer 12 mm Head bolts.The way I see it ( at least on the internet ) you don't need the predator block to build 5.4 L of displacement. A 2013-2014 block is able to do that.
They are getting almost a 5.7L (344ci) engine out of some custom sized Bryant crank with a Gen 1 engine.
Now, if you ask me what are they doing to achieve that, I have no clue, maybe a 4.1" crank or so and who knows what diameter on the pistons.
https://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-coyote-stroker-shortblock-344-cubic-inches/
Ford Racing should be investing in more engine related options and custom parts for guys like us. Sleeved blocks, Taller blocks to build a 6.0L coyote for example, at least 3-5 different sized cranks, more conversions towards older cars, more versions of aluminators, let the customer pick the compression on the pistons, etc,, and etc,, They have been sleeping on that for a long time and should expand their catalog much more every year.If you can get one ,an 11-12 block is probably the best block to start with since it already has the longer 12 mm Head bolts.
Pre 18 blocks are however not going work in a Gen3 coyote since you need 4 knock sensors .
I am looking forward to your build .
I am done building spare motors but if I ever have to build another one it will be a "no- expense build" like yours.
hahahaahahahahah....LOL . I finally admitted I have a problem when I found my self drooling over pictures of the 300M Billet rods you are using in your build.

looking at something else and didn't answer her
...True talk.Ford Racing should be investing in more engine related options and custom parts for guys like us. Sleeved blocks, Taller blocks to build a 6.0L coyote for example, at least 3-5 different sized cranks, more conversions towards older cars, more versions of aluminators, let the customer pick the compression on the pistons, etc,, and etc,, They have been sleeping on that for a long time and should expand their catalog much more every year.
We will see what happens to my build, lots and lots to go. It's for sure making for some sleepless nights so far lol,
Thanks God it's still winter now!
and thanks to everyone helping me out on this forum too.
I just checked some part prices which I do periodically. They are now less than $9. (jr3z-6564). And yes, I know they were $45.The18 GT heads are cheap enough but they changed the design of the followers. They cost $45 a piece and you need 32!!!