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5.4 stroker coyote ?

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olaosunt

olaosunt

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Side by side finished cross plane blocks
I think the 19 up looks like it has more “meat “
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olaosunt

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Thanks for posting that great information.
My pleasure bro .
You might say I am a little obsessed.lol

So far I have had 2 builds with the pre 19 voodoo blocks (one is in the GT350 ) and 2 builds with the 19 up (one is in the Hellion car-Not voodoo pistons but Manley pistons /H tuff rods ).

I am also planning to rebuild a stock pre 19 voodoo engine I snagged for cheap -Rod upgrade /valve springs upgrade .

why so many ?
Well ,other than being obsessed I have 4 cars now and with my luck I like to keep a spare block for each car .
Lol
 

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Do you finish the long block engine your self after the short block is built by your machine shop?
 
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Do you finish the long block engine your self after the short block is built by your machine shop?
I always prefer to have the engine builder assemble a long block whenever possible .

The pre 19 voodoo cross plane build was built and assembled with upgraded springs /head studs into a long block by Billet pro shop.

I sent the voodoo long block out of my GT 350 to RPG racing engine in California to rebuild and reassemble again with upgraded valve springs and head studs .

While I would always prefer to have the builder assemble a long block , funds /time are usually the limiting factor for me (.with some many builds).
I looked into having the latest build assembled into a long block but the additional parts were about $5K .
The18 GT heads are cheap enough but they changed the design of the followers. They cost $45 a piece and you need 32!!!
An option would be to send the long block in the car now to him so he could reassemble with the new short block and build the “spare “ as I already have the parts to rebuild the stock short block.
That could mean more downtime than just having my shop here swap the heads when they pull the motor .
I do think with the builder putting together the long block there is less chance of finger pointing if there are problems .
Here is the long block BPS put together ... as it still sits today and the voodoo long block as I received it back from RPG before putting it back in the car .
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Shipping, especially a ong blocks ,can be a pain though but I invested in a couple of plastic engine crates which help .
I just sold and shipped one of my older builds ,a BES sleeved 5.0 Alluminator long block , to California using one of the crates and it was still a pain .
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Fortunately my current engine builder is only a 4-5 hour drive away .
I was able to fit this long block in the back wife’s explorer and drive it to him .
It came out my KB car and had a MMR 1500 sleeved 5.2 block and stock GT heads

I thought it was lifting the heads at 18 psi but turns out the sleeves had dropped .
He was able to fix the dropped sleeves ,refresh block before I sold it, I think for cheap but it helped finance the recent builds .
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To get back on topic (stroker ),now that I done building my spares , I still keep thinking of a stroker .
Starting with cheaper Gen 3 /3.662 bore coyote block, 3.84 stroke crank would made about 5.24 L which would be consistent with the “5.2” thing I have going . Lol

The more expensive 5.2 voodoo/predator block would get you 5.4L with the same crank .

MMR/RPG rotating assembly would cost $2800-$3000.
Total cost of parts depending on block would range from $3700-$5300.


Can any of the resident experts summarize pros and cons of building a stroker again for me ?

I know the 5.2 block is stronger (and bigger ) but any other pros/cons versus using the cheaper coyote block ?

Will a stroker 5.4 feel as torquey as my 2012 GT 500 did down low or is it all a wash once you add boost ?

I know my 2.3 TVS 2012 GT 500 was a lot more fun than 2012 GT with the same blower and similar boost levels so if it’s the same with a stroker 5.4 it would be worth it .
 

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To get back on topic (stroker ),now that I done building my spares , I still keep thinking of a stroker .
Starting with cheaper Gen 3 /3.662 bore coyote block, 3.84 stroke crank would made about 5.24 L which would be consistent with the “5.2” thing I have going . Lol

The more expensive 5.2 voodoo/predator block would get you 5.4L with the same crank .

MMR/RPG rotating assembly would cost $2800-$3000.
Total cost of parts depending on block would range from $3700-$5300.


Can any of the resident experts summarize pros and cons of building a stroker again for me ?

I know the 5.2 block is stronger (and bigger ) but any other pros/cons versus using the cheaper coyote block ?

