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2019 B&O Subwoofer Install Help?

Hellbound42101

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I wouldn’t make that assumption about the stock amp. The diagram link above shows the connections to the dsp are separate but I don’t think we know what the electronics are doing. For a separate amp this is a very helpful article:) Also I don’t think you’ll be able to connect a dual 2ohm sub to the factory system. Probably not stable.

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-u...ice-Coil-DVC-Wiring-Tutorial?mobile_site=true

The B&O sub is a dual 8 ohm sub. Not wanting to assume anything but that would be a very unorthodox sub woofer setup if it was running 8 ohm stereo then again i would not put it past oem to do something like that. The comp R i put in is wired at 4 ohm and currently using one side of B&O amp. It works no shutting down and louder than b&o sub, but wanted to know if better way that would utilize all of amp?
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nathanks

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The B&O sub is a dual 8 ohm sub. Not wanting to assume anything but that would be a very unorthodox sub woofer setup if it was running 8 ohm stereo then again i would not put it past oem to do something like that. The comp R i put in is wired at 4 ohm and currently using one side of B&O amp. It works no shutting down and louder than b&o sub, but wanted to know if better way that would utilize all of amp?
Your B&O sub must be different from the one I pulled out. Mine measured 4 Ohm at each coil.
 

gpierce

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The B&O sub is a dual 8 ohm sub. Not wanting to assume anything but that would be a very unorthodox sub woofer setup if it was running 8 ohm stereo then again i would not put it past oem to do something like that. The comp R i put in is wired at 4 ohm and currently using one side of B&O amp. It works no shutting down and louder than b&o sub, but wanted to know if better way that would utilize all of amp?
As others have said, the factory sub is dual 4 ohm not dual 8. I replaced it directly with a dual 4 ohm.
 

gpierce

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I'm still not happy with the bass after installing the JL Audio Subwoofer. I ordered a Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 mono amplifier and amp wiring kit. I'll pull the signal from the subwoofer wires that are already in the rear and see how the JL Audio subwoofer in the stock enclosure sounds with 300 watts at 4 ohms thrown at it, vs the 40-50 stock watts. If it does as I need it to do, I will leave it at that for the subwoofer
Have you tried this amp yet? I was thinking of doing the same with that same amp.
 

m3incorp

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This amp is great. It's amazing how such a small amp puts out so much good power. Mine is actually putting out well over the rated 500 watts. I installed a Kicker 12" Comp R loaded enclosure and it sounded so good that I didn't even use the JL Audio subwoofer that I had put in the stock B&O enclosure. So, I have a brand new JL Audio Subwoofer that I have not used sitting in the stock location.

Have you tried this amp yet? I was thinking of doing the same with that same amp.
 

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This amp is great. It's amazing how such a small amp puts out so much good power. Mine is actually putting out well over the rated 500 watts. I installed a Kicker 12" Comp R loaded enclosure and it sounded so good that I didn't even use the JL Audio subwoofer that I had put in the stock B&O enclosure. So, I have a brand new JL Audio Subwoofer that I have not used sitting in the stock location.
Since that RF amp sums the stereo inputs to mono, do you plan to use a mono VC sub or DVC? How will you wire the DVC?
 

m3incorp

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I use this subwoofer enclosure. It presents a 2 ohm load to the amplifier.
Kicker Comp R Subwoofer.jpg
 

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When installing a non-OEM 4 ohm DVC subwoofer, does it make a difference which pair of factory wires connect to the which side of the sub as long as the polarity is correct?
 

m3incorp

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I will try to find a pic of which wires you should use.

When installing a non-OEM 4 ohm DVC subwoofer, does it make a difference which pair of factory wires connect to the which side of the sub as long as the polarity is correct?
 

Assh

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I will try to find a pic of which wires you should use.
I have the B&O system, so I know the wires that connect to the sub. Curious as to which pair should connect to which terminal on the aftermarket sub.
 

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nathanks

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Just a heads up for anyone reading through this thread....
Installing an aftermarket sub in the stock enclosure and connecting it to the stock amp is a complete waste of time and money. I went through the process of installing the Dayton DVC sub in the stock enclosure and the result was so far less than stellar, I have no words for it.
 

Assh

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Just a heads up for anyone reading through this thread....
Installing an aftermarket sub in the stock enclosure and connecting it to the stock amp is a complete waste of time and money. I went through the process of installing the Dayton DVC sub in the stock enclosure and the result was so far less than stellar, I have no words for it.
Curious, most everyone else has had a positive response. I wonder if your experience is due to subwoofer choice?
 

m3incorp

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I knew what you meant. The pic I was referring to is the "two pairs" of stock wires you will need to twist together to wire to your single connection on your aftermarket subwoofer if it only has one pair of wiring (2 wires). As you know the stock subwoofer uses "two pairs" of wires, ie 4 wires.

I have the B&O system, so I know the wires that connect to the sub. Curious as to which pair should connect to which terminal on the aftermarket sub.
 

m3incorp

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I wouldn't sum it up like NaThanks but the result is not earth-shattering. There is only so much bass the stock box can put out. I used the JL Audio Subwoofer, which is known to be a great sub in a good enclosure. While it did get rid of the muddiness from the stock sub, it is still not the hard hitting bass some would have you to believe. If you are just looking for a slightly tighter bass and less muddiness, then yep it's ok to upgrade....otherwise, if you want bass you can feel, it takes an aftermarket sub enclosure with the proper amount of airspace to get the job done.

Curious, most everyone else has had a positive response. I wonder if your experience is due to subwoofer choice?
 

m3incorp

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Black and Purple wires go to the negative input on aftermarket sub.
Yellow and Green wires positive input on aftermarket sub.


I have the B&O system, so I know the wires that connect to the sub. Curious as to which pair should connect to which terminal on the aftermarket sub.
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