Will a stroker 5.4 feel as torquey as my 2012 GT 500 did down low or is it all a wash once you add boost ?

I know my 2.3 TVS 2012 GT 500 was a lot more fun than 2012 GT with the same blower and similar boost levels so if it’s the same with a stroker 5.4 it would be worth it .

The way I see it ( at least on the internet ) you don't need the predator block to build 5.4 L of displacement. A 2013-2014 block is able to do that.
They are getting almost a 5.7L (344ci) engine out of some custom sized Bryant crank with a Gen 1 engine.
Now, if you ask me what are they doing to achieve that, I have no clue, maybe a 4.1" crank or so and who knows what diameter on the pistons.

https://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-coyote-stroker-shortblock-344-cubic-inches/
 

Tiago G.

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Builder is finishing up my block .

jigiddy jigiddy

wish I could have made it a long block but that’s another $5K
I will just have to swap the heads on my current engine .
Already have the parts to build the stock block(H Tuff rods and waiting on the Mahle pistons ) but still considering that stroker .
Lol
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Looking at these pics is better than watching X-videos!!
 
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The way I see it ( at least on the internet ) you don't need the predator block to build 5.4 L of displacement. A 2013-2014 block is able to do that.
They are getting almost a 5.7L (344ci) engine out of some custom sized Bryant crank with a Gen 1 engine.
Now, if you ask me what are they doing to achieve that, I have no clue, maybe a 4.1" crank or so and who knows what diameter on the pistons.

https://www.jpcracing.com/rgr-coyote-stroker-shortblock-344-cubic-inches/
If you can get one ,an 11-12 block is probably the best block to start with since it already has the longer 12 mm Head bolts.

Pre 18 blocks are however not going work in a Gen3 coyote since you need 4 knock sensors .

I am looking forward to your build .

I am done building spare motors but if I ever have to build another one it will be a "no- expense build" like yours.
 

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Looking at these pics is better than watching X-videos!!

LOL . I finally admitted I have a problem when I found my self drooling over pictures of the 300M Billet rods you are using in your build.
 

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If you can get one ,an 11-12 block is probably the best block to start with since it already has the longer 12 mm Head bolts.

Pre 18 blocks are however not going work in a Gen3 coyote since you need 4 knock sensors .

I am looking forward to your build .

I am done building spare motors but if I ever have to build another one it will be a "no- expense build" like yours.
Ford Racing should be investing in more engine related options and custom parts for guys like us. Sleeved blocks, Taller blocks to build a 6.0L coyote for example, at least 3-5 different sized cranks, more conversions towards older cars, more versions of aluminators, let the customer pick the compression on the pistons, etc,, and etc,, They have been sleeping on that for a long time and should expand their catalog much more every year.

We will see what happens to my build, lots and lots to go. It's for sure making for some sleepless nights so far lol,
Thanks God it's still winter now!
and thanks to everyone helping me out on this forum too.
 

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LOL . I finally admitted I have a problem when I found my self drooling over pictures of the 300M Billet rods you are using in your build.
hahahaahahahahah....:cwl:

My wife came by and asked what the hell was that? I was too distracted :inlove: looking at something else and didn't answer her :thumbsdown:...
 
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Ford Racing should be investing in more engine related options and custom parts for guys like us. Sleeved blocks, Taller blocks to build a 6.0L coyote for example, at least 3-5 different sized cranks, more conversions towards older cars, more versions of aluminators, let the customer pick the compression on the pistons, etc,, and etc,, They have been sleeping on that for a long time and should expand their catalog much more every year.

We will see what happens to my build, lots and lots to go. It's for sure making for some sleepless nights so far lol,
Thanks God it's still winter now!
and thanks to everyone helping me out on this forum too.
True talk.
I was excited about the werewolf block as an option until they mentioned the proposed price.
lol
Sleeving a Gen 2 predator may be the next best thing.
 

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The18 GT heads are cheap enough but they changed the design of the followers. They cost $45 a piece and you need 32!!!
I just checked some part prices which I do periodically. They are now less than $9. (jr3z-6564). And yes, I know they were $45.
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